Not Approved by LP

So the motorbike dropped me off at the bridge to the old town, I crossed over and went to the first building, a lovely old place and took a room with a balcony with excellent views. Unfortunately I hadn’t checked the water situation and instead of a nice hot shower it was a freezing cold bucket. But that at least refreshed me and within 25 minutes had found a nice bar.
Ended up staying 4 nights in Shangli, a chance to get over the jet lag and a relaxing place. Shangli from memory was one of the old tea horse stops going back centuries so has lots of old buildings and history. Also tend to get a bit of atmosphere as the Chinese use them as party towns. It is also an ideal base for visiting the Bifengxia panda base – it turned out this was where the truck had dropped me off and was a long way even when taking the minivan.
Bifengxia took over after Woolong was destroyed by the 2008 earthquake. Its in a lovely setting, set in forests and a deep gorge. The pandas themselves are probably better seen in Chengdu as the enclosures here not as nice and more spread out. However where as there you had packed crowds here come lunchtime I had the place to myself as even the staff went for their lunch. So I sat down had a coffee and as I sat there one of the pandas came out and climbed a tree and another walked up to me. It was so sweet in such a lovely setting. Then after I did a nice hike down the gorge along the river and thru the forest and back up the other side. Got back to the road and sat on the wall towait for the bus to take me back to the reception area. I put my bag on the wall next to me only for it to roll back and to my horror fall down then quickly descend under the road and on its way back down the gorge. Not only did it have a camera in it but all the sd cards rechargers kindle tablet and 2 jackets. My heart sunk but luckily it dropped about 30 meters and then stopped right on the ledge before the abyss below. One of the park guys kindly climbed down and I was extremely relieved plus some. But all told a good day.

Yesterday took the minivan back to YaAn then a 8 hour boring bus journey to Kading. At least this time I got a good hotel with the vip room and a chance to do some washing.
Tomorrow head for Daocheng in the middle of nowhere. Have covered some of the route previously and a lovely trip but high altitude so probably cold.
Will try to update where possible.

Unfortunately the tablet doesn’t load/work as it should but will struggle on.

So, took the 380 Qatar airline flight to Doha, great plane and not so many peple which was good. Qatar airlines as always very good even if food standards have dropped. It was then an older plane for the less travelled chengdu route but good enough.
Chengdu airport probably in need of an upgrade and knowing China there is probably one coming but got thru fairly quickly.
For anyone reading this blog searching for current info/ ideas I will include basic info as I am aware how little info is around for this region and appreciated what was out there. So from a plan of going into Chengdu I decided to give the smog and traffic a miss and check out the bus station at the airport. There is a China bank atm upstairs which is useful as gives a large amount and worked unlike the one in arrivals. And China is no longer cheap !.
The bus station is easy to find and usable/doable with some handy local destinations.
I took the bus for a 2 hour ish trip to YaAn. Unfortunately here it all got abit messy as I hadn ‘t planned for this – obviously to get a visa you have to have an arranged itinery and hotels ! – so I arrived as it was getting dark and pretty clueless. I realised the last minibus to Shangli had gone so ageed a price of 50y for a motorbike to take me there, at least that is what I thought. All he did was took me to another bus station and put me on a truck. So into the mountain we went then he dropped me off. I quickly figured this wasn’t Shangli as it was neither old or nice and here it got a bit complicated as all I had to go on was a bit of info that i had copied from someones blog but I wasn’t sure if the Chinese chacters referred to Shangli. But I showed peple the characters and they all pointed in the same direction despite looking concerned. The reason soon became apparent, I walked and walked and walked. For 2 hours along a windy dark road, eventually it was hard not to be a bit concerned.

A quick 3 week trip tp Sichuan to revisit the mountains. Arrive Chengdu Saturday March 14th.

Back on the tablet so apologies for any erors. Anyway realise why it is better to fly to bangkok rather than hanoi, here everybody goes to sleep by 11pm. Actually not quite as bad as before but after being hassled by police in 3 consecutive places eventually decided tonight not a good night for drinking. As opposed to the post Thaksin regime when the action would only just be starting. Given the time difference and a very hot evening a Thai gogo bar would be very welcome now. But did enjoy my first glimpse of Hanoi on a warm evening, still as chaotic as ever and yet to see a McDonalds or a waistline to match it. Probably the communists greatest success, keeping all that rubbish out and the diabetes etc to match. How much longer, probably not much.
Anyway so far so good given the potential pitfuls. My first attempt at using National Expresss from victoria to Heathrow not so impressive, were they using Mexican time or just typical ! London traffic but quite late, lucky had allowed extra time. Even more so given the security at Heathrow took an age. Luckily Cathay Pacific flight to the expected standard and the very quick changeover went to plan. Admittedly wouldn’t recommend doing at home given it involved a lot of walking, train transfer and a bus transfer, not what you need on a quickie changeover involving 2 different airlines But all credit to them they made it work.
Arriving Hanoi typical Vietnam. Taking the airport minibus to the center shouldn’t have been a major hassle yet as usual was. Having got in an empty minibus a big group of Vietnamese turned up so rather than going the usual route we got a magical mystery tour of Hanoi and the surrounds. I was eventually dumped somewhere back in Hanoi but didn’t have a clue where and more by luck made good use of my hiking training and found my way back to the old quarter.
So in desperate need of a hotel and beer did find somewhere unfortunately everytime I got a beer the police came along so had to make quick exits.
Anyway of to the beach tomorrow for a well earned rest

