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Balkan coast – no better start than Kotor

Tuesday, September 27th, 2005

26 Sep – 27 Sep, 2005

Kotor – or Cat-or as you cannot help but notice the high population of felines. A real jem. And not just the town, the setting, too. Set on a large fjord. A steep climb up from the town, through the old fortifications, leads to some battlements with extensive views back down over the town with the fjord behind.

The town itself has great protective walls, beautiful buildings, arches and fine details. Venetian influence evident at most turns. We managed a room in the middle of the old town, which made returning to our room at night a delight. It also meant we spent the late afternoon and evening exploring town, while it was free of the large groups that had swarmed through during the day.

Kotor Fjord

Kotor

Coffee keeps the peace in Prizren, Kosovo

Monday, September 26th, 2005

25 – 26 Sep, 2005

We were ready for the KFOR presence. Peacekeepers, keeping peace. However, I think they are now a significant minority group! Not just the occasional vehicle, but maybe 1 in 20! Peacekeepers sipping coffee on the waterfront. Peacekeepers taking photos of each other in front of sights. Peacekeepers wandering the streets armed to the hilt. Peacekeepers chatting on street corners. Generally, nothing to do, but just be ready.

We caught a television sketch while on a bus. Santa Claus was travelling through Kosovo, and was now in trouble. A beret sporting soldier told the interpreter, “You tell him: only the United Nations can grant wishes in Kosovo, and once he admits he is not the authorised wish-bringer, we will let him go.”

A beautiful, though scarred, town. The mosques and the bridges, the shops and water-side cafes, the restaurants and the fountains; all contrasting sharply with the shells of burnt out houses and churches, the consequences of rioting in 2004.

Prizren

After visiting the 16th century mosque in Prizren’s centre, we were invited to climb the minaret. The steep winding stairs could be expected. The darkness could be expected (yes, despite the windows, which are every second rotation, it is pitch black in between, treachorously so). The pigeons were the unexpected hazard. Each step was ankle deep in pigeon shit and nest remains, not to mention occasional eggs. Disturbing the pigeons in the dark led to terrified birds trying to get to windows through the tight stairwell, flapping against the walls, squeezing through legs, hitting me in the face without warning, and tangling in my hair. Oh, and no free hands to hold ones nose! Nice view from the top, though…

Novi Pazar

Saturday, September 24th, 2005
24 Sep, 2005 It was meant to be an easy stop. Four buses a day make the trip from Novi Pazar on the border of Kosovo in to Prishtina, Kosovo's defacto capital. Surely we could visit the church, and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Proud Belgrade, and the surrounds

Saturday, September 24th, 2005
20 Sep -24 Sep, 2005 We had trouble finding accommodation that could sleep us for the entire time we were planning for Belgrade. European basketball finals, so the story was the same everywhere. Ended up in an acceptable place ... [Continue reading this entry]

Nish, Niš, Nis – First stop in Serbia

Tuesday, September 20th, 2005
20 Sep, 2005 We hadn't planned to overnight here, just visit. Rain dampened our enthusiasm to seek the cheapest accommodation - nearest became a priority, and we had one of our most expensive beds for a while. Buffet breakfast ... [Continue reading this entry]