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Got an early bus to Chengdu. As overcrowded , hot and horrendously polluted as this place always seems to be. Guess wouldnt be so bad if coming from another Chinese city but from the mountains its all a bit stressful. Staying at Sims cozy gh, not a bad place, has a nice chill out garden and cold beer however Sim now moved on. One good thing about Chengdu , good food at last so can pig out. Also so cheap compared to the mountains – just shame you dont get the views.
Fly out back home tomorrow.

Enjoyed my time in Kanding. The place kind of grew on me with its mix of Tibetan and Chinese cultures in an uneasy balance. Actually I found the place very friendly and easy going with its mixture of monks, tibetans and chinese and couldn’t feel safer. It was the fact there is rarely a police car further than 30 metres away and enough paramilitaries to ensure perfect harmony that left me wondering. Will British towns and cities look this way in 10 years time with our Read the rest of this entry »

My final hike took me to frog lake. A couple of chinese hired horses and with me walking our guides took us to a very peaceful route to another lake. Quite a lot of going up hence the horses but i enjoyed the hike and felt very fit. Next day it was the trip to Daocheng then yesterday to here Kanding. It was much prettier with more snow around but in Kanding that was rain.
The original plan was to return to my old faves of Tagong and Danba but with so much time spent in Yading something has to be missed. Always the problem with short holidays.
But overall thouroughly recomend the route. Some people on blogs rated Yading higher than Juizhaogou and Torres del Paine which had even Jeremy Clarkson grabbing the camera. Having seen those two in the full glory of autumn it is prohably unfair of me to make the comparison. I would say they are more scenic but here has the cultural mix thrown in which makes for a great all round trip. Anyway sun just come out so will check Kanding out on a quiet Sunday.

Next day the weather turned poor with snow showers so I decided to return and get some different pics. This time I waited for the bus and having had potato soup the previous night felt much stronger and was quickly alone. This time much easier as my body acclimatised but incredibly cold by the time I reached milk lake as the snow fell and wind blew but wonderful in its own away. Then the sun made a brief entry and lovely views as I again chilled out at the top of 5 color lake. Again only 2 people eventually followed. With a chinese couple had a good night that night drinking beer outside in the snow and next morning agreed to go with them back up the mountain. By the time we were at Lurong pature we had formed a little group and I was the tour guide. By now my body was totally at ease with the conditions and it was really enjoyable just to take it all in. As we neared milk lake I wanted to try a new route by scrambling up a 200 odd meter scree slope and then follow the ridge to 5 colour lake then back down to milk lake. I told them this was my plan and anyone could join me or else just follow the path. As it was they all very bravely followed. There was probably a half hour gap between me and the last of them getting to the top but I had to admire there bravery as it really hurt. When it comes to pride its hard to beat the Chinese, Japanese and Koreans, they don’ t give up. Once there the best views made it all worth it and they were all thankful, that great sense of achievement, personally I was thankful there were no altitude casualties admitedly some used the oxygen cyclinders.

Now this is where it all goes wrong at least in the off season. Transport is controlled by the company that brings people in from the tourist center which effectively means Daocheng which means no bus until 10.30 am or so. Or just walk the 5km which I did. Then at the start point there are electric golf carts which whizz you along the 7 km to Lurong Pasture. On the blog sites these get critised, yes its cheating but….Altenatively as per the previous day there is an excellent walkway. I reached Lurong Pasture to a perfect blue sky and the views stunning. Massive snow covered mountains towering into the heavens. This being March you didnt have the colours of the trees but in place of that the total tranquility of being alone. From then the hiking started. Gone were all the walkways and signs, this was just a very hard slog gasping for breath. The lack of food due to the recent stomach prohlems took it out of me and as I got higher I felt every step. There were no signs and at one point a rock slide had covered the path I thought. So I scrambled over the rocks and continued but despite the rubbish could find no path. Alone and lost realised I had to turn back. Fortunately a Chinese hiker came along and it turned out we had to sramble upwards. This mistake was made by many others and brought many to tears. We then made it to milk lake, a glorious lake at 4400m ishsurrounded by much higher mountains. After a few photos cloud started to roll in so I desperately tried to get to the final destination 5 colour lake. The distant wasn’t great but every step up was a killer and as I finally made it the cloud rolled in but still awesome . As it was only another chinese guy and a korean made it up to the final destination. It was tough but worth it and the decent a lit easier. And finished with a nice cold beer back up the guest house.

