Not Approved by LP

Back here after many hours camped out on buses. Despite temperatures starting to drop still like the place with its easy going atmosphere, good food and even better fruit. But winter definitely on its way, the fountains being emptied and fenced of and went to the Emin mosque only to be the only one there and the sign said one of the nations major tourist spots.

After room neighbours making a racket until 6am and then a dodgy breakfast decided to take the VIP bus direct to Hotan from Kashgar. Not that I felt like a vip with the kid in the seat in front promptly throwing up and seemingly managed to continue in that vain for the next 9 hours and with sealed windows he made best use of the floor – and my feet !. Surprise the drivers don’t do a sideline selling travel sickness tablets as certainly a common complaint. The nomads seemed to have it down to fine art, who despite living in such harsh conditions, eating food that would leave me wanting to throw up and used to riding horses, only had to get on a bus and their stomachs would desert them. Given the hygiene standards in that part of the world probably didn’t make difference, thankfully something that couldn’t be said for this area and its muslim population.

The journey to Hotan passed thru some nice Uighur towns and villages, lots of donkey and carts and the odd camel. Didn’t stay long in Hotan, despite an ancient silk road town the place didn’t seem to have a lot going for it unless interested in buying jade.

So then it was another marathon trip across the desert, I think something like Turkeman desert, the second largest shifting sand desert in the world but writing from memory. In the background there was high snow covered mountains, in the foreground endless desert. Sadly as we went into the best part, the sweeping sand tunes which we all like to imagine deserts to look like the sun faded and we continued on thru the night. Eventually after 23 hours the driver summoned me to get off and it was a quick drive to here.

Tonight another long bus journey to Dunhugan

Tashkurgan obviously not the most popular place this time of year, I was the only person for the bus. So that got cancelled and put with another bus. But the scenery great, passing along the Pamir mountain range with 7000m plus mountains. Taskurgan in the Tajik autonamous region which explains why the people are different, but on the China / Pakistan border.

Arriving anywhere in China seems to be pot luck on whether it will be nice or ghastly depending on when it was last ” upgraded ” and Tashkurgan got the short straw. Admittedly a very out of season feel and places either closed or under reconstruction. Certainly the surrounding senery and people a lot more interesting than the town center.

Today another bus back , this time everyone seemed to be trying to get onboard ( or escaping ) but got back to Kashgar no problem.

Tomorrow go to Karghilik and then Hotan.

Yesterday did a one day trip to Karakul Lake which is towards the border area. The scenery very very good. A mixture of dry arid rocky landscapes backed by huge snowcapped mountains. As you get nearer there are various lakes covered by ice and sparsely populated by people of the central asian republics ( I cannot remember of hand which but seemed friendly ) often living in white yurts and the occasional camels and donkeys.

Karakul lake itself a turquoise coloured laked backed by high snow capped mountains. Pretty enough but in an area of stunning beauty probably no more so than the journey there. Overall a great day out. In warmer conditions would be nice to stay overnight but even on a sunny day bitterly cold – winter approaching !!.

Tomorrow make a return journey but continue onto Tashkurgan which is at the border of Pakistan and the infamous Karakoum Highway – sadly no visas issued in Kashgar and it now closes for the winter but it would be good to continue…

Yesterday felt exhausted after the 28 hour trip here, not sure if its possible to get bus lag but certainly felt it. Journey nothing special in the way of sights and more than happy to arrive. As it was dumped in a sandpit on the outskirts of the city, not sure why they can’t use the bus station. Decided to stretch my legs and walk in and find a hotel which proved surprisingly difficult with constant ” no foreigner”. Started to take a serious dislike to the place as the hotels were decent places so no reason. As it was eventually found a very good place.

The Chinese centre of the city modern but dated or just felt a bit run down but with lots of redevelopment taking place. Today spent the time wandering around Old Kashgar, some great places. Lovely traditional streets and full of character. If I ever need to buy carpets, silks, woollen hats, handmade knives. spices, grapes etc etc I know where to go, can even get new shoes for a horse. Some great craft places and largely all the action on the streets. The “old town” that costs 30y to enter a waste of time, completely deserted, I only hope they don’t only preserve the official tourist areas and not the whole of what remains – would be a great shame to lose such great places but this is China and development takes precedence. The city fairly mixed in cultural terms between muslim uighurs and chinese ( admitedly mixed is probably not the right word ) and not as many people wearing the burka as I expected and overall seemed fairly relaxed and friendly enough. Also some great food but had better kebabs in Turpan – and I’ve eaten a lot of kebabs !

