Xiaheaa
Been a hectic day. Took an early bus to Hezuo with the monks and the nomads. A very good road and good bus so made quick progress. Arrived in Hezuo, jumped in a taxi with a chinese guy and two lamas and crossed town to another bus atation. All got a bit confusing as everyone seemed to want to go to Xiaheaa and a bit of a battle for seats. As it was I just left it to the others and we were on our way. In total just over 4 hours so a painless trip. And before I came out on this trip I was expecting the Songpan – north part to be hard. Even the altitude no problem, at most about 3500m and no mountain passes to cross.
For the first time in a while twice refused entry for a hotel for being a foreigner. Luckily plenty to choose from. So having dumped my bag, my “guide” and myself went to the Labrangaaa monastery. According to Lp its the leading Tibetan monastery outside Lhasa. Certainly no shortage of lamas and people doing pilgrimage, all in their colourful robes.
He took me on a tour around the monastery, useful as he spoke English. But slightly embarassing as the lamas were doing their prayers etc and this wasn’t a proper tour time and we were going to the holiest parts – his brother or friend was a lama there.
Then he took me to the place of the head lama – at this point I will make my apologies, there are correct terms for all these things but with my knowledge and translations inaccuracies I will keep it very simple for what is a very serious subject. Here there was a special occasion to mark the new 7th ( I forget the word ) lama ie the young boy who will become the main lama of the monastery when the existing one dies. We each presented a white scarf to the young boy then knelt and he tapped us on the head then we did the Tibetan act of worship. According to Lp this Lama is third in importance after the Dalai & Panchen Lamas, so quite an important act and honour. ( now a firework display
Xiahe itself fairly disappointing. Besides the monastery area the rest of trhe town nothing to shout about and bigger than I expected. But certainly has the feel of a pilgrimage town and plenty of shops selling for the pilgrims. Could even stock up on one of those big heavy cloaks which are like huge blankets that they all wear now, seem to keep them warm !.
After a couple of dry days weather now turned horrible so not sure where next. Was planning to head for Xining but I think Lanzhou has a better road. Probably hang around here another day, see what happens.
quick interrupt just been outside for a most incredible firework display, at the entrance of the monastery next to here so I guess connected to the days event, still going on but come inside as looks like might be a “problem”. i’ll send quick and change names
Tags: Travel
petefurlepa