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A Saturday night is probably not the time when I should be updating my blog but today is a special day, the revered Kings birthday.  So the Thais are all wearing pink to show allegiance to their monarchy and doing their blessings etc and just threw a few fireworks in the air.  For us mere mortals in means a quiet day with no entertainment.  Actually that is not as bad as in the past as from memory alcohol used to be banned as well so we couldn’t even offer the King our best wishes.

Christmas is coming as are the masses.  The fairy lights are going up along with the Christmas trees and father christmas is showing his face so now beginning to look very colourful.  But I won’t be betting on any snow, a clear blue sky a safe bet I reckon.

All told have to admit Pattaya is the best I have probably known it, at least from a general tourist perspective.  The cheap and cheerful, rough and ready atmosphere is being replaced by far more quality bars, clubs and discos and good restaurants and shopping.  More importantly the powers that be seem to be allowing a more tolerant attitude whch allows the place to buzz into the early hours.  For too long especially under Thaksin ( the guy who installed Sven Ericcson as manager of Man City so entertainment obviously not his strong point) everyone expected to be in bed by midnight despite that being 5pm back home and numerous petty rules and never ending police raids in the bars often put a dampening on the place and made it pointless for the bars to invest for the future.  Hopefully thiis more tolerant attitude will continue but in reality these things change by the day and the size of the bribes.  And from a personal perspective, the good old days were when the Pound was worth something. Since Gordon Brown converted it into a peso currency the place is no longer cheap, just cheerful.

Should now be in Pattaya but yesterday had a change of plan.  Obviously too many distractions, easily happens here.  So now flying to Shenzhen in China on 10th December.  Not sure where that is and arrive 11pm which isn’t the best time to arrive but such is life.  So now a case of hanging around here waiting for the visa.  But could be worse and a friend arrived from the States on Sunday so good to catch up.  He did admit he was here a few months ago with an American girlfriend and she insisted they went to a ladyboy show.  Worse for him he was dragged on stage, she took a photo and then put it on Facebook !. How to lose credibillity with friends.  And he says she still keeps on going on about how beautiful they are.  Yesterday some young guys from England arrived at my hotel and being first timers wanted a bit of reaasurance.  Last night I met one coming into the hotel foyer with a girl.  He goes to me “mate, can you promise me this is a girl”, I go “you will soon find out”!.

From what I was told it is the government who put the 150 baht charge to use the ATM so cannot blame the banks on this one.  But to take out 10 pounds on the ATM using my Barclaycard means 6 pounds in bank charges before interest charges – bet they don’t tell you that in their advertisements so anyone coming here be warned.

Now in Pattaya enjoying the beautiful weather and the first chance to see a blue sky in  a while.

Journey over got off to a slow start as the plane got turned back at the runway for security reasons.  Then a dodgy looking guy was escorted off by the police.  After which we had to refuel, good to know the plane had plenty of extra fuel on board in case of emegencies – not.  So after a one and a half hour delay we finally took off and at least so plane was near empty so comfortable.  A quich dash at Doha to get the connecting flight and a fully packed plane but Qatar airlines do an excellent job on their very competitive fares and able to watch a good selection of movies.

Bangkok airport easy enough and no hassles but got a shock when I used the ATM.  150 baht – 3 pounds to use the ATM !!.  So then I tried another at which someone told me this is now on all of them.  Plus the transaction costs on top at home – wow.  Don’t let Gordon Brown find out otherwise he might bring it in in the U.K on the basis of global warming.

Pattaya its usual bustling self.  A never ending development story with even more shopping malls now open since my last visit.  Very much into making it a shopping fashion haven with all the big names. But doesn’t feel too crowded, at least got a balcony room in my hotel which is a first.

Out last night and the place still buzzes like no where else with its thousands of bars.  Plenty of beautiful girls – ok, most aren’t actually girls but the inexperienced wouldn’t know.  There seems an ever increasing number, not sure why, maybe its something to do with the ever increasing Russians or mabe because Pattaya now attracts more couples who in age of political correctness find it acceptable to go to bars with ladyboys but not with the real thing.  Or maybe there is just a demand for that type of thing.  But for me I checked out the Airport Agogo, the only airport I would choose to be in.  A new trend seems to be to make the girls wear outfits and whoever designed these costumes would win first prize, some great gear and very pleasing on the eye.  Obviously works as the place was packed.  Maybe Richard Branson could try it out.

