Fenhuang
Over night train journey to Zhangjiajie easy enough but very crowded with students returning to their provinces. Then at 3.30am dumped of the train to face the bitter cold and with everything closed couldn’t even get a drink or food so not a place I would recommend to arrive early. But eventually got to the bus station and then a bus to the national park for a nice refreshing 8am start.
Zhangjiajie/Wulingyuan is in the premier league of sites in China and often seen in photos and pictures for its stunning rock formations with needle sharp karst formation rising up into the sky and not seen anywhere else in the world. For me it was also the last major destination in China I wanted to visit even if mid winter was always going to be difficult. Whereas only stayed at 800 metres it still made a difference with snow and ice in the high areas. Luckily there were a couple of Chinese girls on the bus who had a better idea of things and recommended staying in the park rather than follow the L.P and stay in the village outside. So spent 2 nights in the park and did some excellent hikikng and walks and very enjoyable. Only let down was the weather refused to do any favours and visibility extremely limited so rarely saw the best parts and by the third day my plan to head into the north of the park laid waste in freezing fog with visibility down to a few metres. Would have been easy to have spent a week but whereas the cold can be handled (even if my camera seemed to disagree) but when you can’t see nothing and with bad weather forcast it was time to move on. At least enjoyed the hikes, the girls good company as were the local ethnic people and the many monkeys friendly posing for the camera. And seem to be getting good at sliding around in the snow and ice with a full pack as this time managed to avoid falling over.
So on the third day took the worlds longest elevator (and probably at over 5 pounds the worlds most expensive) back down with the plan to catch a bus back to the entrance only to be told no buses were running so got a nice long walk back to the entrance. National Parks in China are not like at home, a wilderness to be protected. They are a mass market money making venture with buses to whizz you around, proper steps and hand rails to make walking easier and no shortage of restaurants and full facilities including cable cars and hotels. The positive side is that it does allow a lot of people to visit in all weather with some degree of comfort. Except on this occassion despite being told we have to pay for the buses to whizz us around they then told us no buses were running due to bad weather, when is it good weather in January !.
Got the bus back to Zhangjiajie city – very friendly people – as the rain started and after an intensive intake of caffeine at McDonalds got the bus to Fenhuang. A wet slippery journey but some good scenery despite the weather. Arrived Fenhuang late at night in the wet and feeling extremely tired, never ideal. But Fenhuang a lovely place and arriving at night even better. Its an old town on the river with rickety old wooden buildings, city walls and bridges and populated by the Miao and Tujia people. Also like Lijiang in Yunnan and Yongshou near Guillin a place where the Chinese come in huge numbers to have fun and party so some decent nightlife ( for China) . So despite the tireness still neded up having a few beers till late.
Spent yesterday wandering the place, easy to take good photos even if the weather very overcast and not much life. The place is hugely popular with Chinese but still doesn’t seem to be on the backpacker list as no westerners around, admittedly outside of H.K and Shanghai haven’t been anywhere. The place also getting the Chinese rebuild job but in fairness a lot of the building probably need it before they fall down. And any place where I can sit on my balcony and take great photos is fine by me and those night views … One negative, the restaurants bit like going into a pet shop in England, but sad really. At least when I go for a meal with the chinese there is no arguments from me about having the “best” bits, I am happpy to concede the head, eyes, feet neck etc .
Next stop will be Kailli.
Tags: 1
petefurlepa