Lanzarote, eastern Canaries, again
10 Dec – 13 Dec, 2005
Really, it would have been so much more logical if Lanzarote had been joined to Fuerteventura. The landscape is not hugely different, and the highspeed ferry ride is over quick enough that you easily forget that you have moved to another island.
Amazingly beautiful, in its stark and arid way. Hundreds (thousands?) of hectares of twisted and distorted lava shapes. A couple of small and hardy plants somehow surviving amongst it all, and even a couple of birds flitting about. This was best appreciated in the national park, Timanfaya.
And, it is still “happening” – OK, no lava was flowing, but just metres below the surface, the temperature is measured in hundreds of degrees. Even just disturbing the top layers brings gravel and rocks too hot to handle.
Well, we had to do it, then, and we ate at the restaurant, where the meat is grilled over hot volcanic rocks from below the ground. Accompanied by a couple of glasses of the local drop, and a view over the landscape of the national park.
Again, we based ourselves in the main town of the island. Arrecife. On each island, there appears to be a couple of places that exists for reasons other than tourism, and this seems to be a great way to experience a bit of local culture and avoid the resorts.
Coastal spot, Lanzarote
We went north, one day. Mirador del Rio with some wonderful views. Lava tubes tastefully turned into a bar and entertainment complex, Jameos del Agua. Lava tubes at Cueva de los Verdes. Cactus garden cum artwork.
Cactus park
What is interesting to see is the stone walls. Almost every plant and vine is grown behind a low stone shelter. Without these, the little plants would have little hope of survival in the face of the ferocious winds. In this environment, they need individual nurturing and care.
Independent traveller impressions, 2, after Lanzarote: Again, an inexpensive hire car was necessary to view all the things, as the bus network would mean a few more days might be required, and some things would be near impossible to get to without your own wheels. Lanzarote has managed to keep resort development under some sort of control, and those that we did seem appeared to be generally tasteful. Most importantly, they were avoidable. And groups? Yes, there were busloads at the national park, and even more at the caves in the north. But their stays were generally short and concise. Biggest gripe was the expenses! Really, 8 euros each for the caves, twice, 5 euros for the cactus garden, and 8 euros for the national park – about $100, and we actually skipped a few things that would have added more expense (mirador entry, Cesar Manrique’s house and collection, a museum). I can’t imagine that many people, particularly families, could afford to do everything. This is disappointing and a shame. With sights like these, you shouldn’t have to decide to do one at the expense of another for reasons of cost. But they are capitalising on the fact that most people are coming on short holidays and what’s a few more euros?
Tags: Canary Islands, Chile, Nature, Spain (and Canary Islands), Travel
Richard and Jo
March 29th, 2006 at 7:46 am
The grilled meat looks so special; it must be very delicious… The most excited thing on traveling is always the local food.