Tomorrow of to Karakul Lake.

Info. Loads of ATMs. Caravan Cafe closed since May. Post Hotel near main post office on main street good value in central location 130y. The Ex British consulate area hotels didn’t look great but has more places doing travel arrangements – however with no tourists this time of year, no tours.

After a 28 hour bus journey thru desert to here Kashgar, Jingle Bells was not the music I was expecting to here blasting out in the square but a nice touch anyway.

Anyway to backdate. Took the 10am sleeper bus from Jiayuguan to Turpan. Dull journey thru desert, a few windfarms and a nice sunset with the snow capped mountains in the far distance was about as good as it got. At 3am dumped onto the streets of Turpan as the bus continued on its way. Never a good time to arrive and left in the hands of dodgy taxi drivers but ended up ok.

First thing that struck me next morning was despite leaving the hotel at 10.30am it was early morning still, I had come that far west. As it turned out the local time 2 hours behind. Took a taxi to the Jiaohe Ruins, one of the ancient desert cities of the old silk road. Despite being destroyed by the Mongols in the 14 century still visible ruins and worth the effort. Then wandered back to Turpan.

Having not so long ago been travelling up 5000m into the clouds of Chola mountains, according to lp the highest pass east of Lhasa, now it was down to 154m below sea level to the second lowest depression in the world after the dead sea. Turpan is a pleasant city, easy going with a mix between Uighur and Chinese. The centre a modern city with nice parks and water/light displays to music. As you walk away from the center its more traditional, ancient Uighur houses, donkey and cart and a plentiful supply of grape vines everywhere for which its famed for. Being muslim plenty of minarets and the arabic script and local uighur language widely used and in the bazaar more like the world of Ali Baber and the 40 thieves which had been shown on the bus vcr
– and there have plenty of taxi drivers in the north who could have played the part of the 40 thieves !!.

robably should have stayed longer but having spent a whole wandering aroung the streets and sights felt leg weary and so took the 1pm sleeper bus to here Kashgar.

Took the sleeper bus from Lanzhou to here, arrived 6.30am. Jiayuguans claim to fame is its the beginning of the great wall so spent the day checking out sights.
The Jiayuguan Fort interesting enough, fine displays with a good museum of great wall history/ silk road history and nice views of the Gobi desert and mountains in the background. The Great Wall parts themselves provided good photo ops and a bit of exercise but built in the last few years so not exactly authentic.
The city itself modern, spacious and decent parks to wander around with good hotels and food so a nice chance to relax and enjoy some decent sunshine. After the bitter cold of the high mountains great just to be able to wear a t shirt and enjoy blue skies and even wash clothes that would never dry elsewhere. In all like being in a different country to the Tibetan plateau, no more lamas, monasteries, nomads and yaks and something I am sure others would wish for.
Tomorrow off to Turpan

Following on from my last post, at least the fireworks were good. But then had to stay inside and the shutters were brought down whilst “order” was restored. Eventually given a police escort out and checked for cameras and pictures etc. But I don’t think anything worse than the average England football away game but here all a bit sensitive especially with the D.L visiting US. Also next day had the opening of a new temple so a lot of pilgrims and outsiders in town.

By next day all cleared up and business as normal. But like Dege the place lacked the relaxed atmosphere of some of the other towns even if I can now understand why. I also have been told foreigners cannot visit Tibt at the moment due to the risk of problems. Did a bit more wandering around the monastery but was suffering with a bad stomach so had a low key day. Then this morning took the bus to Lanzhou. An easy 4 hour trip on an expressway so back in the modern world. The Tibetan lamas and monasteries changed to the mosques and skull caps and fairly dull scenery.

Arrived Lanzhou, very polluted and made the eyes sting. Just read it was the most polluted city in the world – believable. Hence tonight I will leave and take a sleeper bus to Jiayuguan.

