… any way the wind blows …

25 Dec, 2005

Not such an exciting post to finish the trip off with. Sorry everyone. Maybe I’ll revisit this. Arrived in Perth in the wee hours of Christmas, minus one bag 🙁 . Seem to be making a habit of this. Wouldn’t be surprised if it was somewhere in Madrid on an Iberia carousel…

A few days here, and then to Melbourne and home on the 29th.

Hope everyone enjoyed the blog, and until the next time, Merry Christmas and cheers.

22 Dec – 24 Dec, 2005

“Punctuality is Our Aim”. So, the signage says every way you turn when near Iberia check in counters. They’re missing, big time! We were late by over an hour, from Amsterdam to Madrid. We were late from Madrid to Fuerteventura. On this return leg, the plane was an hour late from Teneriffe to Madrid, meaning we missed our connection to Frankfurt (one of their flights left on time!!!, or maybe not too late, in any case). We missed that one by minutes. And even more annoying, was the strike at Madrid airport meant that after landing we had to sit for 15 minutes on the plane before being allowed to disembark.

So, Iberia managed to get us on another flight. We should make the connection in Frankfurt. Iberia plane arrives at Madrid and at the gate on time! Looking good! Iberia plane leaves Madrid 20 minutes late. Should still have time. We land30 minutes late. Should still be fine. Qantas plane is only parked two or three jetways down. We’ll make it. Qantas flight to Singapore closes 10 minutes before departure time. We miss it by a minute or so. We shout expletives at imaginary Iberia people who are not there to hear us…

24 hours in Frankfurt, at a cushy hotel, courtesy of the airline. Worst part is, though, we will not reach Perth until Christmas morning, now.

19 Dec – 22 Dec, 2005

Teneriffe. One of the two big islands of the Canaries. After our dreadfully early start, our two hour ferry crossing had us at Los Cristianos, southern Teneriffe, still in time for breakfast. And still in time to catch a boat out to see the resident pilot whales. Beautiful creatures. Unfortunately, the weather was not so hot today, and the whales tended to stay just below the surface so as to avoid being exposed to the (relatively) chilly wind. So our encounter was short, but beautiful, and we did pick up some dolphins on the return trip to land.

Pilot whale

With only two days left, and this worsening weather reported to be hanging around for a couple of days, we realised we could not plan according to what the weather may or may not do. So, with hopes that “surely it can’t be as bad as it looks”, we took the morning bus up to the national park around El Teide, Spain’s highest peak. We set off on our walk, in medium rain, with our gear on. Intention – walk an hour or so, and if it is looking like it is getting better, persist. If not, turn back. After an hour, we both decided that the short breaks (i.e. rain going light) were encouraging, and so we continued. Well, the rain got worse and worse, and we spent the entire rest of the walk in heavy, and at times pelting, rain. The peak itself got snow, and we were spared that (although it felt like hail for a few minutes). 16 km in wet boots. We waited with lunch until the end of the walk, and ate at the cafeteria by the road where the bus left from, while enjoying a hot chocolate. Guy at the cafeteria said we couldn’t eat in there, and we may have understood if there were people waiting for tables, but as there were plenty free (not many people coming to the park in the rain) and as we had bought our hot chocolates, we thought him a tad mean. We asked where he suggested we should eat, and he just suggested outside. Since they provided the only shelter within cooee, we just ignored him and finished our lunches. As if we were going to move out on to the rocks in the rain to eat our bread and cheese.

Our last night before returning to Australia. We really did not feel like a tourist haunt, and found a local bar, where we sat on bar stools with a pub style meal and watched Real Madrid lose to Racing, 2-1.

Independent traveller impressions, 4, after Teneriffe: Well, here it is. The southern part of the island is full of everything we warned about. Rows and rows of Irish bars, British bars, German bars, and Swedish bars. German food, English food, everything but Canarian food. Rows of apartments, people selling tourist trinkets, touts offering tours, theme parks, bleah…. Hard to avoid this totally, as the ferries to western islands come and go from here, but we were in and out within a few hours. Our base in Puerto de la Cruz was pretty good, but still obviously geared to short term visitors. Again, good bus network helps the independent traveller, and doing your day treks in pouring rain helps to thin the crowds out a lot. Although, the groups would probably have not have strayed too far from the paths. If we had not been flying out from this island, we may have skipped it in preference for La Gomera or El Hierro. In the end, those two islands will have to remain for a return visit, if we ever make it back here. But it seemed better to do that than to just rush in there for a day or so.

13 Dec – 19 Dec, 2005

We moved straight to Fuencaliente, on the south of the island, without our luggage. We decided to fly from the eastern islands across, as we would have effectively lost a whole day taking ferries (about 20 hours) and not saved a significant enough sum. And besides, time is becoming much more precious than the money.

