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“Evacuation of the Japanese”, Sarajevo

Monday, October 3rd, 2005

30 Sep, 2005

“Evacuation of the Japanese” – The group rescue campaign.

Travelling from Mostar to Sarajevo by train saw the formation of a small and motley band of travellers. Joanne and myself, Kimoko (a Japanese girl now living in Australia), Emily (a Melbournian), Fiona (another Melbournian, although currently residing O/S), Dan the Kiwi (introduced us to the phrase “Having a moose!”), and Shin (Japanese photographer). Arriving at Sarajevo railway station saw the group fragment. Joanne and I went to a private accomodation. Shin and Kimoko (who are not a couple, but happened to have already met the night before) were being met to go to another private accomodation, and the others went to a downtown hostel. There were apparently some problems about the accomodation Shin and Kimoko were being taken to – the lady was trying to explain something, but in the end, the travellers decided they could work out whatever problems there were.

Soon after settling in, Joanne and I met up with the hostelling trio, and the five of us spent the morning visiting sights, trying to avoid the rain. Suddenly, Kimoko and Shin appeared, and while Shin had his ever-composed expression on, Kimoko gave away that something wasn’t right. She threw her arms around Jo, and stated that “everything is awful”. And not just that somebody stole her umbrella, and the drizzling rain. Over coffee, the full story came out. The appallingly bad accomodation and its location. The woman who was very touchy with Shin, and kept asking him personal questions (“So, do you have a girlfriend?”) The lady had photos of herself with other Japanese men, all looking uncomfortable, while she beamed with her arm around them. Then it clicked for Shin. He had been warned. Warned about the Sarajevo woman who has a “thing” for Japanese men. Suddenly feeling like he was in some sort of bad dream (or bad movie), he and Kimoko felt a bit trapped. Perhaps partly trapped because of Japanese dignity, as they had agreed already to stay there, and didn’t feel they could change their minds. Surely it wouldn’t be so bad, since they could look out for each other?

So, they decided to do some sight-seeing. The place was 20 minutes drive from the centre. They saw some of Sarajevo before coming across the five of us. Now, with alternatives in front of them, the Japanese pair determined that they should not stay there. Encouraged by us, Kimoko and Shin went with Jo and Dan to secure an alternative place to stay. And then, Dan and I went back with them to recover their belongings. Sending in the heavies. As it turned out, we were not required, as the lady in question was not home. However, I’m glad that I had opportunity to see the mad place. The front door looked like it had been broken into a few times, and was padded on the inside. The pantry was empty, the kitchen was empty, the first living room was entirely bare – not one item in the room or on the walls. Only one room had anything in it. A couch, a small table, a fireplace, and a few other small items of furniture. This for Shin, Kimoko, and the host. Thankfully the evacuation went smoothly, and we celebrated afterwards.

Sarajevo - The happy group
Celebration of a successful mission.

Sarajevo – The recovering capital

Monday, October 3rd, 2005

30 Sep – 3 Oct, 2005

If you expect Sarajevo is going to be full of reminders of the war, think again. You have to look hard to find the physical evidence. Investment ensures that the number of scarred buildings is diminishing at a rapid rate. The “Sarajevo Roses” are disappearing as streets are re-paved. (Sarajevo Roses are where the damage caused by exploding shells have been filled in with red concrete.) Sure, the evidence is there, you just have to look hard to find it. In a few years, though, it will be just another European city getting on with things. In fact, even now, it is just another European city getting on with things.

Sarajevo Rose
A Sarajevo Rose

One sight not to be missed, the tunnel museum. During the four year long Serbian seige of Sarajevo, the trapped Bosnians mantained connection with the outside via an 800 metre tunnel underneath the Sarajevo airport. The house which was the “cover” for the exit of this tunnel has been turned in to a museum. This tunnel was used to transport supplies, fuel, even electricity. Very insightful and moving.

Sarajevo tunnel

As with Mostar, the Turkish feel is quite prevalent.

Turkish Coffee, Sarajevo
Turkish coffee

Sarajevo

War torn Mostar, to break your heart in Bosnia and Hercegovina

Friday, September 30th, 2005
29 Sep - 30 Sep, 2005 Recovery is slow for a town like Mostar. Here we encountered our first real dose of war scars. And while the medieval landmark bridge of Mostar has been reconstructed, for many buildings, only ... [Continue reading this entry]