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Green-colored Glasses

Friday, April 27th, 2007

I’m sliding out of the Northlands like sap—slowly, thickly, reluctantly. In the past week and a half, I don’t think I’ve driven more than 100 kilometers. When I first realized that I had another month here, I was initially disappointed that it wouldn’t be spent in the peaks and fiords of the South Island, New Zealand’s attention-seeking little brother. But, even if the scenery of the North Island doesn’t make you gasp and yodel, it certainly brings out hums and whistles.

I’m on the West Coast, the great unknown. “I’d be happy to tell you about the weathuh,” she told me, “if the foecasters acknowledged that we exist he-ah.” Why people rarely come I don’t know; it’s beautiful. Here in Omapere, salty harbour blows kisses at rolling pastures which rub shoulders with lush tropical forests which have tea with giant sand dunes. And the green, the GREEN is of an intensity, shade, and expanse that photos and words are too flat for. Best I can do is call it an assemblage of cucumber, mint, lime puree and fingerpaint.

I’ve also found my comfortable compromise with “woofing” (working for accommodation). Yesterday I spent the day gardening the jungle that surrounds The Treehouse–cutting down trees, ripping vines. Not only did it cover 3 nights’ lodging, but it was satisfying in the way that knocking over a giant block tower is when you’re five. Tomorrow I’ll be pruning bamboo here at Globe Trekkers. Toilets, I can’t do. Hanging outside with some sharp tools and gumboots, this is “work” I can handle. 🙂

 “The world is sweet in the heart, and green to the eye….”  —Muhammad

Licking up thu Laund

Tuesday, April 24th, 2007

A couple hours ago I stumbled into a small Maori town in search of food on a holiday–EnZed (Memorial) Day—when nothing is open. In addition to a decent burger, I met a group of locals whose holiday had already passed into the state of making toasts and singing Kenny Rodgers loudly by 11am. In the course of less than an hour, I was presented with a shot of Wild Turkey, a phone number for spending the night, and an old lady’s swollen foot (my claims of “therapist” were misunderstood). Now in dramatic contrast, I sit in a barn at “The Treehouse” with Polly the sheep looking on as I thumb through my head to file most recent pictures and thoughts.

Spent the last several days “tramping” (which, in New Zealand is an outdoorsy, rather than promiscuous, event). It began with an hour on 90-Mile Beach, something that, whether biking or hiking, feels a bit like panting on a treadmill while the scenery defies dramatic change. I relished the silly thrill though of carrying a pack, barefoot, kicking waves, while keeping company only with gulls. As I headed into my first camp at Twilight Beach, I passed a Maori, friendly as all seem to be. He immediately presents me with selections of his fresh catches: a fish and an abalone. When I looked a little skeptical at what I would do with them, he insists, “ya gotta eat off thu laund, bro!” and gives me full directions for slicing, gutting, and cooking. So, Gurl of the Laund I was that night–bathing in the ocean, making my little driftwood fire, and cooking up one tasty fish. I gave the slimy abalone (to be eaten raw) a long guilty staredown, then decided that it would be my offering back to the laund (or to the gulls at least).

The next day was a beautiful hike—‘cross beaches, sand dunes, pastures, cliff-supported ridges—into Tapotupotu Bay. Another gorgeous place to set up camp, this time with the luxuries of pit toilets and running water. There I met another nice tramper who joined me during the hiking and star-gazing of the next couple days. Just when I think that I’ll truly be alone (that state when the gods magically turn you into a poet or artist just for communing with nature), then I find myself in good company once again. Guess I’ll just give up on being an artist. 😉

Mathematics are well and good but nature keeps dragging us around by the nose. Albert Einstein

Skipper Cindy

Wednesday, April 18th, 2007
Well, house arrest lasted about two days. Two days to discover that I could actually spend MORE money downloading things to my laptop. So, yesterday I hopped aboard the Ghungha for a sailing tour of the Bay of Islands. Captain ... [Continue reading this entry]

HOUSE ARREST

Monday, April 16th, 2007

" I recommend the all-day sailing tour of the Bay of Islands."  Nope.

"There are 4WD tours to the tip of 90 mile beach."  Nah

"Dive New Zealand!"  I think not.

I've put myself on house arrest.  After leaving Auckland a couple days ago ... [Continue reading this entry]

Reality goes Retrograde

Saturday, April 14th, 2007
I opened a saved "draft" that I never posted and laughed. In it, I sadly mentioned an unforeseen countdown: leaving New Zealand in a week to go work in Alaska for the summer. Now, thanks to writing's procrastinations, that post ... [Continue reading this entry]

Flea Food

Tuesday, April 3rd, 2007

New Zealand has 4 million people, 40 million sheep. South Island's West Coast has 30,000 people, 30 million sand fleas. I've met each of the smaller inhabitants and offered up my ankles reluctantly as a buffet. Luckily there are ... [Continue reading this entry]