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Friday, June 1st, 2007



Cafe Tortoni, Buenos Aires

Originally uploaded by kathsmee.

From Rosario we went back to Buenos Aires for a few days before our flight down to Ushuaia. Buenos Aires was as busy as when we last left it, but with oh so much more rain. It didn’t stop raining for all three days we were there and we were drenched and to be honest a little miserable, so we shopped! Well we needed lots of warm things for down south, things that we had left in Guernsey intending to have them posted out, only now there wasn’t enough time so sadly shopping was our only option. On this subject I would just like to inform you all of the sad fate of Guernsey Ted. Little Tedster was posted out to us by my Mum only a week or so after we left home when we realised we really needed a mascot. Well, Ted was posted to the held mail department in Buenos Aires main post office at the start of March and unfortunately that is all we know of him. Despite having been back to Buenos Aires twice to try to collect him, he has yet to turn up and our guess is that he is now keeping some postal workers child war at night – well that’s what we like to think. So, if you are reading this international Ted, drop us a line let us know you´re safe.

Anyway, back to the real world and real rain in BA. During our time here we were staying with a wonderful American lady who’s daughter we had met at our homestay in Mendoza. She was great, she put us up for three days for just the cost of dinner and a bit of light housework in our room (and the opportunity to call us the British help) and she regaled us with great stories and information about the time she was living in Ecuador, giving us lots of useful information for when we get there. She also very kindly gave us the names of some other friends of hers in South America who we are very much looking forward to meeting on our way round. It really is fabulous to have someone to meet up who lives in the place you are visiting; you get to see a real and interesting side of a place, not just the gringo train and Lonely Planet highlights. So, during our next three days in BA we say all, or at least most of the sights we didn’t manage to see last time. Including Café Tortoni where all of the Argentine academics, artists and lose political cannons used to meet, it was fabulous, a richly decorated sumptuous little place just tucked away in a corner where you’d never find it if you weren’t looking – just like Narnia. The city really did grow on us both considerably more this time round and we hope we’ll be able to come back again and see it in the sunshine – and also visit the strange religious theme park where Christ is resurrected every half hour, which unfortunately we didn’t manage to get to yet! Maybe we’ll even work there one day (in BA not at the resurrection) since we are finally getting job offers and responses to emails from couple of months ago.

“Whats new, Buenos Aires…”

Friday, March 16th, 2007

On Sunday night, we took a 17 hour night bus (our longest yet) down to Buenos Aires from Puerto Iguaçu. I tell you it was hell. The seats, the size of flight club class, reclined almost horizontal, they showed two films in English, we were served a steak and red wine dinner, with coffee and champagne to follow. It was a nightmare – thoroughly enjoyed it!

Arrived in BA early on Monday morning and the city was chaotic. It was strange to arrive in a city of sky scrapers and bill boards and traffic after being in such tranquil places for the last two weeks. Hostel was ok, quite central, but a bit busy for us, we like a quiet life we’ve discovered, and our own toilet! We also had a bit of an ant infestation and I am sorry to report that a pair of my shoes had to be sacrificed to the cause for some reason the ants had decided to make them their command headquarters and there was no winning back the territory.

The great thing was tho that quite by accident we bumped into our friends from Paraty in the lobby at the hostel as they were checking in, so we’ve spent a great few days hanging out with them.

So, we’ve been in BA for four days, not doing much just wandering round the city and working out if we like it enough to stay and work here. We have sent of a load of job applications and have a few interviews next week, but as it has rained here quite torrentially and has been consistently cloudy, the jury is still out on whether we’ll take root here.

Annoyingly since we have arrived I cannot get the Evita sound track out of my head it is infuriating me and Tucky is ready gaffa tape my mouth closed – although I think this might just be the straw that broke camels back on that threat! We have been holding out on visiting her museum but went to visit her tomb yesterday in the enormous city cemetery. Weird place, like a miniature city full of the most elaborate tombs and monuments, I’ve never seen anything like it.

Have seen a bit of the night life here, we went to an amazing Tango show on Tuesday night which was so much fun and the dancers were incredible – even Paul wants to learn so we’ll see how that goes! Went to a club last night which was ok, but I guess could have been any club anywhere in the world. I am concerned that travel in prematurely aging me into wanting a quiet life with a hammock and a good book!

That kind of the vibe we are getting from BA at the moment, it’s an interesting place with lots going on, lots of history, beautiful architecture, good food! But at the same time it is big city, the same as all big cities. Plus we are like mosquito pin cushions here, it’s not even fully any more, you can’t move for the things!! So we’ll wait and see if it grows on us – the city that is, not strange hybrid mosquito wings.

We’re off to Mendoza this weekend for the end of the wine harvest to spend some time wine tasting and exploring the mountains and thermal springs, I can’t wait. Least of all for the overnight bus journey tonight!!

Hope you’re all ok, thanks for your e-mails it’s really lovely to hear from you all. Sending love and sparkles, and I’ll post some photos soon. xx