The world according to K

The photies show some highlights on the way up to Everest Base Camp- including some of the gang I trekked with, a stoma, view I had of Everest, a typical lodge stop – which has a pair of yaks antlers outside and gives the height, plus a view of MONKEY strapped to my rucksack , with the sun in the background.

I’ve checked through previous entries and I must aplogise for the spelling errors-only so much time on the internet so you rush – –

So where was I – 3d May – at 5.30 am – out by 7am we were heading alongside the valley of IMJA KHOLA – the River. Steep sides but beautiful clear day with views of Ama Dablam ( another climbers dream – high and technically very difficult) and Amphu Gyabjen another souring peak- all snow capped and glorious to see ). At 4000m we stoped at Big Chorten and had alunch at village called Pangboche. On the way there were yaks, mountain goats perched on sides, swooping eagles and a huge vulture that kept flying low over us ( that said something)

Sherpa stew had become my stalwart meal alongside the “Karen Special” drimk. Sherpa Stew is a thick broth full of fresh veg – well filling and kept me going – that and plenty of Bounty Bars . I never eat chocolate at home but I was averaging 2 a day – not ate any since .. funny or what . At that height if I ran out of any choc bars they were available at 200r a bar ( thats alot about 1 pound 20).

DINGBOCHE
After lunch we walked up to 4410m- steep steep steep.
We stayed at Dingboche which was lovely and Annie and I decided to walk up to a Stoma another 100 m higher for a view and also to get more acclimitised. It was a lovely moment – views – peace – prayer flags on the stoma and a man herding his Yaks. Great stuff.

We stayed 2 nights at Dingboche to acclimitize. Next our acclimitisation walk took us to a dried glacier lake ( Duono glacier). It was steep as in straight up ..the hardest climb so far- and at times with the breathlessness – and steep incline I got truly frightened. It was so exhausting – one slow step at a time. We only climbed to 4800 metres ( just approx 400, ) but it was so difficult with the altitude- and it warnded us about what was to come.

The lake is dry – and no vegetation – only bushes mainly Juniper Bushes – the smell of which give you a severe headache. We were now above the tree line and in the clouds so it was Tundra like desert up there.
Opposite the lake at the top was an awesome view of the mountain Ama Dablam – and it looked terrifying and unbelievable that any one would want to climb this thing.

Trudy and Simon ( in our group)- their parents neighbours had lost a son on this mountain in November. It was an avalanche that took him and two others ( Swiss) plus guides. He had left a diary describing how excited he was to be climbing it and describing the walk up to the mountain ( which we had already followed so far ) .Trudy and Simon had told us about this earlier and said the parents were out at the same time – trekking the same way and hoping to recover his body. As yet there was no sign that any bodies had been found. It was so sad and tragic and made the beauty of the moutain appear ominous.

Beside the lake Trudy and Simon built a stone cairn in honour of his memory. It is a remote – peaceful and yet a poignant spot with a view of the mountain straight ahead. I thought it was a very fitting. I hope his parents get to see it.

That night in the tea house – I hung my knickers up to dry in the main Dining room- to great interest from sherpas – guides – and the group. I had to do this – I was desperate to wear something clean.

5th May – altitude definitely started to affect people- sleeplessnes – sluggishness – breathlessness and headaches all part of the course.At this time I was averaging 4 litres of water a day at least – to stop dehydration. The trick is to follow the person in front -their footsteps-try to keep pace – stepping where their boots have been in front of you and breathe through the nose – very very slowly.We were now averaging 2km an hour . Straight Uphill.

The terrain at this height is truly like desert- dry river beds -sand under foot- huge boulders – hardly any vegetation ( bar moss) and you are amongst or above the clouds.

At one point just after a lunch at Thokla- we climbed a very steep side ( took an hour). At the top it naturally flattened out – and here at the top as far as the eye could see- were stone cairns – prayer flags flapping – all memorials to people who had died climbing Everest. It was a sombre sight.
I was looking at the memorial of a sherpa who died falling into a cravasse after climbing Everest 11 times- another of Scott Fischer who I had just read about. This particular book is fantastic and it describes the disaster of 1996 – when stupid commerciallity took over the climbing of Everest and where 12 people including Rob Hall , Scott Fischer lost their lives. It is called “Into Thin Air ” by Jon Krakauer- and well worth the read. He was on the climb.

These memorials and cairns reminded us how deadly the mountain is and can be. It was very thought provoking and served as an ominous reminder as to how it was life or death for climbers.
Apparently the stats say 1 in 9 who reach summit of Everrst will probably die. Its not the climb up the ‘hill ” as they say – but the getting down. You only have one window of opportunity (weather permitting) and learning to say No or Give up to go back could save your life . Says it all.

Earlier at lunch we had a met a guy from Chezch- who was walking back up to Base camp. He was with the Chezch expedition – and they had been refused entry to climb on the Tibet side so the came to Nepal. Apparently the Mayor from Prague was with them.

They had managed to climb to base camp 2 on the Everest ( only 4 camps to summit) but he went down with a severe tooth abcess and had to come back down. So off he had trekked to Namche Bazar ( where we had stopped earlier to acclimitise) got the tooth fixed and was on his way back up . We all thought something or someone was trying to tell him not to go on..however…I must check out on line how the Chezch group – did they make it.

The cairns the stats- the liklihood of dying on the mountain – does it put climbers off ? Nothing changes it seems – we were heading to Base canp where at that time 17 expeditions were at base camp waiting to go to the summit. ( And this remember is only the Nepal side not Tibet)
If I can I will upload the video clip I made of this memorial sight – it is amazing. Watch this space not yet mastered uploading the vclips.

LOBUCHE

We walked on to LOBUCHE at 4910 metres, and were thrilled to discover a Western Toilet. However the rooms were tiny and the beds slanted to one side – so you thought were sleeping on an incline in fact what am I saying -you were sleeping on an incline .

We reached this tea house at 2.30pm after walking 4-5 hours. We were in bed by 8.30pm knackered but snug in sleeping bags. The next day we were up at 5.30am to make the last trekk and push to Base Camp. Not sure if anyone sleptthe night before. At 4910 metres ( thats 16 000ft) we were at 50% oxygen. As I said not sure if anyone slept.

Problems uploading images today so will add on when I can

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