The world according to K

The photies show some highlights on the way up to Everest Base Camp- including some of the gang I trekked with, a stoma, view I had of Everest, a typical lodge stop – which has a pair of yaks antlers outside and gives the height, plus a view of MONKEY strapped to my rucksack , with the sun in the background.

I’ve checked through previous entries and I must aplogise for the spelling errors-only so much time on the internet so you rush – –

So where was I – 3d May – at 5.30 am – out by 7am we were heading alongside the valley of IMJA KHOLA – the River. Steep sides but beautiful clear day with views of Ama Dablam ( another climbers dream – high and technically very difficult) and Amphu Gyabjen another souring peak- all snow capped and glorious to see ). At 4000m we stoped at Big Chorten and had alunch at village called Pangboche. On the way there were yaks, mountain goats perched on sides, swooping eagles and a huge vulture that kept flying low over us ( that said something)

Sherpa stew had become my stalwart meal alongside the “Karen Special” drimk. Sherpa Stew is a thick broth full of fresh veg – well filling and kept me going – that and plenty of Bounty Bars . I never eat chocolate at home but I was averaging 2 a day – not ate any since .. funny or what . At that height if I ran out of any choc bars they were available at 200r a bar ( thats alot about 1 pound 20).

DINGBOCHE
After lunch we walked up to 4410m- steep steep steep.
We stayed at Dingboche which was lovely and Annie and I decided to walk up to a Stoma another 100 m higher for a view and also to get more acclimitised. It was a lovely moment – views – peace – prayer flags on the stoma and a man herding his Yaks. Great stuff.

We stayed 2 nights at Dingboche to acclimitize. Next our acclimitisation walk took us to a dried glacier lake ( Duono glacier). It was steep as in straight up ..the hardest climb so far- and at times with the breathlessness – and steep incline I got truly frightened. It was so exhausting – one slow step at a time. We only climbed to 4800 metres ( just approx 400, ) but it was so difficult with the altitude- and it warnded us about what was to come.

The lake is dry – and no vegetation – only bushes mainly Juniper Bushes – the smell of which give you a severe headache. We were now above the tree line and in the clouds so it was Tundra like desert up there.
Opposite the lake at the top was an awesome view of the mountain Ama Dablam – and it looked terrifying and unbelievable that any one would want to climb this thing.

Trudy and Simon ( in our group)- their parents neighbours had lost a son on this mountain in November. It was an avalanche that took him and two others ( Swiss) plus guides. He had left a diary describing how excited he was to be climbing it and describing the walk up to the mountain ( which we had already followed so far ) .Trudy and Simon had told us about this earlier and said the parents were out at the same time – trekking the same way and hoping to recover his body. As yet there was no sign that any bodies had been found. It was so sad and tragic and made the beauty of the moutain appear ominous.

Beside the lake Trudy and Simon built a stone cairn in honour of his memory. It is a remote – peaceful and yet a poignant spot with a view of the mountain straight ahead. I thought it was a very fitting. I hope his parents get to see it.

That night in the tea house – I hung my knickers up to dry in the main Dining room- to great interest from sherpas – guides – and the group. I had to do this – I was desperate to wear something clean.

5th May – altitude definitely started to affect people- sleeplessnes – sluggishness – breathlessness and headaches all part of the course.At this time I was averaging 4 litres of water a day at least – to stop dehydration. The trick is to follow the person in front -their footsteps-try to keep pace – stepping where their boots have been in front of you and breathe through the nose – very very slowly.We were now averaging 2km an hour . Straight Uphill.

The terrain at this height is truly like desert- dry river beds -sand under foot- huge boulders – hardly any vegetation ( bar moss) and you are amongst or above the clouds.

At one point just after a lunch at Thokla- we climbed a very steep side ( took an hour). At the top it naturally flattened out – and here at the top as far as the eye could see- were stone cairns – prayer flags flapping – all memorials to people who had died climbing Everest. It was a sombre sight.
I was looking at the memorial of a sherpa who died falling into a cravasse after climbing Everest 11 times- another of Scott Fischer who I had just read about. This particular book is fantastic and it describes the disaster of 1996 – when stupid commerciallity took over the climbing of Everest and where 12 people including Rob Hall , Scott Fischer lost their lives. It is called “Into Thin Air ” by Jon Krakauer- and well worth the read. He was on the climb.

