The world according to K

Lobuche to Everest Base Camp

Up at 5.30 am out by 6am we walked 11km- climbed only 454 metres- but it took us 9 hours. The altitude now affected all of us. Headaches , dizziness very severe and the pace was so very very sow . I looked like s….t, with the bags the size of handbags under my eyes, and face burnt- and feeling filthy. Great start.
From Lobuche it was 3 hours of solid uphill trekkinhg to Gorak Shep to a height of 5140 metres. At 10 am we had brunch then kitted up. I wore 5 layers – and over jackets as it was freezing cold – and God was I glad of my snuggle head gear.

The first part to base camp is pure desert….sand – sandstone- actually like a beach but without the sea. We walked as though in slow motion – no one talking – but everyone including me counting in their heads the steps – and breathing slowly. It was torturous. At the top of this steep climb there was a sign . No word of a lie – it is a little sign with an arrow pointing – “this way to Everest base camp”. Hysterical.

We were then confronted by the Khumbu Glacier. I have never seen anything like it . The ice is blue – glistening – cracking and moving. There are ice caves, crevasses and opposite to where we were walking were views of the mountains MEHRA NUPTSE, KALA PATTHAR ( Black Rock ). It was silent but suddenly you would hear a crack and rumble.We witnessed two avalanches from afar on the opposite side, as the snow melted at the higher peaks and tumbled down. Very frightening and yet exciting to see.

At one stage towards the Base Camp there is a thin rocky section – but at the sides there is loose Morraine rocks and boulders perched with nothing to keep them in place. We could see small rock falls happening ahead – and heard the rumble and splat as the rocks fell down. This arera was where many people in the past including have been hit by falling rocks – and killed. It was the only time during the walk at this height that our guide asked us to HURRY HURRY and by God we did – not quite a run but at a fast pace as fast as we could safely do so . For me this was incredibly scary , not sure of the others , but I was nearly crying from sheer fright by the time I got to the other side where it was safe.

At this point we could actually see Base Camp – a smattering of multi coloured expedition tents pitched actually on the base of the glacier .Behind the camp stretchedtowards Everest there is a view of the ice Pinnacles of Everest .Stunning. The tents looked tiny – but we thought they were relatively close. Nearly 2 HOURS LATER the longest 2 hours of my life….we arrived at Base Camp.
I could hardly put one foot in front of the other and have never felt so utterly exhausted. I walked into the camp 3rd behind the guide and could hardly talk. There was a sign welcoming you the EVEREST BASE CAMP BAKERY..it was surreal.

The whole group collapsed getting our breath back and wondering how the hell we were going to make it back……At first no cheers just recuperation and then slowly we began to enjoy the moment.
Photies taken , Simon dressed as a nun , me with stuffed animals and celebration by having the most fantastic cheesecake at the bakery tent.

The camp itself is boring – boulders , glacier tents and toilet tents. It was the getting there that was the objective.The view of the start of the climb for Everest ( you can not see Everest peak from BC) was terrifying. We were not sure if we could see dots of people attemnpting it, but the day was clear sunny and apparently perfect for climbing.

We spoke to a few climbers waiting to summit..they all appear slightly derranged to me …and had a chat with some documentary film makersfrom Miramax who were filming in the bakery tent. It was all very bizzare.

After about an 3/4 hour at the camp we had to head back. I have never dreaded anything so much – and we were all already completely knackered..but no choice.
We aimed for the tea House at Gorak Shep 5140 metres, and when we arrived back none of us could even talk- we were so exhausted.
I collapsed on the bed fully clothed and for some strange reason I became very emotional and began to cry. Apparently I wasnt the only one – the sheer exhaustion – tiredness and experiencing such an extreme experience must take its toll at some point. After whinging – sleeping – and a hot meal – I was as right as reign. The high came later- for all of us- when we recovered we celebrated- mainly in Namche Bazarre lower down on our trek back – at that point we could consume alcohol again because it was safe to do so. That wasnt until 2 days later.

That

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This entry was posted on Sunday, June 10th, 2007 at 5:25 am and is filed under Travel. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.