So, we were a tad disappointed that our bags did not make the same trip we did. The bags missed the connection (at Tenerife Norte) and would arrive around 3 o’clock. No probs, they would be sent down to the apartment where we were staying. Not worried yet, we rang to enquire at about 18:00. Concerned and a tad annoyed, we rang again at 21:00. Really annoyed and getting worried, we rang again the next morning. We bought a change of clothes and some toiletries, courtesy of the airline. Pissed off and confused, we rang twice more. Eventually, about 26 hours after we arrived, we were informed that our bags had indeed been delivered. The driver had left them at a bar down the road, at 18:00 the night before!?!?! And nobody seemed to find it appropriate to convey that message to us!!!!

La Palma is an amazing contrast to the eastern islands, and contains amazing contrasts within itself. There are barren areas where the lava flows of recent erruptions (like, 1970’s) have added to the island’s side, and being a very wet island, some extremely fertile spots as well. Ironically, equally, because of the eruptions!

Near where we were staying, Fuencaliente, there are a couple of easily visited volcanic cones, including the two which have blown in the last couple of centuries, and as late as 1977.

In the interior is the amazing Caldera de Taburiente. A cauldron of cliffs, up to 2000 metres, 6 or more kilometres wide, and full of green. One day, we did a few hikes up around the rim. The next, we went, right in to the heart of the caldera, entering via the gorge that is the only real break in cliff walls.

La Palma has some nice beaches on the west coast, with black volcanic sand, and beautiful sunsets at Puerto Naos accompanied our afternoon cocktails. 😀

And north of Santa Cruz de La Palma, where we moved to for the last two nights (due to the hideously early ferry we needed to catch) there are some more nice walks to higher reaches. The forest at Los Brecitos is beautiful, and we had an excellent vantage point over the protected reserve on a tall rocky outcrop, where we just stood and just listened to the hundreds of birds, watching them scooting around the treetops far below us.

Los Brecitos

Santa Cruz de La Palma

Independent traveller impressions, 3, after La Palma: Still extemely happy with our island choices. Of course, the hiking is amazing, and there were two mini bus loads who began the 6 hour trail at the same time as us. We scooted off before they began, and we never saw hide nor hair of them after that. With great walking, and a pretty good bus system, one could get by without a car, although this allows a bit more flexibility.

10 Dec – 13 Dec, 2005

Really, it would have been so much more logical if Lanzarote had been joined to Fuerteventura. The landscape is not hugely different, and the highspeed ferry ride is over quick enough that you easily forget that you have moved to another island.

Amazingly beautiful, in its stark and arid way. Hundreds (thousands?) of hectares of twisted and distorted lava shapes. A couple of small and hardy plants somehow surviving amongst it all, and even a couple of birds flitting about. This was best appreciated in the national park, Timanfaya.

And, it is still “happening” – OK, no lava was flowing, but just metres below the surface, the temperature is measured in hundreds of degrees. Even just disturbing the top layers brings gravel and rocks too hot to handle.

Well, we had to do it, then, and we ate at the restaurant, where the meat is grilled over hot volcanic rocks from below the ground. Accompanied by a couple of glasses of the local drop, and a view over the landscape of the national park.

Again, we based ourselves in the main town of the island. Arrecife. On each island, there appears to be a couple of places that exists for reasons other than tourism, and this seems to be a great way to experience a bit of local culture and avoid the resorts.

Coastal spot, Lanzarote

We went north, one day. Mirador del Rio with some wonderful views. Lava tubes tastefully turned into a bar and entertainment complex, Jameos del Agua. Lava tubes at Cueva de los Verdes. Cactus garden cum artwork.

Cactus park

What is interesting to see is the stone walls. Almost every plant and vine is grown behind a low stone shelter. Without these, the little plants would have little hope of survival in the face of the ferocious winds. In this environment, they need individual nurturing and care.

Independent traveller impressions, 2, after Lanzarote: Again, an inexpensive hire car was necessary to view all the things, as the bus network would mean a few more days might be required, and some things would be near impossible to get to without your own wheels. Lanzarote has managed to keep resort development under some sort of control, and those that we did seem appeared to be generally tasteful. Most importantly, they were avoidable. And groups? Yes, there were busloads at the national park, and even more at the caves in the north. But their stays were generally short and concise. Biggest gripe was the expenses! Really, 8 euros each for the caves, twice, 5 euros for the cactus garden, and 8 euros for the national park – about $100, and we actually skipped a few things that would have added more expense (mirador entry, Cesar Manrique’s house and collection, a museum). I can’t imagine that many people, particularly families, could afford to do everything. This is disappointing and a shame. With sights like these, you shouldn’t have to decide to do one at the expense of another for reasons of cost. But they are capitalising on the fact that most people are coming on short holidays and what’s a few more euros?

8 Dec – 10 Dec, 2005

Before writing about individual expeniences, we should point out in advance, that we had received mixed messages about the Canary Islands. While some seasoned travellers told us to avoid them and were horrified we were going (yes, Luregn, you in particular 😉 ), others told us to research thoroughly and choose our islands carefully, thus avoiding the commercialism and tourist build up to some degree. I don’t think it is possible to avoid the resorts, package tourists, theme parks, and other assosciated consequences entirely, but we hope that we do well.

