Not Approved by LP

Back in a wet and misty Sapa for which it is so famous for.  Even the colour of the valley and rice paddies now just a memory as the field have been cut and a winter feel taking hold.  Paradoxically this is the time when the foreign tourists starting to come.

Left Diem Bien Phu for Lau Chau.  If the state of the bus is any guide to the journey ahead, this was a good test and proved to be the case.  A knackered looking thing but proved most adept at high speed around the mountain bends.  The first part of the journey very rough and dusty, the area very poor and not a lot to see.  Then did improve with a surprising amount of forests on the hillsides and fairly coulourful.  But like here, as the rice is cut then they burn the stalks and all you get is smoked filled valleys and little colour.

After Muong Ley the driver insisted I sit at the front to enjoy the scenery, not something I normally choose in Vietnam, in fact as far back as possible is my choice.  And it wasn’t a good start as within minutes flames flared up as the electrics caught fire, taking an oil can and rubbish with it.  Amusingly the first thing the driver checked after repairs was the horn as we always joke is it possible to drive in Vietnam without a horn.Then 2 further delays for landslides meant it was getting late and I guess the driver didn’t fancy a night ride in the mountains.  So for the next 3 hours it was foot down, hold on tight, blow that horn and tear around those mountain bends.  In fairness the driver knew every bump and bend and was very good but would have made a great video just watching him drive with the amount of movement he was putting in, arms flying everywhere as he battled the steering wheel.  Made it to Lao Chau in the dark but was an impressive effort.

Next day it was over the mountains which I climbed a few weeks ago and still looked equally impressive.  This time the driver was extremely cautious, not surprising given the tortuous never ending hairpin bends.  But the views somewhat lost in the clouds but nice enough.  But it was sad to see at one tight bend,  police and motorcyclists standing at a point where the barrier had been taken out and someone had obviously just gone over and the driver used the word for “foreigner”, a timely warning of what can happen.

Tomorrow head off to BacHa.

Left SonLa for the trip over the mountains to here DBP.  Bus journey harder than I expected, over 6 hours on a hot dusty bus on some fairly rough mountain road.  A new road is under construction but only added to the dust and with recent bad weather making parts very slow.  But some nice scenery and very colourful hilltribes who do well to remain colourful given some of the conditions.  The area probably deserves more tourist development but maybe the rip off attitude of those in the tourist front line discourageous people from lingering too long.

DBP itself modern and dusty and is more significant for its historical interest.  It is where the French were soundly beaten and led to the end of their trip to Asia in 1954..  Did the sightseeing bit  around the important sites and museum and all pleasant enough but more of interest to the Vietnamese and French than others.  At least locals friendly. few dogs and some good coffee to make the journey worthwhile.

Have got behind on the blogs but other than doing the rabies shots, catching up with friends and waiting for good weather all fairly quiet.  Once remarked to a friend whilst staying in CatBa that the world could have ended and we wouldn’ even know.  Still that way with the tv only concentrating on important things like football and totally avoids serious topics like news – at least in English but assume the worlds financial system still intact as haven’t seen anyone jumping off balconies, in fact no change at all.

Left CatBa and stayed in Hanoi.  Then made my way north to MaiChau.  On paper shouldn’t have been that complicated but this is Vietnam and so got the usual misleading info, lies, totally  ripped off  – again and again and by the end wondered why I ever leave CatBa ( where the rip offs are just as bad but at least I know them).  My bus from HaDong ( long story) to MauChai dumped me in Hoa Binh despite charging me the fare to Bejing.  Took another bus for MauChai and when the bus conductress picked up a machete, run out the bus and let fly with  someone on another bus, decided she wasn’t a person to argue with.  Until she told me how much she wanted for the fare and then for once I decided I was going to make a last stand and refused.  So on a mountain in the middle of nowhere insisted she could let me out and I would walk.  As it was she refused  to let me out so the next half hour spent in a battle of wills.  Finally a compromise was reached – probably only double the real price  – and we became best friends and she insisted we stop for photos on the view point overlooking MauChai….Vietnam!.

MauChai dominated by people of the Thai ethnic group and like their fellow Thais have that niceness that sometimes would be appreciated here.  Despite being a popular tourist destination the people easy going and friendly.  Some lovely scenery amongst the surrounding mountains with the paddyfields and water buffaloes.  Stayed in a native village where homestays in stilted open houses the norm instead of guest houses. As it was I stayed in someones house and personally would prefer a guesthouse as probably over the years done my share of sleeping on bamboo floors.  And here tourist development has taken them way beyond the ethnic experience.  But enjoyable enough, pleasant village with the locals weaving pretty clothes and things to sell and some nice walks. Only bad point was the ferocious mosquitoes who were not only in very large numbers but very hungry and made using a mosquito net essential.

Today came to SonLa, a nice journey thru the mountains and ethnic villages with colourful people.  Road better than I expected despite and except a few bumpy bits and tight bends a pleasant trip and only charged the Hanoi – SonLa fare which at the moment seems quite a bargain.

SonLa, according to LP was where U.S bombers dropped unused ordinance on their return from bombing raids so not a place to expect much in the way of sights.  But pleasant place, modern and  with ethnic people to provide colour and interest and a useful stop off point.

