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The Gibbon Experience

Thursday, November 30th, 2006

A few days ago I woke up, hearing birds and a strange whistling sound in the distance, cool air all around, a British guy two bodies down. Of course there weren’t any walls, and we were 40 meters off the ground. By twisting my neck I could see mist darting in and out of mountains, changing colors with the sunrise. A new sound entered: a humming, buzzing that alerted us that breakfast was on its way. Sure enough, a man popped his head up through the floor carrying multi-course stacking tins. After breakfast we gathered our few belongings and strapped on our “diaper” of webbing, rope, and caribeners. Clip, clip, one giant step over the tops of trees and distant forest floor and we went sailing through the air, a natural commute to our next destination. : )

No, no not another malaria med dream this time. This really is a typical morning as part of our “Gibbon Experience.” The project was designed to use tourism to help protect the Bokeo Nature Reserve from poachers and other misuse. It also is a surreal (and fun!!) way for travellers to see the amazing landscape and, sometimes, the black-faced gibbon monkeys. We hiked, slept in treehouses, bathed in waterfalls, used the ultimate in “long-drop” toilets, and travelled by zip-lines over treetops.

Now Kristin and I are going to flex our independent traveller muscles. We decided last night that holding Vietnam visas doesn’t require that we actually go there. Sounds simple, but sometimes it’s hard to see the other paths coming off your planned road. So, that means we’ll spend less time dashing off to the east, more time on questionable roads traveling through beautiful Laos, less time in the Southeast Asia tourist conga-line.

“The best way to make the most of life is to look upon it as an adventure.” William Feather

Travelling the Mekong

Sunday, November 26th, 2006

Because of scheduling needs, Kristin and I have now had the opportunity to traverse the Mekong River between the border of Thailand and Luang Prabang, Laos TWICE. Initially we had the leisurely 2-day float in the well-named “Slow Boat.” We snickered at people flying by huddled and helmeted in the “Speedboats,” feeling a bit cocky because we had made the “smart decision” and heeded the guidebook warnings that these boats “crash with alarming frequency.” Well, today we swallowed our smugness as we experienced what it was like to pierce the river in a needle-nosed craft. Good opportunity to laugh at the contrast:

TIME:
To cover the 850km, it takes 33 hours in THE SLOW BOAT, including a night’s stay in a village and the confusing 1 1/2 hours each morning waiting for the official push-off. In the SPEEDBOAT, it takes 6 hours. Sometimes. Maybe 7 others. For us, it took 9.

SEATING:
In the SLOW BOAT, we balanced on 6-inch plank benches or confidently lounged in open sills, shoulder to shoulder with the 100+ other “cattle.” In the SPEEDBOAT, we sat huddled on the boat’s floor, hugging our knees, shoulder to shoulder, two by two, with 6 others.

SAFETY GEAR:
In the SLOW BOAT, the safety gear consisted of a villager’s canoe that might retrieve you if you fall off the back [This really did happen; guy looked a little sheepish and wet when he reboarded.] In the SPEED BOAT, the safety gear consisted of ear plugs, tattered life jackets OR extra-large, broken helmets that weather-vaned when you turned your head.

SOCIAL SCENE:
In the SLOW BOAT, you had time, and more time, to sit and share snacks and trade life stories with your neighbors. In the SPEEDBOAT, being social consisted of sharing faces of humor or alarm (“Rock!”) and exchanging pleasantries while marooned on the beach together (more later).

ENGINES:
The SLOW BOAT engine putters loudly but steadily, like a trusty tractor. The SPEED BOAT engine buzzes excitedly like a giant mosquito…..until it stops altogether. That’s when your captain motions you onto the beach, tosses you life jackets, and then buzzes away with all your belongings. Twice. Finally his “I can fix it pride” wore off and we were tossed into another speedboat.

SCENERY:
In the SLOWBOAT, if you saw something of interest approaching, you had plenty of time to search for your camera, reposition yourself in the boat, maybe even compose a song for the villagers there. ; ) In the SPEEDBOAT, the scenery flings itself at you in wide-open splendor, then flies past like the Pringles from your can.

ANALOGIES:
If the boats were fair rides, the SLOW BOAT would be a merry-go-round (going, going, how nice, yawn). The SPEEDBOAT would be a rollercoaster….but one of those really old wooden ones that kind of hurt.

Ha ha, OK you get the point.
Tomorrow we leave for THE GIBBON EXPERIENCE: hiking, living in treehouses, ziplining through the forest. Wee! : D

THE “SPECIAL TOUR”

Saturday, November 25th, 2006
After several minutes thumbing dumbly through the Green Discovery notebook, the man behind the desk stands up and goes to a map on the wall. “You can do this,” he suggests and points out a two day trip---one day trekking ... [Continue reading this entry]

Happy Thanksgiving!

Thursday, November 23rd, 2006
Sitting in Luang Prabang, Laos, my brain strains to picture typical "holidays"---people putting up lights, Christmas trees in parking lots, aroma of turkey and pies, shopping stressors begun. But, despite some serious geographical and mental distance from pilgrims and indians, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Circus Training

Sunday, November 19th, 2006
Ideas for second and third careers continue to present themselves...maybe we should trade pediatric therapy for elephant aerobics? Or combine the two for "therapeutic elephant riding" for a novel spin away from horses? We signed up for "Thom's ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lucky Survivors

Friday, November 17th, 2006
....after all, it is possibly the most dangerous thing we've done so far. For hours today we were surrounded by novices flinging very sharp weapons. At one point, we were enveloped by huge flames. My tongue ... [Continue reading this entry]

Continued Krabi Adventures

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006
Every day is an adventure in this place. And every day I add new cuts, blisters and bandaids to remember it by. Yesterday we did an afternoon climbing session with our excellent and ultra-mellow guide Yhu (skilled enough to belay, ... [Continue reading this entry]

A good, good place

Sunday, November 12th, 2006
My muscles, my mind, my eyes and belly are complimenting us on our latest destination: Hat Tonsai Beach near Krabi. Yesterday began with a disorienting post-dream funk. In my dream a series of purposed "coincidences" were strung together to instruct ... [Continue reading this entry]

If I had a baht….

Friday, November 10th, 2006
IF I HAD ONE BAHT FOR EVERY..... ...freckle on my polychromatic skin ...time that "Life is Gooood!" has run through my head ...cut, bruise, burn, and blister on my ill-treated legs ...other calf in Thailand with a motorbike burn in the exact same place ...menu ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Full Moon Party

Monday, November 6th, 2006
Flame dancers painting glowing arcs, Fluorescent dragons butterflies flags and bones jumping from tanned skin, Sellers of pancakes, booze buckets, chicken skewers, bendable wearable neon, Possibly the most vibrant and international beach in the world at that moment. Brushing past ... [Continue reading this entry]