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La Palma, western Canaries

Wednesday, December 28th, 2005

13 Dec – 19 Dec, 2005

We moved straight to Fuencaliente, on the south of the island, without our luggage. We decided to fly from the eastern islands across, as we would have effectively lost a whole day taking ferries (about 20 hours) and not saved a significant enough sum. And besides, time is becoming much more precious than the money.

So, we were a tad disappointed that our bags did not make the same trip we did. The bags missed the connection (at Tenerife Norte) and would arrive around 3 o’clock. No probs, they would be sent down to the apartment where we were staying. Not worried yet, we rang to enquire at about 18:00. Concerned and a tad annoyed, we rang again at 21:00. Really annoyed and getting worried, we rang again the next morning. We bought a change of clothes and some toiletries, courtesy of the airline. Pissed off and confused, we rang twice more. Eventually, about 26 hours after we arrived, we were informed that our bags had indeed been delivered. The driver had left them at a bar down the road, at 18:00 the night before!?!?! And nobody seemed to find it appropriate to convey that message to us!!!!

La Palma is an amazing contrast to the eastern islands, and contains amazing contrasts within itself. There are barren areas where the lava flows of recent erruptions (like, 1970’s) have added to the island’s side, and being a very wet island, some extremely fertile spots as well. Ironically, equally, because of the eruptions!

Near where we were staying, Fuencaliente, there are a couple of easily visited volcanic cones, including the two which have blown in the last couple of centuries, and as late as 1977.

In the interior is the amazing Caldera de Taburiente. A cauldron of cliffs, up to 2000 metres, 6 or more kilometres wide, and full of green. One day, we did a few hikes up around the rim. The next, we went, right in to the heart of the caldera, entering via the gorge that is the only real break in cliff walls.

Caldera de Taburiente

Caldera de Taburiente

Caldera de Taburiente

Caldera de Taburiente

La Palma has some nice beaches on the west coast, with black volcanic sand, and beautiful sunsets at Puerto Naos accompanied our afternoon cocktails. 😀

And north of Santa Cruz de La Palma, where we moved to for the last two nights (due to the hideously early ferry we needed to catch) there are some more nice walks to higher reaches. The forest at Los Brecitos is beautiful, and we had an excellent vantage point over the protected reserve on a tall rocky outcrop, where we just stood and just listened to the hundreds of birds, watching them scooting around the treetops far below us.

Los Brecitos
Los Brecitos

Santa Cruz de La Palma
Santa Cruz de La Palma

Independent traveller impressions, 3, after La Palma: Still extemely happy with our island choices. Of course, the hiking is amazing, and there were two mini bus loads who began the 6 hour trail at the same time as us. We scooted off before they began, and we never saw hide nor hair of them after that. With great walking, and a pretty good bus system, one could get by without a car, although this allows a bit more flexibility.

Posted in Hiking / Going Bush, Nature, Spain (and Canary Islands), Travel | 1 Comment »

Lanzarote, eastern Canaries, again

Wednesday, December 28th, 2005

10 Dec – 13 Dec, 2005

Really, it would have been so much more logical if Lanzarote had been joined to Fuerteventura. The landscape is not hugely different, and the highspeed ferry ride is over quick enough that you easily forget that you have moved to another island.

Amazingly beautiful, in its stark and arid way. Hundreds (thousands?) of hectares of twisted and distorted lava shapes. A couple of small and hardy plants somehow surviving amongst it all, and even a couple of birds flitting about. This was best appreciated in the national park, Timanfaya.

Road through lava, Lanzarote

Timanfaya

Timanfaya

And, it is still “happening” – OK, no lava was flowing, but just metres below the surface, the temperature is measured in hundreds of degrees. Even just disturbing the top layers brings gravel and rocks too hot to handle.

Well, we had to do it, then, and we ate at the restaurant, where the meat is grilled over hot volcanic rocks from below the ground. Accompanied by a couple of glasses of the local drop, and a view over the landscape of the national park.

Thermal energy cooking chicken

Again, we based ourselves in the main town of the island. Arrecife. On each island, there appears to be a couple of places that exists for reasons other than tourism, and this seems to be a great way to experience a bit of local culture and avoid the resorts.

Lanzarote
Coastal spot, Lanzarote

We went north, one day. Mirador del Rio with some wonderful views. Lava tubes tastefully turned into a bar and entertainment complex, Jameos del Agua. Lava tubes at Cueva de los Verdes. Cactus garden cum artwork.

Cactus park, Lanzarote
Cactus park

What is interesting to see is the stone walls. Almost every plant and vine is grown behind a low stone shelter. Without these, the little plants would have little hope of survival in the face of the ferocious winds. In this environment, they need individual nurturing and care.

Independent traveller impressions, 2, after Lanzarote: Again, an inexpensive hire car was necessary to view all the things, as the bus network would mean a few more days might be required, and some things would be near impossible to get to without your own wheels. Lanzarote has managed to keep resort development under some sort of control, and those that we did seem appeared to be generally tasteful. Most importantly, they were avoidable. And groups? Yes, there were busloads at the national park, and even more at the caves in the north. But their stays were generally short and concise. Biggest gripe was the expenses! Really, 8 euros each for the caves, twice, 5 euros for the cactus garden, and 8 euros for the national park – about $100, and we actually skipped a few things that would have added more expense (mirador entry, Cesar Manrique’s house and collection, a museum). I can’t imagine that many people, particularly families, could afford to do everything. This is disappointing and a shame. With sights like these, you shouldn’t have to decide to do one at the expense of another for reasons of cost. But they are capitalising on the fact that most people are coming on short holidays and what’s a few more euros?

Posted in Nature, Spain (and Canary Islands), Travel | No Comments »

Fuerteventura, eastern Canaries

Wednesday, December 28th, 2005
8 Dec - 10 Dec, 2005 Before writing about individual expeniences, we should point out in advance, that we had received mixed messages about the Canary Islands. While some seasoned travellers told us to avoid them and were horrified we ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Animals, Architecture, Nature, Spain (and Canary Islands), Travel | 1 Comment »

Tapas!

Wednesday, December 28th, 2005
6 Dec - 8 Dec, 2005 A small layover in Madrid. Two nights. Iosu, whom we met in Peru, was our host. When he said there would be space, we didn't expect him to give us his room, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Food, Friends, Spain (and Canary Islands), Travel | No Comments »