End of part one.

Been a hectic day. Took an early bus to Hezuo with the monks and the nomads. A very good road and good bus so made quick progress. Arrived in Hezuo, jumped in a taxi with a chinese guy and two lamas and crossed town to another bus atation. All got a bit confusing as everyone seemed to want to go to Xiaheaa and a bit of a battle for seats. As it was I just left it to the others and we were on our way. In total just over 4 hours so a painless trip. And before I came out on this trip I was expecting the Songpan – north part to be hard. Even the altitude no problem, at most about 3500m and no mountain passes to cross.

For the first time in a while twice refused entry for a hotel for being a foreigner. Luckily plenty to choose from. So having dumped my bag, my “guide” and myself went to the Labrangaaa monastery. According to Lp its the leading Tibetan monastery outside Lhasa. Certainly no shortage of lamas and people doing pilgrimage, all in their colourful robes.

He took me on a tour around the monastery, useful as he spoke English. But slightly embarassing as the lamas were doing their prayers etc and this wasn’t a proper tour time and we were going to the holiest parts – his brother or friend was a lama there.

Then he took me to the place of the head lama – at this point I will make my apologies, there are correct terms for all these things but with my knowledge and translations inaccuracies I will keep it very simple for what is a very serious subject. Here there was a special occasion to mark the new 7th ( I forget the word ) lama ie the young boy who will become the main lama of the monastery when the existing one dies. We each presented a white scarf to the young boy then knelt and he tapped us on the head then we did the Tibetan act of worship. According to Lp this Lama is third in importance after the Dalai & Panchen Lamas, so quite an important act and honour. ( now a firework display

Xiahe itself fairly disappointing. Besides the monastery area the rest of trhe town nothing to shout about and bigger than I expected. But certainly has the feel of a pilgrimage town and plenty of shops selling for the pilgrims. Could even stock up on one of those big heavy cloaks which are like huge blankets that they all wear now, seem to keep them warm !.

After a couple of dry days weather now turned horrible so not sure where next. Was planning to head for Xining but I think Lanzhou has a better road. Probably hang around here another day, see what happens.

quick interrupt just been outside for a most incredible firework display, at the entrance of the monastery next to here so I guess connected to the days event, still going on but come inside as looks like might be a “problem”. i’ll send quick and change names

Has a fairly relaxing day wandering around the hills. Some great views with snow topped mountains in the background and the usual monasteries, yaks etc to provide a good Tibetan scene. But now starting to feel more wintry, yesterday on the road numerous herds of yaks wre being brought down for their winter pastures and the locals heavily dressed in their thick blanket overcoats.

Last night went to the nightclub next door to the hotel expecting the usual tourist song and dance. As it was, most definitely for the local Tibetans. Colourful Tibetan decor with a girl or guy singing or playing an instrument and the locals drinking beer or tea at tables. But felt kind of tense than fun. Tibetans are often big guys, very tough, with a quite severe weather beaten unkempt look and wrapped in their blankets and hats don’t really give a party feeling, at least for an outsider like me despite them being friendly enough. Interesting all the same.

Tomorrow of to Xiahe. If nothing else will miss the food of here and Songpan, especially the Yak burger and chips they do so splendidly here, nice to have proper western food for once !!

Another early one with a 6am bus to Lamusi. Given the weather in Songpan and the fact that the tv was saying the area was having unusually bad weather, was expecting a tough trip. Stocked up with double peanut rations and the old faithful OREOs for what I was told would take 6 to 8 hours to Zoige then another 2.5 hours to Lamusi. As it was it was a happy disappointment. Started with sleet which turned to snow but for the most part the road was clear and a very good road so made quick progress. When we stopped for what I thought was a breakfast stop after 3 hours that turned out to be it, we were in Zoige. Jumped in a minivan and were in Lamusi at 10.30am.

Spent the rest of the day checking out the monastery, spinning the prayer wheels and wandering the hillside, all very pleasant. Lamusi itself nice enough, slightly disappointed but mainly because has had good reviews so always expect more than should. But a Tibetan town, colourful and lots of friendly monks and people and good hotels and food.