Left Daocheng for the 2 hour trip to Yading. You get dropped of at Shangri la where you buy your ticket then a bus takes everyone the 31 kms to Yading village and then the start point. We stopped at Yading village , dumped our bags at a guest house then carried onto the start point. Then a leisurely walk to pearl lake and good views. The walk is easy with a metal walkway and plenty of seats which is handy in the oxyygen starved altitude. After expecting the usual crowds was surprised how we were the only people. For anyone planning a visit sunblock and hat a must, mine were at the guest house and suffered for it. We then all went back to Yading village. Its no more than a few tibetan houses converted into guest houses but a wonderfully friendly and charming place and came as a complete surprise. Loved it there and the people great and excellent photo opportunities . That night was high spirited with the Chinese and Tibetans having a good sing and dance so good entertainment. The room was ok, food basic but a store sells a few basics and oxygen cannisters which the Chinese liked to use. Whereas the village is tiny there is a massive construction boom so with Chinese investment it will become very different. However given the buldings are being built in the traditional tibetan way and in the communal way with young and old , male and female all working together it wasn’t quite the disaster it could be. And give them credit they really work hard, singing and chanting as they build block by block these massive stone houses all without modern equipment. They would go on to 7pm despite the freezing conditions and snow. The rest of us mere mortals would sit around the fire even if I tended to stay outside and enjoy the fine views with a very cold beer as the horses would wander past and locals come and join me or chat with fellow Chinese toursts.

Back in the real world after arriving back in Kanding last night. Was planning on heading to Danba today but weather turned miserable and feel like a lazy day so will catch up with life and then head to the bright lights of Chengdu at some point.
So Yading. When I was in here in 2007 I didn’t really know about the place and given the extrobitant entrance fees opted for the more famous Juizhagou. This trip the original plan was to go to Aba but politics got in the way. So with research I came across Yading, an area I knew I love with its wonderful colour and culture. Its turns out that since 2007 the Chinese have also sussed that one out. Bar a couple of mountain passes where they havent finished tunneling its a great road. I would say the plan is to make it an iconic route like route 66. There will be mass tourism to this western frontier and will be a favourite with cyclists and motorcyclists. How long before tour de france style cycle events ?. And coming from the UK we all know how “development” and mass migration is such a wonderful thing so this can only be good – as Gordon Brown would say to anyone disagreeing, they are just racist bigots. And here there are more than enough police to ensure that that there will not be any disagreement. At least there isn’t the usual UK aid funded signs but then I guess there wouldn’t be a road as the money would be in a Swiss bank account. So yes this is a political project which is bringing Chinese money into hotels and businesses and making the journey much more agreeable despite the mind blowing high altitude. At least you know to slow down because school children crossing the road and that shop does welding – it is that well sign posted in English. And in the park French as well.

Having plannned to leave this morning sickness left me staying the extra day. So Doacheng, as everyone knows is famous for having the highest altitude airport in the world!. Probably not a good idea to be flying from low altitude to here but never mind.
Anyway had an enjoyable day wondering around this small Tibetan town with its friendly people and laid back feel. Helped by blue skies and spring sunshine just needed an open cafe/bar in the square to take it all in and people watch with colourful people and even more colourful buildings. Plenty of hotels so guess it gets busy in season or that is the plan but today certainly had an out of season feel. As with any where in China a huge amount of construction going on so as with the rest of this region change is coming fast.

Cont . the flip side is the Tibetans are less keen on their land becoking a Disney theme park. The batons,helmets and riot shields laid out at Litang bus station as were probably the huge convvoy of military vehicles possibly on there way to Tibe.
The only area I got any concern was at a police checkpoint entering Daocheng where they went off with my passport. March was always going to be risky but so far haven’t been turned back. Tomorrow off to Yading but probably wait a day if still sick.

Just been throwing my guts up after having diarhea all day. Just what I needed on a 12 hour bus journey. And the toilets at least at the bus stops are as bad as they get. Saying that there has been a massive change since my visit 2007. Lovely new buses, admitedly I prefer the old ones where you can open the window and take pics and get fresh air. The road is all new and top notch, lovely fast bends on quiet open roads. Sadly after the optimism of entertainment at the start when the driver said to put seat belts on after that I doubt he got out of second gear. Also last time you had the autumn colours and snow, this tike it was bitterly cold but dry and arid.
The Chinese have certainly invested lots of money and effort however, excellent signage in English and lots of little things like covered bus stops and probably far better toilets than we used. All very disneyesque and would be an easy place to travel with a hire car as they have made itt so used friendly. Cycling will probably become very popular in the summer. Guess the flip side is the Tibetans don’t want it turned in