Fuerteventura. An eastern island of the Canaries. Desolate and bare, but by no means unattractive. We stayed in the town of Puerto Del Rosario, and day tripped with a hire car. Some nice views and landscapes, some nice beaches (although a little cold and not really beach weather). A few beautiful old windmills dotting the interior. Lots of goats, both live and in our lunch. Excellent cheese (goats cheese, of course). However, Fuerteventura was really just a stepping stone, before going on to Lanzarote. Hence, our short whip around of a couple of days.

Independent traveller impressions, 1, after Fuerteventura: Well, the resorts along the eastern coast are ugly and boxy. We avoided them, at ground level, but had to “admire” them from the air as the final airport approach was along the coast. Particularly set against the stark and arid landscape that is Fuerteventura – almost treeless, giving no vegetation for the boxes to hide amongst. Puerto Del Rosario, though, gets the independent thumbs up (although not so many sights). Getting a car and getting about was easy. No bus groups encountered, only lots of other people doing it themselves in hire cars.

6 Dec – 8 Dec, 2005

A small layover in Madrid. Two nights. Iosu, whom we met in Peru, was our host. When he said there would be space, we didn’t expect him to give us his room, while he went and slept elsewhere! We were a little astonished, expecting a bit of floor space, or something.

Tapas for dinner on the day we arrived. And the 7th – a day of tapas. Early lunch tapas. Early dinner tapas. Evening tapas with drinks with Iosu and his friends. Squid. Cheeses. Croquettes. Steak pieces. Mushrooms. And Jo’s favourite, Jamon Serrano (a cured ham). Platefulls, and soooo cheap! Eateries, just full of hanging hams. A ham lovers paradise. (And Jo is one, I can assure you!)

Did some sightseeing, but really, the weather was far too nice to spend time in museums, or the like. Just a full day wandering the streets and squares.

28 Nov – 6 Dec, 2005

In to Holland, and around to the relatives. You know what they say, about able to choose your friends, but not your relatives. Well, I wouldn’t choose any differently. The really amazing thing about my uncles and aunts and cousins, they always treat us like we have been in close contact. They make us feel at home, and fit in with us and our running around. They treat us like we see them every other weekend, even though it has been six years since we saw most of them (and longer for some).

Summary (this is more “for the record”, and to acknowledge them all, too, and for those who are related to us to know who we saw – We don’t really expect our friends to read this and start making a mental family tree, or anything):

Best (no not a rating, a town in Holland) – Stayed with Wim and Riet (Wim is Mum’s brother), and caught up with my cousin, Marc.

Mierlo – Went with Joke (Mum’s sister) to visit her husband, Johan, who is unwell at the moment. Dinner with cousin, Marianne, and her partner, Rene, and then spent the night with Joke.

Best again – Mini family gathering, at Wim and Riet’s. Joke came. Marc was there. Rianne (another cousin) came with her daughter, Lotte, the latest addition to the extensive family. And dear uncle Oeds.

Utrecht – Stayed with Rianne (and Lotte). Forest walk.

Borssele – A day trip (courtesy of Rianne’s car) to visit an aunt, Corrie. Dad’s sister, this time. This visit was conducted primarily in Dutch.

Amsterdam – Stayed with Jan (Mum’s brother) and Nora. Met Jody, their newest dog. Visit one evening by cousin, Vera.

Rotterdam – A day with Oeds. Drizzly and dreary, but still just good enough to enjoy drinks at the top of the Euro Mast tower. A catch up, and a dinner at one of his regular haunts.

24 Nov – 28 Nov, 2005

Spent our first and last days in Hannover with Markus and Kat, and Arko the dog. Markus had to work at the Christmas market, Kat had an exam, so we spent a day with Arko.

Markus, Kat, and Arko

Naomi worked with Joanne in Melbourne, and is currently living and teaching in Hannover. The weekend was spent travelling (courtesy of Markus and Kat’s car, thanks guys) to Gossler, and on Sunday, Bergen-Belsin. Gossler was happy and festive, snow and food and drink. Bergen-Belsin was a Nazi camp and is now a memorial, and the depressing mood was an amazing contrast against the snow. (btw, Bergen-Belsin is the camp where Anne Frank died)

Christmas market, Gossler

Bergen-Belsin memorial

20 Nov – 24 Nov, 2005

What an amazing city Berlin is. Third time here, and we could still entertain ourselves so easily, with dozens of things left for another time. Some were new sites, some were things we have not got around to in previous visits, and some were things that we could not help but see again.

Highlight sites for this time round: controversial, yet amazingly powerful, recently opened Holocaust Memorial; fantastic exhibition at the Guggenheim; the glass addition atop the revamped Reichstag; Russian war memorial at Treptower park; the Berlin Wall Documentation Centre.

We stayed with Sonja, a friend we met in Argentina. And we also managed to catch up with Sharon, a friend from church from Melbourne, currently in her third year living in Berlin.

Holocaust Memorial

Reichstag

Coffee and familiar looking beer, with Sharon

At the Turjikistan Tea House, with Sonja