Not Approved by LP

I notice on the meat stalls they leave the dogs head so at least you can choose your favourite brand.  But I wonder whether you get the kids going to their mum “look mum, theres Fido” – actually I lie because when I stayed at the Hmong girls house in TaVan and asked the dogs name , she said dogs don’t have names , only the water buffaloes.  Wonder what is the most common water buffalo name is.

Anyway BacHa still quiet but market day tomorrow so I guess that is when all the tourist hordes come into town and locals from the hills.  Other than that a surprisingly quiet town.  Some places are busy in the day and lively at night, others quiet in the day and lively at night, BacHa just stays dead at any time bar Sunday I guess.  But lots of building work going on so someone must have great ambitions for the place.  I even had to get the the hotel to turn the tv satellite on, they said they turn it off in the week as don’t get guests. The good thing was it does pick up BBC World and after a month of no news good to hear the world is still going around, just. The bad news after a day you realise how tedious BBC World is with the same few clips shown constantly.  Send Russell Brand and Jonathon Ross there, they could say what they like and no one would notice and provide the rest of us with some much needed entertainment. 

After not that great an impressions of the place have got to like BacHa for its great hill ( not sure if they are mountains or hills)  walking.  Can wander for hours totally lost thru the hills with some lovely scenery, paddyfields and extremely colourful locals.  Has been wet and usually very muddy but wandering thru the little hamlets and hilltribe houses with the chickens , pigs ,water buffaloes and sweet colourful kids –  great.  Admittedly also get the snarling dogs who seem to have an exaggerated sense of territorial rights and I can feel quite guilty when I pick up a rock to throw at their snarling mutt only for a little kid to walk out wondering what all the fuss is all about.  But for the most part the houses deserted as the locals work in the fields and the children in the schools.  And to the countrys credit, whereas the major infractrusture is surprisingly poor between the cities, in the rural areas its very good with schools in the smallest villages and a lot of effort going into roads and drainage etc even if a constant battle with the weather.

So tomorrow market day when everybody comes to town and then expect to move on Monday.

The sun finally came out after a week of rain upon leaving Sapa.  Went to Lao Cai and then here, BacHa.  According to the guidebook the road was meant to be good but the heavy recent rains made it a mudbath in places and made for a slow , slippery journey thru the mountains but scenery nice.

BacHa more famous for its Sunday market than as a weekday destination but over time many travellers have recommended it over touristy Sapa.  Upon arrival I was wishing I was back in touristy Sapa.  BacHa a modern non descript town lacking the colour and charm of Sapa and without the delightful Black Hmong girls ( I use the word girl lucidly, any girl between the ages of 1 and a 100 ) “harressing” one with their charm and wonderful use of English and quick wit the place quite boring.  Having not eaten a barbeque for ages I decided to try one. It wasn’t until the girl had put the meat on to grill for a couple of minutes that I jokingly pointed to a dog and said is that the meat.  She nodded yes – so I had 2.  Actually tasted quite nice but a bit strong for my tastes but if the economy gets too bad you know where to look …

 Today when out into the hills and changed my mind about the place completely.  Here the ethnic group is Flower Hmong and as ethnic groups go must be one of the most colourful in their beautiful multi coloured clothing.  And unlike Sapa no tourists around and all very quiet- admittedly weekends very different when all the tourists come for the market.  However people surprisingly shy – or maybe fed up with tourists with cameras – and even the sight of a camera had them running, however nothing unususal with ethnic groups and no point in pushing the issue even if in their colour would make lovely snaps. But all told a very nice day in the sun, good scenery and lovely people and hopefully more of the same tomorrow.  

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