These memorials and cairns reminded us how deadly the mountain is and can be. It was very thought provoking and served as an ominous reminder as to how it was life or death for climbers.
Apparently the stats say 1 in 9 who reach summit of Everrst will probably die. Its not the climb up the ‘hill ” as they say – but the getting down. You only have one window of opportunity (weather permitting) and learning to say No or Give up to go back could save your life . Says it all.

Earlier at lunch we had a met a guy from Chezch- who was walking back up to Base camp. He was with the Chezch expedition – and they had been refused entry to climb on the Tibet side so the came to Nepal. Apparently the Mayor from Prague was with them.

They had managed to climb to base camp 2 on the Everest ( only 4 camps to summit) but he went down with a severe tooth abcess and had to come back down. So off he had trekked to Namche Bazar ( where we had stopped earlier to acclimitise) got the tooth fixed and was on his way back up . We all thought something or someone was trying to tell him not to go on..however…I must check out on line how the Chezch group – did they make it.

The cairns the stats- the liklihood of dying on the mountain – does it put climbers off ? Nothing changes it seems – we were heading to Base canp where at that time 17 expeditions were at base camp waiting to go to the summit. ( And this remember is only the Nepal side not Tibet)
If I can I will upload the video clip I made of this memorial sight – it is amazing. Watch this space not yet mastered uploading the vclips.

LOBUCHE

We walked on to LOBUCHE at 4910 metres, and were thrilled to discover a Western Toilet. However the rooms were tiny and the beds slanted to one side – so you thought were sleeping on an incline in fact what am I saying -you were sleeping on an incline .

We reached this tea house at 2.30pm after walking 4-5 hours. We were in bed by 8.30pm knackered but snug in sleeping bags. The next day we were up at 5.30am to make the last trekk and push to Base Camp. Not sure if anyone sleptthe night before. At 4910 metres ( thats 16 000ft) we were at 50% oxygen. As I said not sure if anyone slept.

Problems uploading images today so will add on when I can

Trek time begins at getting up at 6.30 am breakfast – then out. Our trek was UPHILL 800 mtres climb to Namche Bazar. Hard hard hard going. I realised quite quickly that I needed the walking sticks that everyone less bar a few of the group were using them . Steps uphill – then steep inclines that you trek up by literally placing one foot in front of the other and NOT looking up to see how far you have gone otherwsie you become despondent.Breathlessness started to kick in but we had plenty of rest times at each say 100 or metres or so climb ( could have been less).

I felt for one in the group Trudy who was doing this uphill nightmare- really not well with the dreaded stomach upset – frequent dashes to a nearby toilet ( if any or bush )and supplies of Immodium were given to her. It must have been awful for her and I really admired the fact that she never moaned- just cracked on. Nice un Trudy.

800metres up we reached Namche Bazar. This is the last main stop before Everest Base camp and it is great place. You can get supplies and most things for twice the price – the higher you go the more expensive it gets- inc food.
Here I had my last “hot shower” not really hot but tepid.I stocked up on chocolate bars- Bounty’s and Mars – wet wipes and toilet paper. The tea house main room was warm and comfortable with the stove going – but the bedrooms were freezing. Thank God for my sleeping bag , thermals and beanie to wear in bed. The meal I had was potato fry – everything here is fried- but I introduced everyone to the famous hot honey lemon and ginger drink which was requested from then on by all and sundry – as “Karen’s Special”. No alcohol on way up as it doesnt mix very well with altitude. I only had a slight headache ( 1st sign of altitude sickness- ) but well rid of with paracetemal. Some people already were feeling the effects of AS worse than that so I was lucky.
2 days at NBazar with an acclimitization day. This means next day you get up very early do an exerting walk to height then come back down to sleep at lower level to let the body acclimitize.