Fly to Hanoi on Wednesday so in between another 3 quiet nights here !.

Finally arrived back after a delay because of the problems at Bangkok airport.  Even had a few good weeks of weather after so much rain.

For some photos of Vietnam go to:  

http://picasaweb.google.com/petefurlepa/CambodiaVietnam2008B#

Arrived to a wet Hanoi from the overnight train from Sapa.  Lots of water around and all the way to Haiphong very wet and the sea on the Haiphong side a sludge brown colour.  Yet arrived in CatBa to blue skies and and lovely weather and remarkably they have missed all the bad weather.  For the past week it has been blue skies and sunshine and perfect weather.  Even the sea crystal clear even if at low tide someone seems to have stolen the water – probably all in Hanoi !.

They even have just finally put in a ATM machine, just a shame all I have is rapidly depreciating pounds in my account which seem to be worth less against the dong as everyday goes by.  But given the building going on here – and generally in Vietnam –  there is no hint of a global slowdown and everyone seems very happy with business.  And I am sure the unbrella business has had a great year.

The good news is the ducks are happy, for anyone else I wouldn’t recommend Vietnam at the moment.  At least I am getting intensive training in for returning to a cold wet U.K shortly.  Stayed in BacHa for a further 2 nights as weather lousy.  Then decided to return to Sapa and see what the weather did, at least Sapa has a bit more life. Was hoping it would improve and could do a tour of the mountains in N.E Vietnam but finally given up hope and decided to head back to Hanoi and spend my final time on the beach in CatBa. 

Conditions from BacHa bad on the roads and the rivers very high and heavy rain.  But yesterday decided to grin and bear it and did a final hike into the hills.  At least here the paths are good and easy to stop and get refreshments on the way and let the rains pass over.  All told good fun even if wet and muddy.  Must remember to bring wellington boots the next time I come here.

Today woke up and saw something as rare as a comet, blue sky and sun. I probably should have taken a picture as looking outside now it is going to …. it down.  Later take the train to Hanoi and then onto CatBa. After a break there its a quick stop in Thailand and then home.

So this basically wraps it all up assuming no problems.  So after nearly 2 years away bar 2 short breaks in England will be back for a cold English winter, luckily no acclimatisation problems. And given I gather prudent Brown has done the dream of every Scotsman and followed a scortched earth policy of England I guess it will be my last travels for quite a while. Never thought I would be happier to have Vietnamese dong in my pockets than English pounds !, sums it up really.

Rain, rain, rain and lots of mud ….. welcome to Vietnam.  In fairness looking at the news on tv it is a lot better here than the likes of Hanoi etc.  At least we don’t need boats to get along the highstreet and I haven’t seen anyone fishing from their roofs.  But give it time ….plenty more forecast.  So the moral of the story is avoid the dry season !.

Saturday did get out and about in the hills for a nice trek.  But managed to get completely lost and at that point the skies opened and the clouds closed in so all the landmarks disappeared.  So for 3 hours spent scrambling amongst the paddyfields, trails often fading out at someones house, slipping and sliding up and down hills often deep in mud as the trials became one big mudslide.  And it was amazing as everytime ended up flat on my back there would be a roar of laughter from kids somewhere. Very hard going and as the afternoon  drew to a close did start to think would have to spend a night away from the comforts of my hotel.  But eventually found the main trail and got back to a nice hot bath – one of the luxuries of my hotel and certainly nice to have here.

 Next day was market day but non stop rain meant it was another wet muddy affair and by the time the tour buses arrived from Sapa the tourist out numbered the locals, who were probably sensibly at home. But nice and the people in their Sunday best so no shortage of colour. It did eventually stop raining and I thought it would be nice to go for a wander in the hills and catch people out and about..  But once off the main trails it again turned to thick mud and impossible to maintain grip so had another slippery journey back to BacHa. 

Since then it has rained continously so little chance to move on as road conditions must be horrendous and elsewhere probably in worse shape. Would like to cross the mountains to N.E Vietnam but the roads there are meant to be very bad on a good day and at the moment one can only wonder.  But option B of the train to Hanoi doesn’t look hopeful given its under water,  water supplies contaminated and food a problem.  Not sure what option C is !.

