BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the 'Cambodia' Category

« Home

Serendipity Beach

Saturday, December 23rd, 2006

I woke up with the confusion of thinking I had slept once again in a treehouse. Loosely fitted planks and thatch let light, breeze, footstep vibrations, and sounds seep in around my little pad on the floor. Some sounds more pleasant than others—waves crashing, kids calling, techno thumping, cue ball bouncing until 3am. Guess when you pay $2, you don’t complain and happily tote your toiletries through the bar to the squatter/shower the next morning.

It’s nice to be back at the beach though. “Serendipity Beach” officially begins at the edge of the restaurant, platforms keeping you above the spill of the waves. A colorful array of visitors walk by: sellers of shrimp-on-a-stick, lobster, bracelets, sarongs, pineapple. A man without legs pulls himself through the sand, collecting bills in his hat. A teeny girl uses a bamboo pole to lead her blind father who follows singing Khmer tunes in vibrating tenor. A woman walks up, touches my toenails, palm on my thigh and reports: “You have hair.” Before I can defend, she’s sprinkled my leg with powder, wrapped a string between her fingers and —YANK!–a row of little hairs scream in terror.

A nice crowd mingles here too. An interesting evening of talking holidays, war, and national pride with a couple people from Israel, a Canadian, and another American while eating french fries with banana chocolate shakes. Unfortunately the kind of conversation that ends a night rather than begins one (and puts you restlessly trying to sleep above the growing din of the drunk below). Maybe I should take the “if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em” advice tonight. ; )

No signs of Christmas though. Down to 3 cookies in the tin. Sunburn and sarong make my body more Christmas-colored than anything else around. Am very grateful for the cheery emails, always appreciated, but especially as I fight pangs of homesickness for those Christmas-like things taken for granted.

Tomorrow I begin the multi-transport trek back to Bangkok. Hope that your pre-Christmas days are filled with things that feel good in your head, heart and body. Missing you all and sending merries your way…. : )

Bumps

Thursday, December 21st, 2006

Is “the road less traveled” still considered a road if it’s been turned inside out from rude tanks? What if it’s a 3-foot wide sand path balanced between rice fields? Robert Frost may say “sure.” Or, more likely, he’d say, “Silly girl, it was just a metaphor. Find some pavement before you hurt yourself!” 🙂

Dust, grit, and bugs imbedded in my hair at high speed have characterized the past couple days. Yesterday I joined a group heading up into Bokor National Park. “Our other truck broke,” they informed us as we were packed like pigs on a moto into a small pickup. Not so bad on pavement, but once we passed the park gates, there was no such thing. Bokor National Park used to be a ritzy getaway for the French and rich Cambodians. At the top were palaces, a casino, bank (where you could trade your land title for more gambling funds), and a place to tie up the elephants that brought you there. Unfortunately, the Khmer and Vietnamese troops also found it a great scenic spot to stage their war. Since then, the resident tigers and elephants have run far away, the buildings are just graffitied holes, and the road is marginally passable. But, tourists still hand out their dollars, even subjecting themselves to serious bruising, in order to see the view of the Gulf of Thailand from the top and to walk through the eery emptied palaces. Good thing my group was good-natured and we could alternate laughs with our groans as parts of our bodies were alternately lashed with overhanging branches and bounced into hard metal or neighbors’ bony points.

Today I decided to seek out personal space once again and rented another moto. Down to the ex-resort town of Kep, where once again war turned fancy into fallen. However, it’s still an incredibly pleasant place to be. Fresh seafood eaten on the water as you watch the women tug the crab cages up on shore. Little thatched huts with hammocks for lazing. Coconut trees and seaside vistas. Also an amazing sunset. Watching it turn pink, red, orange, purple is what hypnotized me into a timeless state then sent me alarmed on the road back to town. The dark wasn’t bad because I couldn’t see the holes. Or the pigs. It was the bugs that did me in. I was torn between speeding up to maximize dropping light and slowing down to lessen the sting from sex-legged bullets. In the end, I just wrapped my face with my head scarf and chalked it up to truly experiencing life in the land of moto travel.

Tomorrow, bye bye sleepy town. I head to Sihanoukville beach where I’ve heard the masses await!

Margene the Dirt Bike Queen

Tuesday, December 19th, 2006
On a cold, cloudy evening in Xam Neua, Kristin and I worked up our "redneck personas." Everyone needs to know theirs. Mine is Margene the Dirt Bite Queen, pilot of potholes, Athena of the throttle. Well, today ... [Continue reading this entry]

Christmas in Cambodia

Monday, December 18th, 2006
Fat Santas were replaced by a small boy in Santa pj's; turkey and potatoes became coconut chicken and spring rolls; and the Khmer "Joy to the World" was a foot-tapper with full dance ensemble. All in all, today was ... [Continue reading this entry]

White teeth big eyes wide smiles

Sunday, December 17th, 2006
"Children are like oxygen for me," my dad says with a grin as he climbs into the van, camera bulging with colorful portraits, palms still tingling from high fives. It's one of the reasons I love traveling with my ... [Continue reading this entry]

Insanity

Thursday, December 14th, 2006
I think my last couple days in Cambodia have been a decent simulation of manic depression. Or maybe it's just a condensed serving of all the best and worst of humanity on one heavy plate. I can't adequately ... [Continue reading this entry]

Thai and His Tuk Tuk

Tuesday, December 12th, 2006
I had already turned down about 50 eager tuk tuk offers in the interest of walking slowly and to nowhere in particular. Then I met Thai. He won me over with his excellent English and ideas for my ... [Continue reading this entry]

Flux

Monday, December 11th, 2006
Well, Kristin tuk tuked to the airport this morning. After dirty tears and moping, I decided to spend an indulgent day of nothing much. We spent the last two days at the Angkor Wat Temples with a personal ... [Continue reading this entry]