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More friends, more ruins, and more pots

Sunday, August 7th, 2005

3 Aug – 7 Aug, 2005

We first met Nick and Wendy in Myanmar (Burma) about 18 months ago. There we smoked hand-rolled cheroots with tight newspaper wads as filters. Here, they shared with us a couple of the cubans they picked up a few months ago. Pure quality in contrast. It was a pleasure to see them once again, this time in coastal Trujillo. It did seem an odd day at first, as we had visited the main sites in the days before they arrived. We ended up spending a lot of the day around tables with various foods and drinks. But with a bottle of wine and some stories (and aforementioned cigars), we found ourselves sitting up late without at all noticing the time passing.

Trujillo

Nearby pre-Incan sites are quite different from those we have visited elsewhere, and we are still amazed at the variety of these things. These sites seem to have quite a few hairless dogs hanging around – unique to Peru. Ugly as…

Hairless dog

Trujillo has a couple of excellent museums. And for a change of pace, we visited nearby coastal village of Huanchaco for seafood and sunsets.

Sechin
Is that a rocker? Detail from temple at Sechín near Casma.

Breathless once again, back in the Peruvian highlands

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2005

29 Jul – 2 Aug, 2005

The distances are not great, but the times are. Buses grinding through the gears as we negotiate innumerable hairpins. Time to head in from the coast.

Ayacucho is a lovely town, with nice Colonial architecture. Definitely worth a stop if you ever happen to be in the area. Although, having been through a few in recent months, we contented ourselves with viewing the majority from a street perspective and only sticking our heads in every now and then. We did end up passing some time at a local fair. Imagine the “Melbourne Show” without the rides, the stunt displays replaced by horse riders, the cattle replaced by llamas and alpacas, and the fairy floss replaced by guinea pigs.

A couple of nights were then spent at nearby (in distance, not travel time) Huancayo. Again, definitely worth a small diversion. Found ourselves at an interesting “Gaudí” like park in town, full of sculptures and decorations all strongly tied to local identity and history. Very enjoyable for some hours. But even more surprising, on the edge of town, a park known as Torre Torre. Intriguing formations of compound rocks and soils, caused by centuries of erosion.

Torre Torre

If it had been possible, we would have used this diversion in and north to by-pass Lima for the moment (since we fly out from there and will return later), but we still ended up going through for a few hours.

Sea life

Thursday, July 28th, 2005
28 Jul, 2005 Having spent a few months inland, it was great to be at the coast. No beaches to speak of here, and no beach weather at the moment, but the trip to Islas Ballestas was a nice way ... [Continue reading this entry]

An oasis

Wednesday, July 27th, 2005
24 Jul - 27 Jul, 2005 Huacachina is an oasis, 4 km from Ica. Nothing but sand. And all of a sudden, in a depression, a lake surrounded by palms (OK, and some hotels and restaurants, now). Metres ... [Continue reading this entry]

Alien piccies in Nazca

Sunday, July 24th, 2005
23 Jul - 24 Jul, 2005 Alien piccies in Nazca. Aliens. Yes, we laughed too. The Nazca lines need no alien explanation for how they were created. The question might be why, but certainly the cultures of ... [Continue reading this entry]

A little bit of deja vu…

Friday, July 22nd, 2005
19 Jul - 22 Jul, 2005 Adamly!!! (In reality, Adam Lee.) How long's it been? 7 years! Vietnam, it was. Sapa, and Dien Bien Phu. Long time, no see, man. Want to join us ... [Continue reading this entry]

Canyons and Condors and Colonial Stuff

Tuesday, July 19th, 2005
16 Jul - 19 Jul, 2005 Arequipa. On the map, it looks like we are getting to the coast. But, it's still 2300metres. Getting lower, but still a long way up. Arequipa. Home of Juanita, "The Ice Princess". ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lakes and islands, bones and towers, and a phallus or two

Friday, July 15th, 2005
6 Jul - 15 Jul, 2005 We found ourselves in and around Lake Titicaca for some time. A day trip to Lampa had us in the presence of bones dragged up from the catacombs below and decorating the walls of an aristocratic ... [Continue reading this entry]

Our Inca Trail – Choque Quirao

Sunday, July 3rd, 2005
28 Jun - 3 Jul, 2005 Maybe we would have done the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu if it had been possible to get in (booked out for months in advance), but to be honest, Jo was more enthusiastic than I ... [Continue reading this entry]

More stuff in and around Cusco

Monday, June 27th, 2005
24 Jun - 27 Jun, 2005 The 24th is Cusco's big day. Inti Raymi. Was it touristy? Yes. Worth seeing? Definitely. Worth going out of our way for? Glad we didn't... The setting ... [Continue reading this entry]