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War torn Mostar, to break your heart in Bosnia and Hercegovina

Friday, September 30th, 2005

29 Sep – 30 Sep, 2005

Recovery is slow for a town like Mostar. Here we encountered our first real dose of war scars. And while the medieval landmark bridge of Mostar has been reconstructed, for many buildings, only the most cursory of repairs has been undertaken. Many buildings along the former frontline await bulldozing. Those which can be inhabited have had their windows replaced and, assumedly, been repaired on the inside. In some cases, the thousands of external artillery pockmarks in the concrete have been filled in and painted over, but this is the exception rather than the rule.

War torn Mostar War torn Mostar

War torn Mostar Cat in the ruins, Mostar

The bridge itself, the symbol of unity in a formerly divided city, is extremely picturesque. Diving the 20 something metres into the river below is still undertaken, although standing on the span and looking down, I can hardly believe that people do it. We did witness one person leap in to the river below. When it is known that someone will jump, crowds gather and cheer and clap their encouragement. This has been a tradition for hundreds of years, and certificates awarded to divers are brandished by local men to impress the girls.

Reconstructed Mostar Bridge

A highlight was a short movie at the museum, showing the bridge before the war, and the dare devils diving. Then, the bridge being used during the conflict. Most moving of all was the footage of the bridge being blown up and falling down in 1993. A short piece about the salvage works post 2000 was rounded off by the (re)opening ceremonies of 2004.

The bridge is in the centre of town, with a Turkish quarter leading up to it. Suddenly, we felt we were back in Istanbul, with one significant exception. The people were not overly pushy. What a delight to be able to browse through their wares without being continually imposed upon. And what is more, when you smiled politely and replaced the item on their table, they smiled back and wished you a nice day.

There are a couple of cemeteries in town, full of 1993 graves. Unrepaired buildings nearby add an eerie backdrop to such a sad sight.

“the Pearl of the Adriatic” – Lord Byron

Wednesday, September 28th, 2005

28 Sep, 2005

Dubrovnik. Try to dodge the hordes of tourists. Best achieved by spending hours on the magnificent walls. Especially towards the end of the day. You can sit and watch the crowds dwindle as the groups leave by the main gate to be shuttled by buses to their hotels, or by the gate on the docks, to be shuttled by launches back to their cruise boats. Added advantage of being up there late is to catch the late sun bathing the town in a soft glow.

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik

Balkan coast – no better start than Kotor

Tuesday, September 27th, 2005
26 Sep - 27 Sep, 2005 Kotor - or Cat-or as you cannot help but notice the high population of felines. A real jem. And not just the town, the setting, too. Set on a large fjord. ... [Continue reading this entry]

What for, KFOR – We continue through Kosovo

Monday, September 26th, 2005
Sep 26, 2005 Anti-Serbian sentiments are not too hard to come by. Blatant lies about where to find Serbian monasteries, and taxis that refuse to bring you anywhere in the vicinity. We visited two significant monasteries during the course ... [Continue reading this entry]

Coffee keeps the peace in Prizren, Kosovo

Monday, September 26th, 2005
25 - 26 Sep, 2005 We were ready for the KFOR presence. Peacekeepers, keeping peace. However, I think they are now a significant minority group! Not just the occasional vehicle, but maybe 1 in 20! Peacekeepers sipping ... [Continue reading this entry]

Novi Pazar

Saturday, September 24th, 2005
24 Sep, 2005 It was meant to be an easy stop. Four buses a day make the trip from Novi Pazar on the border of Kosovo in to Prishtina, Kosovo's defacto capital. Surely we could visit the church, and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Proud Belgrade, and the surrounds

Saturday, September 24th, 2005
20 Sep -24 Sep, 2005 We had trouble finding accommodation that could sleep us for the entire time we were planning for Belgrade. European basketball finals, so the story was the same everywhere. Ended up in an acceptable place ... [Continue reading this entry]

Nish, Niš, Nis – First stop in Serbia

Tuesday, September 20th, 2005
20 Sep, 2005 We hadn't planned to overnight here, just visit. Rain dampened our enthusiasm to seek the cheapest accommodation - nearest became a priority, and we had one of our most expensive beds for a while. Buffet breakfast ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bulging in Bulgaria

Monday, September 19th, 2005
15 Sep - 19 Sep, 2005 Oh, how we ate. Valentin and Mariana fed us well. Do you remember Valentin, our "policeman" friend? He and his family looked after us so wonderfully when we were robbed in Bulgaria ... [Continue reading this entry]

You just wouldn’t believe how much history a small group of islands can have

Wednesday, September 14th, 2005
5 Sep - 14 Sep, 2005 Malta. Actually a small archipelago, not just the one island. This little group has been a real important for well over a milenium, with history that goes back over 7000 years. These ... [Continue reading this entry]