The world according to K

Trek time begins at getting up at 6.30 am breakfast – then out. Our trek was UPHILL 800 mtres climb to Namche Bazar. Hard hard hard going. I realised quite quickly that I needed the walking sticks that everyone less bar a few of the group were using them . Steps uphill – then steep inclines that you trek up by literally placing one foot in front of the other and NOT looking up to see how far you have gone otherwsie you become despondent.Breathlessness started to kick in but we had plenty of rest times at each say 100 or metres or so climb ( could have been less).

I felt for one in the group Trudy who was doing this uphill nightmare- really not well with the dreaded stomach upset – frequent dashes to a nearby toilet ( if any or bush )and supplies of Immodium were given to her. It must have been awful for her and I really admired the fact that she never moaned- just cracked on. Nice un Trudy.

800metres up we reached Namche Bazar. This is the last main stop before Everest Base camp and it is great place. You can get supplies and most things for twice the price – the higher you go the more expensive it gets- inc food.
Here I had my last “hot shower” not really hot but tepid.I stocked up on chocolate bars- Bounty’s and Mars – wet wipes and toilet paper. The tea house main room was warm and comfortable with the stove going – but the bedrooms were freezing. Thank God for my sleeping bag , thermals and beanie to wear in bed. The meal I had was potato fry – everything here is fried- but I introduced everyone to the famous hot honey lemon and ginger drink which was requested from then on by all and sundry – as “Karen’s Special”. No alcohol on way up as it doesnt mix very well with altitude. I only had a slight headache ( 1st sign of altitude sickness- ) but well rid of with paracetemal. Some people already were feeling the effects of AS worse than that so I was lucky.
2 days at NBazar with an acclimitization day. This means next day you get up very early do an exerting walk to height then come back down to sleep at lower level to let the body acclimitize.

Next day 7.30am we trekked up 400m to a hotel called Everest View- 3800metres height. We stopped for drinks and lunch – and our first views of Everest were superb. Truly spectacular- and Chris helped me to take close ups of Everest using my mini binocs as an extra lens to seet he peak in detail. The skies were bright blue and yoiu could see the whisps of snow coming off Everest peak like a spiral. The mountain is frighteneing to see- idyllic but looks dangerous.
The rest of the Himalayas are also just as impressive – beautiful and something I will always remember. On the way we witnessed a helicoptor landing at the last stop that can be safely done at this height. Helicoptor ws used to bring in supplies and for obvious emrgencies. Heres where reality kicks – the higher we went from then on in – very difficult for helicoptors to land – weather permitting – and very rarely at Base camp due to it being on a glacier. So the hidden meaning is DONT GET ILL …….
( se photie)
We walked back down took 2 hours down 2/12 up.I had hired sticks in NBazar to help me with the climb up and they definitely made a huge difference.
At the tea house we met with the group who have just returned from Everest Base Camp- they were loud -happy – and drinking in the mood for celebrations. They had all made it. The group before them – apparently only a few got there and altitude Sickness kicked in badly. This particular group- the women suffered badly from AltSickness but took Diamoxin ( a prescribed drug to counteract the effects) and got to the Base Camp. A doctor in the group told us that at Base Camp you can get your blood count checked at the local reserach centre there. She said as a doctor with readings showing only 53% oxygen in the blood ( this was the blood count count majority of the group had)- you would in the UK -be hospitalised immediately. . “Amazing” she said ” how the body reacts with acclimitisation” .
That night our group was paricularly quiet- worried- and most never slept properly. On the other hand the group who had come down partied until the early hours -bugger.

2nd May – 6 hour trek distance of 8.2 KM descended 300metres up 200m. THis was my favourite part of the trekk. Absolutely stunning views and off the beaten path winding through valleys and arriving at PHORTSE. I loved this part of the trek but we were warned by our guide to stop singing and conserve energy.
Phortse is a goregous hill village with terraced fileds growing buck wheat and potatoes. Very basic and beautifully situated, and so incredibly quiet. The height here was 3810 m.The tea house was the most basic so far with no running water- had to get water from a tap lower in the village- but porters insisted on doing this.

The views were fantastic until the mist roled in – as at this height you up in the clouds. We witnessed later that night the most amazing night sky – clear – bright beautiful – and in the distance in the valley we saw flashes of lightening lighting up the whole valley for an instant. A magic moment.
Very very cold in the night but sleeping bag held true- and thank God for wet wipes- at least some decency to keep clean. Here altitude started to kick in.

HOW ALTITUDE SICKNESS MANIFESTS ITSELF

Well for me- absolute piercing headaches at the back of head ( like a jack hammer) but thankfully resolved using Ibruforen and paracetamal for me anyway.
Not being able to sleep, nightmares, waking up in middle of night panicked gasping for breath
( I thought I was suffocating in my sleeping bag to great hysteria in the night from Annie when I shouted out loud)
ALWAYS running to the toilet for a wee – Jeez this is the most annoying and everyone suffered from this- plus me personally -bloated – wind-( farting continuously) tiredness- and in extreme case scenario appearing dizzy and drunk ( this only happened to me once – on my way down very disconcerting) Some people took the meds to prevent it getting worse – I got by I wasn’t so bad.

The guides were brilliant – letting each person go at their own pace sometimes with up to an hour to 20min difference in arrival times- but really supportive.
I usually walked with the middle group – my pace – not rushing with plenty of breaks.

TOILETS

These vary and I planned to get photies but not for public consumption.

At lower altitude you sometimes got a western style toilet – upright- we would all cheer if it was a western toilet – esp the men who found it difficult to go – on squat style toilets- some never went for days!!!!!!!!

The higher you went the more basic the toilet

Squat toilets ( this is a china basin with footholds that you squat over- throw water down from a handy bucket to flush)

The hole in the ground – usually over a precipice of some sort – wooden slatted- view of the mire below- just aim carefully- men paricularly bad at this

The hole in the ground – but with lovely earthy walls made from YAK dung-I liked this one it was so organic – throw leaves and wood chips on to the mire

And the best one was in a village we stopped at- only few ventured – perched on a height – tin shack with only 3 walls – back wall exposed to the elements and with a view that people on the way up the path could view to their hearts content

Other options on route – bushes – rocks- you name it –

Photies show last stop for a helicoptor recue-landing – Annie my roomie ill with AS- views – A sherpa with huge wooden load going uphill – and me feeling virtuous.

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