Tomorrow head to Diem Bien Phu, near the Laos border and a famous historical place as where the French suffered their final defeat leading to their withdrawal – only for the good olde U.S of A to then take their turn at saving the world from socialism, the nationalisation of the banking system and soup kitchens !.

Since the last update not a lot has happened.  Got the last boat back to CatBa before the cyclone in the region shut the place down for a few days.  Heavy rain and wind followed and numerous power cuts but nothing serious.  But seems a lot worse up north where I am planning to go next with very heavy flooding and they were only just recovering from the last one.  Also saw another on its way from the Philippines but not sure of its direction. So my stopover in CatBa wasn’t that successful given the weather, the dog bite and the hotel manager losing the plot on a vodka fueled death wish. And the doctor and hospital refused to visit, surprising given the money making opportunities for them. 

 Back in Haiphong to finish my rabies shots, the last one being tomorrow. Then once I am sure the weather is going to be ok will head back north next week.

Vacinations for rabies and other vacs can be had at 140 Tran Phu, opposite park.  Both hospitals I tried passed me so best to head there and quick and easy.

Still here.  Had planned to go to BacHa but foot been a problem.  At least my hotel room has a nice balcony overlooking the mountains  and rice terraces,  so with a good book life not too bad.

 Then today for some reason volunteered myself to go and cut rice.  Luckily it clouded over after a while and thunder so good excuse to head back before doing too much damage to myself.  Not difficult but hard on the back bending over after a while and a few blisters on the hands.  I feel the Vietnamese should give me a free visa extension after showing such good socialist willingness.

 The terraces themselves losing their splendour as the rice is cut and the stubble burnt so smoke fills the valley.  But hopefully a few good photos to take back.

Probably head back to Hanoi Tuesday for that bain in life, visas.  Hopefully can get another or will have to leave the country next weekend.

Got back from my climb of Mount Fansipan yesterday.  The first day we climbed up to 2800 metres.  Wasn’t too bad, some nice views and didn’t rain despite some heavy clouds.  Mostly the route ok, walking thru bamboo forests.  We then camped there which was nice but the night much colder than I was expecting and without a jacket or blankets led for a sleepless night.  Then a hike to the summit at 3145 metres.  Hard going, very wet and slippery on the ground and I only had sandals which weren’t really up to the job as slipping and sliding everywhere and took a heavy fall hiting my knee on rocks.  But the views and feeling of making it to the top far outweighed the discomfort.

Then it was for a long decent down.  We had opted to do it in one go rather than spend another night on the mountain  so a hard day and as so often is the case in these situations the guide was more interested in getting down as quickly as possible rather then enjoying the trek and showed his displeasure every time we stopped.  To make it worse my foot was heavily blistered by now and in a bit of a mess and very painful.  But we were down by 2.30pm so not a bad effort and well worth it.

Now a couple of days to relax and hopefully a chance for my foot to recover as struggling to walk at the moment.

Never made the motorbike trip as yet.  Instead of an easy Sunday afternoon, decided to trek around some other villages.  They have just started cutting the rice and it was so colourful I decided to spend more time here.  Then got chatting to one of the girls about doing a homestay and ended up next day treking to her village and then up the mountain to where her family live and spent last night at her house.  Not exactly a homestay as those places more like guest houses in the village where as this was certainly a home stay without too many comforts but wonderful and no shortage of chickens, pigs , buffalos and dogs.  The weather was excellent, the mountainside in its full glory with the rice terraces at their most scenic and the people very hospitable despite not being used to foreigners.  We did some great walking and excellent photos.  Was even able to inform that it was her 19th birthday according to her id card so she went from being 17 according to her the previous day to 19 in one go,  bypassing a whole year !.  The Black Hmong don’t celebrate birthdays so all irrelevant to them.

Then today treked back to Sapa.  Had planned on a couple of days to recover but then was talked into a 2 day climb of Mount Fansipan tomorrow, the highest mountain in Vietnam. Given my total lack of gear I hope the weather will be good otherwise it could be extremely hard going.  But too late now so can only hope.

Taken a break from tramping around mountains and paddyfields and a chance to clean out footwear after too many knee deep falls into the paddy – very smelly ones at that ! – lucky I bought new shoes in Hanoi, well christened now and can probably still smell them in Hanoi.  Last night mid autumn festival and had the school children carting floats around the place and concerts, from the looks of it in celebration of Uncle Ho ( I would hazard a guess more by the local Viet population than the hilltribes ).

Today market day and the locals put on their Sunday best and pretty to the see the local ethnic kids in their colourful outfits.  There are much bigger and more famous markets in the area but out of laziness didn’t make it further afield.  Instead been helping the local kids with their emails and hopefully some happy faces if they check their bank accounts where well wishes sent money.

If the weather stays good hope to hire a motorbike/driver tomorrow and head across the mountains but I gather some very rough roads and given the rains in August could be fun.

Still enjoying the fresh cool air of the mountains in Sapa.  Lots of good walking opportunities in the mountains and the colourful hilltribe villages and various ethnic groups provide plenty of visual interest.  Even enjoy Sapa as lots of the ehnic groups come to sell their wares and the place has an easy going relaxed feel even if the constant hassle to buy can be monotonous.  Fortunately after a couple of days they ease of !.  Tomorrow is market day so should be busy as people come in from the surrounding area.