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Kashgar

Saturday, October 27th, 2007

Yesterday felt exhausted after the 28 hour trip here, not sure if its possible to get bus lag but certainly felt it. Journey nothing special in the way of sights and more than happy to arrive. As it was dumped in a sandpit on the outskirts of the city, not sure why they can’t use the bus station. Decided to stretch my legs and walk in and find a hotel which proved surprisingly difficult with constant ” no foreigner”. Started to take a serious dislike to the place as the hotels were decent places so no reason. As it was eventually found a very good place.

The Chinese centre of the city modern but dated or just felt a bit run down but with lots of redevelopment taking place. Today spent the time wandering around Old Kashgar, some great places. Lovely traditional streets and full of character. If I ever need to buy carpets, silks, woollen hats, handmade knives. spices, grapes etc etc I know where to go, can even get new shoes for a horse. Some great craft places and largely all the action on the streets. The “old town” that costs 30y to enter a waste of time, completely deserted, I only hope they don’t only preserve the official tourist areas and not the whole of what remains – would be a great shame to lose such great places but this is China and development takes precedence. The city fairly mixed in cultural terms between muslim uighurs and chinese ( admitedly mixed is probably not the right word ) and not as many people wearing the burka as I expected and overall seemed fairly relaxed and friendly enough. Also some great food but had better kebabs in Turpan – and I’ve eaten a lot of kebabs !

Tomorrow of to Karakul Lake.

Info. Loads of ATMs. Caravan Cafe closed since May. Post Hotel near main post office on main street good value in central location 130y. The Ex British consulate area hotels didn’t look great but has more places doing travel arrangements – however with no tourists this time of year, no tours.

Turpan Kashgar

Friday, October 26th, 2007

After a 28 hour bus journey thru desert to here Kashgar, Jingle Bells was not the music I was expecting to here blasting out in the square but a nice touch anyway.

Anyway to backdate. Took the 10am sleeper bus from Jiayuguan to Turpan. Dull journey thru desert, a few windfarms and a nice sunset with the snow capped mountains in the far distance was about as good as it got. At 3am dumped onto the streets of Turpan as the bus continued on its way. Never a good time to arrive and left in the hands of dodgy taxi drivers but ended up ok.

First thing that struck me next morning was despite leaving the hotel at 10.30am it was early morning still, I had come that far west. As it turned out the local time 2 hours behind. Took a taxi to the Jiaohe Ruins, one of the ancient desert cities of the old silk road. Despite being destroyed by the Mongols in the 14 century still visible ruins and worth the effort. Then wandered back to Turpan.

Having not so long ago been travelling up 5000m into the clouds of Chola mountains, according to lp the highest pass east of Lhasa, now it was down to 154m below sea level to the second lowest depression in the world after the dead sea. Turpan is a pleasant city, easy going with a mix between Uighur and Chinese. The centre a modern city with nice parks and water/light displays to music. As you walk away from the center its more traditional, ancient Uighur houses, donkey and cart and a plentiful supply of grape vines everywhere for which its famed for. Being muslim plenty of minarets and the arabic script and local uighur language widely used and in the bazaar more like the world of Ali Baber and the 40 thieves which had been shown on the bus vcr
– and there have plenty of taxi drivers in the north who could have played the part of the 40 thieves !!.

robably should have stayed longer but having spent a whole wandering aroung the streets and sights felt leg weary and so took the 1pm sleeper bus to here Kashgar.

Jiayuguan

Monday, October 22nd, 2007
Took the sleeper bus from Lanzhou to here, arrived 6.30am. Jiayuguans claim to fame is its the beginning of the great wall so spent the day checking out sights. The Jiayuguan Fort interesting enough, fine displays with a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Xiahe to Lanzhou

Friday, October 19th, 2007
Following on from my last post, at least the fireworks were good. But then had to stay inside and the shutters were brought down whilst "order" was restored. Eventually given a police escort out and checked for cameras ... [Continue reading this entry]

Xiaheaa

Wednesday, October 17th, 2007
Been a hectic day. Took an early bus to Hezuo with the monks and the nomads. A very good road and good bus so made quick progress. Arrived in Hezuo, jumped in a taxi with a chinese ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lamusi 2

Tuesday, October 16th, 2007
Has a fairly relaxing day wandering around the hills. Some great views with snow topped mountains in the background and the usual monasteries, yaks etc to provide a good Tibetan scene. But now starting to feel more wintry, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lamusi

Monday, October 15th, 2007
Another early one with a 6am bus to Lamusi. Given the weather in Songpan and the fact that the tv was saying the area was having unusually bad weather, was expecting a tough trip. Stocked up with double ... [Continue reading this entry]

Songpan

Saturday, October 13th, 2007
An early bitterly cold start for the 3 hour bus for Songpan. A picture postcard trip, heavy snow during the night had left the trees white with beautiful white snow capped mountains in the background. Could have been ... [Continue reading this entry]

Jiuzhaigou 3

Friday, October 12th, 2007
After a heavy night of rain - snow higher up, forced myself out of bed into another bitterly cold 6.30am start. Considering the place doesn't even open until 7am, surprised by just how busy it was with the pavements ... [Continue reading this entry]

Jiuzhaighou

Thursday, October 11th, 2007
Didn't bother going to the national park yesterday as weather still overcast and misty but today went anyway. Not ideal and certainly would have been better if visibility was better but still very good. The colours of the ... [Continue reading this entry]