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Tarija

Friday, June 22nd, 2007

Tarija is the Bolivian wine making capital, hence why we were visiting, and it was a really lovely city. Clean and sunny with leafy plazas and nice cafe´s all around, it was more like Argentina than what we had been expecing from Bolivia. We had arrived on a Saturday afternoon so pretty mich everything was closed, but we managed to arrange a tour of the bodegas for the Monday afternoon and then spent the rest of the weekend just relaxing and watching the world go by and exploring the city.

Turns out the town was holding a conference for all of the South American leaders the following tuesday so the town was filled with preparations and activities. On the monday morning there was a exhibition in the main square with dancers from every area of Bolivia giving colourful displays, it was wonderful to watch.

In the evenings there were some lovely restaurants around the main square to enjoy and we sampled the local wine and beer (both very nice actually) together with some great Mexican food – very traditional. There was also a suprisingly good museum run by the university, with a huge selection of dinasaur bones found in the area, under someones patio. Suprising but really interesting.

Monday afternoon then, we took a tour to four of the local Bodegas. The tours were in Spanish but we managed to understand most things and there was the all important tastings. At the firs place we tried Singani, the Bolivian spirit mafde from distilled white wine. We tried it neat from the barrel and it nearly killed us, think it is much better served with lemon and soda like a pisco sour.

The last Bogeda we visited was a small artisanal place and I think they were rather fond of sampling their own wares, the place was a mad house and I´m not sure they were the finest wines, but it was definately the most entertaining bodega we have visited. We had no idea what we were trying by the end of things but the driver joined in and we all had a great time!

Back in Tarija we had to dash to catch our overnight bus to Tupiza at 7:00, we nearly missed it too, not beacuse we were´t there in time but because we refused to believe the stinky, rickety thing in front of us was our bus. But is was, and what followed was 10 hours of freezing stinking horribleness, only broken by a 30 minute vreak in the middle of nowhere for “dinner”. We didn´t eat but sat and shiverred on the bus until 4am when we arrived in Tupiza. Note, Bolivian busses are cold and have no lighting so are therefore dull too cos you can´t read. They also smell really bad and are prone to break down. Oh, where was my taxi toting Bishop that night!

The road to Catchi

Friday, June 22nd, 2007

Ill as I was (and it was touch and go there for a while but I´m a fighter!) I roused myself at 6:30 the next morning to climb into the back of our 4×4 to start the trip to Catchi and Cafayate, just south of Salta.

Catchi and Cafayate themselves are small, quaint towns which are nice to visit but not particularly spectacular in themselves. What is spectacular however is the roads between them. The one lane two direction road to Catchi climbs terrifying blind hairpin bends over the moutains to a height of around 3800 meters before decending slightly to Catchi. It is beautiful and apparently taking the bus there is a sure fire way to quiet upset children – well Tucky was quiet.

After lunch in Catchi (for those not feeling too ill but still fighting bravely on) we set off on the fat more difficult road to Cafayate. This road is part of Ruta 40, the most famous highway in Argentina which runs more or less north to south of the country but it virtually unpassable in places. This was one of those places. The road was narrow and rocky and steep and blind and dusty, but stunning and whilst we felt rattled like bingo balls when we arrived in Cafayate after 5 hours on the road it was worth it. One of the last stops was a lunar like valley with strange spikey rock formations streatching as far as we could see, it was like being on another planet.

When we arrived in Cafayate we (Tucky and I and a young American couple also on the tour) went to visit one of the areas Bodegas, Nanni, as Cafayate is the wine making region of the north. It was one of the quickets tours ever but there was a tasting at the end which lets face it was really all we wanted.

We were installed that night in a B&B belonging to the drivers friend, which was fine alsthough I´m not sure we would really have had any other options and breakfast was actually provided by the service station accross the road! Anyway, feeling better risked dinner that night and explored the little town, not much to see but pleasant enough and in a lovely setting.

The next morning we headed to Quilmes, site of some pre-inca ruins. The Quilmes people had there land repossessed by the Spanish who wanted the minerals and valuable metals available for mining there. The Quilmes were then moved accross the country and made to resettle in Buenos Aires, only 500 out of an orriginal 3000 people survived the journey. There is now an area in Buenos Aires called Quilmes and it is where Argentinas more famous beer is brewed. The ruins were interesting enough but there were reconstructions on the original lines and it was hard to get that feeling of ancient wonder, not least because someone had thought it a good idea to build a hotel there too?! it was only 45 minutes outside Cafayate. So an hour there was enough.

Back to Cafayate for lunch then we started the last bit of our triangle, the road from Cafayate back to Salta.

The road was paved this time so progress was much quicker and smoother and on the way we stopped to visit a number of strange natural rock formations, like a rock that changed from a monkey to a man like an example of Darwins evolutionary theory and a huge cavern used in the summer as an orchestra concert hall.

We arrived back in Salta at about 5:00pm absolutely knackerred but it had been a really good trip and fortunately I was feeling fully better now and able to eat chocolate cake on the way home.

That night the four of us went to a restaurant called Jack and enjoyed the largest and one of the nices steaks we had had in Argentina. This was an important last steak supper as that night we were heading north to Bolivia.