I notice on the meat stalls they leave the dogs head so at least you can choose your favourite brand.  But I wonder whether you get the kids going to their mum “look mum, theres Fido” – actually I lie because when I stayed at the Hmong girls house in TaVan and asked the dogs name , she said dogs don’t have names , only the water buffaloes.  Wonder what is the most common water buffalo name is.

Anyway BacHa still quiet but market day tomorrow so I guess that is when all the tourist hordes come into town and locals from the hills.  Other than that a surprisingly quiet town.  Some places are busy in the day and lively at night, others quiet in the day and lively at night, BacHa just stays dead at any time bar Sunday I guess.  But lots of building work going on so someone must have great ambitions for the place.  I even had to get the the hotel to turn the tv satellite on, they said they turn it off in the week as don’t get guests. The good thing was it does pick up BBC World and after a month of no news good to hear the world is still going around, just. The bad news after a day you realise how tedious BBC World is with the same few clips shown constantly.  Send Russell Brand and Jonathon Ross there, they could say what they like and no one would notice and provide the rest of us with some much needed entertainment. 

After not that great an impressions of the place have got to like BacHa for its great hill ( not sure if they are mountains or hills)  walking.  Can wander for hours totally lost thru the hills with some lovely scenery, paddyfields and extremely colourful locals.  Has been wet and usually very muddy but wandering thru the little hamlets and hilltribe houses with the chickens , pigs ,water buffaloes and sweet colourful kids –  great.  Admittedly also get the snarling dogs who seem to have an exaggerated sense of territorial rights and I can feel quite guilty when I pick up a rock to throw at their snarling mutt only for a little kid to walk out wondering what all the fuss is all about.  But for the most part the houses deserted as the locals work in the fields and the children in the schools.  And to the countrys credit, whereas the major infractrusture is surprisingly poor between the cities, in the rural areas its very good with schools in the smallest villages and a lot of effort going into roads and drainage etc even if a constant battle with the weather.

So tomorrow market day when everybody comes to town and then expect to move on Monday.

The sun finally came out after a week of rain upon leaving Sapa.  Went to Lao Cai and then here, BacHa.  According to the guidebook the road was meant to be good but the heavy recent rains made it a mudbath in places and made for a slow , slippery journey thru the mountains but scenery nice.

BacHa more famous for its Sunday market than as a weekday destination but over time many travellers have recommended it over touristy Sapa.  Upon arrival I was wishing I was back in touristy Sapa.  BacHa a modern non descript town lacking the colour and charm of Sapa and without the delightful Black Hmong girls ( I use the word girl lucidly, any girl between the ages of 1 and a 100 ) “harressing” one with their charm and wonderful use of English and quick wit the place quite boring.  Having not eaten a barbeque for ages I decided to try one. It wasn’t until the girl had put the meat on to grill for a couple of minutes that I jokingly pointed to a dog and said is that the meat.  She nodded yes – so I had 2.  Actually tasted quite nice but a bit strong for my tastes but if the economy gets too bad you know where to look …

 Today when out into the hills and changed my mind about the place completely.  Here the ethnic group is Flower Hmong and as ethnic groups go must be one of the most colourful in their beautiful multi coloured clothing.  And unlike Sapa no tourists around and all very quiet- admittedly weekends very different when all the tourists come for the market.  However people surprisingly shy – or maybe fed up with tourists with cameras – and even the sight of a camera had them running, however nothing unususal with ethnic groups and no point in pushing the issue even if in their colour would make lovely snaps. But all told a very nice day in the sun, good scenery and lovely people and hopefully more of the same tomorrow.  

Still in Sapa, a very wet one at that.  Hardly stopped raining since I have been here and even those 3000m mountains in front of my balcony yet to make an appearance, in fact rarely can see past my balcony.  Had hopped to have moved on but lack of dry clothes and the prospect of wet mountain roads doesn’t inspire me.  At least here nice, lots of colour from the hilltribe people and friendly faces and still enjoyable just soaking in the atmosphere.  And at least I have done the treking so can look at all the poor westerners forcing themselves out in the rain and know I can sit back to a cup of coffee and do my hilltribe experience in the warm.  Just eating in the market with local Hmong etc entertaining in itself and few restaurants provide such a great visual aspect with good food to match.  Will get away this way but if weather doesn’t improve might abandon the mountains and return to the beach and call it a day.