Next day 7.30am we trekked up 400m to a hotel called Everest View- 3800metres height. We stopped for drinks and lunch – and our first views of Everest were superb. Truly spectacular- and Chris helped me to take close ups of Everest using my mini binocs as an extra lens to seet he peak in detail. The skies were bright blue and yoiu could see the whisps of snow coming off Everest peak like a spiral. The mountain is frighteneing to see- idyllic but looks dangerous.
The rest of the Himalayas are also just as impressive – beautiful and something I will always remember. On the way we witnessed a helicoptor landing at the last stop that can be safely done at this height. Helicoptor ws used to bring in supplies and for obvious emrgencies. Heres where reality kicks – the higher we went from then on in – very difficult for helicoptors to land – weather permitting – and very rarely at Base camp due to it being on a glacier. So the hidden meaning is DONT GET ILL …….
( se photie)
We walked back down took 2 hours down 2/12 up.I had hired sticks in NBazar to help me with the climb up and they definitely made a huge difference.
At the tea house we met with the group who have just returned from Everest Base Camp- they were loud -happy – and drinking in the mood for celebrations. They had all made it. The group before them – apparently only a few got there and altitude Sickness kicked in badly. This particular group- the women suffered badly from AltSickness but took Diamoxin ( a prescribed drug to counteract the effects) and got to the Base Camp. A doctor in the group told us that at Base Camp you can get your blood count checked at the local reserach centre there. She said as a doctor with readings showing only 53% oxygen in the blood ( this was the blood count count majority of the group had)- you would in the UK -be hospitalised immediately. . “Amazing” she said ” how the body reacts with acclimitisation” .
That night our group was paricularly quiet- worried- and most never slept properly. On the other hand the group who had come down partied until the early hours -bugger.

2nd May – 6 hour trek distance of 8.2 KM descended 300metres up 200m. THis was my favourite part of the trekk. Absolutely stunning views and off the beaten path winding through valleys and arriving at PHORTSE. I loved this part of the trek but we were warned by our guide to stop singing and conserve energy.
Phortse is a goregous hill village with terraced fileds growing buck wheat and potatoes. Very basic and beautifully situated, and so incredibly quiet. The height here was 3810 m.The tea house was the most basic so far with no running water- had to get water from a tap lower in the village- but porters insisted on doing this.

The views were fantastic until the mist roled in – as at this height you up in the clouds. We witnessed later that night the most amazing night sky – clear – bright beautiful – and in the distance in the valley we saw flashes of lightening lighting up the whole valley for an instant. A magic moment.
Very very cold in the night but sleeping bag held true- and thank God for wet wipes- at least some decency to keep clean. Here altitude started to kick in.

HOW ALTITUDE SICKNESS MANIFESTS ITSELF

Well for me- absolute piercing headaches at the back of head ( like a jack hammer) but thankfully resolved using Ibruforen and paracetamal for me anyway.
Not being able to sleep, nightmares, waking up in middle of night panicked gasping for breath
( I thought I was suffocating in my sleeping bag to great hysteria in the night from Annie when I shouted out loud)
ALWAYS running to the toilet for a wee – Jeez this is the most annoying and everyone suffered from this- plus me personally -bloated – wind-( farting continuously) tiredness- and in extreme case scenario appearing dizzy and drunk ( this only happened to me once – on my way down very disconcerting) Some people took the meds to prevent it getting worse – I got by I wasn’t so bad.

The guides were brilliant – letting each person go at their own pace sometimes with up to an hour to 20min difference in arrival times- but really supportive.
I usually walked with the middle group – my pace – not rushing with plenty of breaks.

TOILETS

These vary and I planned to get photies but not for public consumption.

At lower altitude you sometimes got a western style toilet – upright- we would all cheer if it was a western toilet – esp the men who found it difficult to go – on squat style toilets- some never went for days!!!!!!!!

The higher you went the more basic the toilet

Squat toilets ( this is a china basin with footholds that you squat over- throw water down from a handy bucket to flush)

The hole in the ground – usually over a precipice of some sort – wooden slatted- view of the mire below- just aim carefully- men paricularly bad at this

The hole in the ground – but with lovely earthy walls made from YAK dung-I liked this one it was so organic – throw leaves and wood chips on to the mire

And the best one was in a village we stopped at- only few ventured – perched on a height – tin shack with only 3 walls – back wall exposed to the elements and with a view that people on the way up the path could view to their hearts content

Other options on route – bushes – rocks- you name it –

Photies show last stop for a helicoptor recue-landing – Annie my roomie ill with AS- views – A sherpa with huge wooden load going uphill – and me feeling virtuous.