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Tarija

Friday, June 22nd, 2007

Tarija is the Bolivian wine making capital, hence why we were visiting, and it was a really lovely city. Clean and sunny with leafy plazas and nice cafe´s all around, it was more like Argentina than what we had been expecing from Bolivia. We had arrived on a Saturday afternoon so pretty mich everything was closed, but we managed to arrange a tour of the bodegas for the Monday afternoon and then spent the rest of the weekend just relaxing and watching the world go by and exploring the city.

Turns out the town was holding a conference for all of the South American leaders the following tuesday so the town was filled with preparations and activities. On the monday morning there was a exhibition in the main square with dancers from every area of Bolivia giving colourful displays, it was wonderful to watch.

In the evenings there were some lovely restaurants around the main square to enjoy and we sampled the local wine and beer (both very nice actually) together with some great Mexican food – very traditional. There was also a suprisingly good museum run by the university, with a huge selection of dinasaur bones found in the area, under someones patio. Suprising but really interesting.

Monday afternoon then, we took a tour to four of the local Bodegas. The tours were in Spanish but we managed to understand most things and there was the all important tastings. At the firs place we tried Singani, the Bolivian spirit mafde from distilled white wine. We tried it neat from the barrel and it nearly killed us, think it is much better served with lemon and soda like a pisco sour.

The last Bogeda we visited was a small artisanal place and I think they were rather fond of sampling their own wares, the place was a mad house and I´m not sure they were the finest wines, but it was definately the most entertaining bodega we have visited. We had no idea what we were trying by the end of things but the driver joined in and we all had a great time!

Back in Tarija we had to dash to catch our overnight bus to Tupiza at 7:00, we nearly missed it too, not beacuse we were´t there in time but because we refused to believe the stinky, rickety thing in front of us was our bus. But is was, and what followed was 10 hours of freezing stinking horribleness, only broken by a 30 minute vreak in the middle of nowhere for “dinner”. We didn´t eat but sat and shiverred on the bus until 4am when we arrived in Tupiza. Note, Bolivian busses are cold and have no lighting so are therefore dull too cos you can´t read. They also smell really bad and are prone to break down. Oh, where was my taxi toting Bishop that night!

A blessed journey

Friday, June 22nd, 2007

At 1:00am on Saturday 9th June we took a four hour bus from Salta to Aguas Blancas on the Argentine side of the Bolivian border, we were turfed out of the bus at 5am and told to walk accross the border to Bolivia. Blear eyed and confused we must have looked a bit pathetic not knowing where to go, because a very nice smartly dressed couple put us in there taxi and drove us to the border and baby sat us accross the crossing to Bolivia where the time because an even more ungodly 4am!

Border formalities complete we set about waiting for the seven hour bus which would take us to Tarija, the bus that would not arrive until early afternoon that is. Fortunately our smartly dressed friends took pity on us again and asked if we would like to share their taxi to Tarija, for a total of 100Bolivianos (about 6.50GBP) and taking only three hours – well we umed and ahed, we had been looking forward to that bus?!

Safely esconced in the Taxi and chatting away in pigeon spanish the gentleman asked where we were from and when we said England he suggest in a brad American accent that perhaps it would be better if we spoke English then. Oh how we laughed! Turns out he was the Anglican Bishop for Argentina and he and his companion had been at a convention of Bishops in Salta and were heading home to Cochabamaba. It was an interesting journey, they were ever so nice and regailed us with stories of Bishop kareoke (the Bishop of Argentina used to be in a band you know) as the taxi driver changed the gas cylinders on the car.

Yes, gas cylinders. The cars use natural gas beacause its cheaper but not as powerful, so they also use petrol to keep the engine runnine smoothly and when they need more power. This involves the driver physically stopping, unhooking the fuel line from the engine and reattaching it to the gas cylinder in the boot. The whole process is made all the more strange by the car itself which is right hand drive, with just the steering wheel moved to the left, so the driver spends the whole journey slightly twitching to the right to read the dials, a lot of cricked necks in this country.

Anyway, we eventually arrived in Tarija at about 9:00am, a good 13 hours earlier than expected thanks to our new friends, so we thanksed them profusely and then slept. All day.