Come Wednesday September 11th will be flying back to Vietnam for a quickie holiday. For some reason flights were cheap on that day so no point wasting a good opportunity, So it will be a Cathay Pacific flight on Wednesday evening to Hong Kong. Hanoi will follow then a week on the beach in CatBa then all being well head to the mountains around HaGiang on the Chinese border. Think I deserve it having had to rush back from the Outer Hebrides to work 5 weeks.

A lazy Sunday morning in Ullapool as the rain comes down, admittedly a bit more exciting than planned as I just managed to prevent the tent going up flames. Gas stoves and tents not a good combination !.
Have enjoyed Ullapool, small but quaint located on the edge of Lock Bloom and surrounded by hills. Spent yesterday walking up and around these hills for a few hours and the sun stayed out so made for a pleasant day. Even the nightlife been more active than expected with a band from Southampton playing in one pub on Friday and another pub had a disco last night. Even a seal came in to the harbour to say hello.
In the bigger picture what should be a trip tomorrow towards the big mountains of Torridon and Kintail has had to be abandoned as need to return home. Sad as love this region and so much more to see but needs be. Even the dreaded midges haven’t been as bad as expected bar the first night in Ullapool and
weather generally good and the highlands without rain and mist just wouldn’t seem right.
Admittedly Friday had a massive storm which left some tents with their own ensuite swimmingpool.
So until next time……

An easy crossing on a very calm sea to Ullapool only to get a traditional Scottish welcome, rain and mist. But by the time we unloaded that had cleared up and a easy stroll to the campsite on the waters edge, lovely location and very convenient. Ullapool much smaller than expected but felt like a city after the Hebrides, a nice quaint place surrounded by hills. Only let down by the midgets which are quite ferocious and the tip of eating garlic for two weeks before was obviously made up by a French garlic salesman! . But a pleasant evening and a chance to go to a pub and some music. Has been lovely all morning but just about to go out and the rain starts, typical Scotland!

Back in the 3g internet world. After the misty journey up from Harris went to the west coast of isle of Lewis and its famed beaches. The sun came out and it was beautiful. Camped out on the sand dunes in a prime (exposed) position and chilled out for the next 16 nights. The west coast of Lewis is lovely, great white sandy beaches, lovely rocky coastline and good easy hillwalking. At least hard to get lost on a small island. The area a national scenic area and easy to see why.
By the Friday the weather turned and it blew gales, rain and mist and pretty cold as well whilst the radio never stopped going on about the heatwave across the country. But finally our turn came and the last week hot and sunny and even swimming in the sea. Admittedly then became very lazy and chilled out on breach and let the blisters recover.
Now in stornaway, about to go to ullapool on the mainland so a chance to pig out on unhealthy food like fish and chips and go to a pub for the first time in a while.

A good circular hike across Isle of Harris made for a pleasant day. Bit boggy but lovely lunar type landscape and totally deserted, really peaceful bar the sheep for company. Weather stayed dry but overcast so not so great for photos but good walking conditions. And to make it better someone gave me a bottle of isle of sky beer to now enjoy. Sadly pubs are lacking so miss out on a nice pint but the views make up for it.

Took a nice walk along the coast today but once again lousy weather, wet, windy and pretty miserable . Shame as lovely in a a desolate type of way. Felt a bit sorry for the sheep, they certainly got the short straw, probably dream of the South Downs. At least the weather better tonight, sun came out and went for a paddle in the sea, someone went for a swim but way too cold for that, bit like being in a freezer. Hopefully a good day tomorrow and the winds calm down.
Sat. Woke up to driving rain and gale force winds, tent took major battering. Spent the day hiding in the tent until 5pm and then the sun came out and it was lovely. A great place when the sun shines, wonderful white sandy beach surrounded by hills and camping on the grassy dunes, as good a setting as it gets. See what tomorrow holds