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Lazy days in Baños

Saturday, July 7th, 2007

Well, lazy days for me at least. The following morning Tucky got up early and went White water rafting. Still feeling shitty and full of cold, I spent the morning in bed watching trash cable TV, I then treated myself to coffee and cake in the sun in a cafe on the main square, albeit run by some crazy Danish lady who only seemed able to repeat her spiel about whole meal bread sandwiches and nothing else. By 2pm I was exhausted, as you can imagine, and so retired to the hotel again for Tucky to get back at 2:30pm. As it happened he didn’t get back until about 4pm, so I had a little sleep.

Once he returned, happy and sore and $30 lighter thanks to some light fingered staff member, we hit the thermal baths. The baths are in a lovely setting, open air and just beneath the waterfall so that you can watch it gushing cold water into the showers (for crazy people) as you relax in the warm waters nearby. There were about five pools on two levels of varying temperatures, including the very hot and very cold plunge pools, which Tucky braved and I didn’t – I didn’t want to risk a relapse you understand. That said, those steam slightly muddy colored waters did seem to have some healing effect on me and I felt much better when we emerged slightly pink and shiny an hour later. Just time for a quick bite to eat in the local gringo establishment (There is a great choice between Case Hood, Cafe Hood or Cafe Good, we were in the latter on this occasion) before our exciting departure at 9pm on the night time volcano tour.

We were bundled into the back of an open sided truck thing, together with a group of Irish girls Tucky had been rafting with, and headed off up the mountain, about 10 minutes out of town we were aloud to scramble up onto the roof and risk the low hanging electricity cables for a more adventurous trip… which of course we did. The next two hours took us to a viewing point half way up the mountain to see the volcano, combined with a stop for some kind of mulled sugar drink with, once again, that 96% alcohol stuff added for a kick! Unfortunately the clouds meant that we couldn’t really see anything but the ride up and down the mountain itself was so hilarious it was worth it. Once back in Baños our guide took us to his local for a bracing round of flaming shots and a few rounds of table-football. All in all a very good evening, and its surprising how much better you can feel after some flaming beverages. We crept back to the hotel at about 1am and had to ring a ridiculously loud bell to be let back in, sure everyone loved us!

The next morning it was another lazy start and just a day chilling around town before taking the 18:30 bus back to Quito. Fortunately this was less dramatic than the journey in as the road opens each day after 6pm to allow traffic through over night. We arrived in Quito by about 10:00pm and checked into the same hostel as before to reclaim our luggage and crashed.

Our latest entertaining journey…

Monday, July 2nd, 2007

Yesterday morning we left Quito and headed down south to Baños, to enjoy the relaxing thermal springs and some fresh air. The bus journey down there takes about 3.5hours under normal circumstances but yesterday that was not to be….

We managed to take the bus about three hours south, to a town called Ambato where we were told we had to change busses. We duly found a taxi driver to take us to the other bus station (obviously there would be two at opposite ends of town) to catch the connecting bus to Baños. The driver said of course, and only when we arrived at the terminal ($2 later) decided to tell us that actually there were no busses and that we would have to conveniently take a taxi. Resignedly, Tucky and I and another English girl we were travelling with agreed to take his overpriced taxi for ($15). The reason there were no busses, and we had been forewarned of this in Quit) was that last week there had been landslides and sections of the road to Baños had collapsed, as such the road was shut for about 100m in the middle.

So, we took a taxi as far as the road block, where there was a line of waiting trucks and busses about 200m long, together with a rather posh American couple wondering how to get accross with all of their designer luggage. They might well have wonderred as the next leg of the journey required a trip up a dirt track of a hill in the back of the worlds most dangerously unreliable taxi, and then a 25 minute scramble over fields and down the other side of the hill, down what was visrtually a virtical path. Since we knew this scramble was more than likely, Tucky and I had left most of our stuff in Quito and brought just small day sacks, unfortunately the poor girl with us had her massive 80lt rucksack, pretty hairy down such a steep slope. Still there were plenty of enterprising ecuadorians available to sell you water and snacks or offer to carry your bag along the way!

Finally making it down the other side (and dreading the day we would have to wakl back up the killer of a hill) we jumped into the back of a truck to go the last 5km to Baños, acting as gringo entertainment for all of the locals in the truck of course.

We eventually arrive din Baños at about 3pm, knackered but strangely satisfied with the journey. We checked into the Hostel D´Anthony, a fabulous recomendation from the Ozzy couple in Quito, it has the biggest most comfortable bed I´ve seen since Casa de Alba in Ushuaia. Although there are some oddly enourmous windows giving out only the coridor to contend with. Not that it matters, the plkace is pretty empty, as is the whole of Baños, since people can´t get in. Its the height of tourist season here and it is dead, only a few back packers that don´t mind the scramble.

That evening we went to watch Ecuador get thrashed by Mexico in the Copa America, things are not looking good for them, and then very unfaithfully went and ate in the local Mexican, entertaining ourselves with the terribly Brits Abroad family on the table next to us – its a good job Tucky and I are so superior!

All in all we were in bed by 8:45pm, like I said, we are total loosers at the moment, but hell that bed was comfy!