La Palma, western Canaries
Wednesday, December 28th, 200513 Dec – 19 Dec, 2005
We moved straight to Fuencaliente, on the south of the island, without our luggage. We decided to fly from the eastern islands across, as we would have effectively lost a whole day taking ferries (about 20 hours) and not saved a significant enough sum. And besides, time is becoming much more precious than the money.
So, we were a tad disappointed that our bags did not make the same trip we did. The bags missed the connection (at Tenerife Norte) and would arrive around 3 o’clock. No probs, they would be sent down to the apartment where we were staying. Not worried yet, we rang to enquire at about 18:00. Concerned and a tad annoyed, we rang again at 21:00. Really annoyed and getting worried, we rang again the next morning. We bought a change of clothes and some toiletries, courtesy of the airline. Pissed off and confused, we rang twice more. Eventually, about 26 hours after we arrived, we were informed that our bags had indeed been delivered. The driver had left them at a bar down the road, at 18:00 the night before!?!?! And nobody seemed to find it appropriate to convey that message to us!!!!
La Palma is an amazing contrast to the eastern islands, and contains amazing contrasts within itself. There are barren areas where the lava flows of recent erruptions (like, 1970’s) have added to the island’s side, and being a very wet island, some extremely fertile spots as well. Ironically, equally, because of the eruptions!
Near where we were staying, Fuencaliente, there are a couple of easily visited volcanic cones, including the two which have blown in the last couple of centuries, and as late as 1977.
In the interior is the amazing Caldera de Taburiente. A cauldron of cliffs, up to 2000 metres, 6 or more kilometres wide, and full of green. One day, we did a few hikes up around the rim. The next, we went, right in to the heart of the caldera, entering via the gorge that is the only real break in cliff walls.
La Palma has some nice beaches on the west coast, with black volcanic sand, and beautiful sunsets at Puerto Naos accompanied our afternoon cocktails. 😀
And north of Santa Cruz de La Palma, where we moved to for the last two nights (due to the hideously early ferry we needed to catch) there are some more nice walks to higher reaches. The forest at Los Brecitos is beautiful, and we had an excellent vantage point over the protected reserve on a tall rocky outcrop, where we just stood and just listened to the hundreds of birds, watching them scooting around the treetops far below us.
Los Brecitos
Santa Cruz de La Palma
Independent traveller impressions, 3, after La Palma: Still extemely happy with our island choices. Of course, the hiking is amazing, and there were two mini bus loads who began the 6 hour trail at the same time as us. We scooted off before they began, and we never saw hide nor hair of them after that. With great walking, and a pretty good bus system, one could get by without a car, although this allows a bit more flexibility.
Richard and Jo