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Warsaw Rising

Sunday, September 14th, 2008

My stop in Poland was brief as best, mostly due to the fact I wasn’t really planning on going but unfortunately the visa strict Belarus lies between Ukraine and my next destination of Lithuanian. So I decided to stop over for a day rather than take the direct 16 hour bus. I hate buses…although ironically after my avoidance techniques I ended up on the worst bus of all to get to Vilnius…an overnight bus…but anyway, that’s another (and not nearly as painful) story.

I had visited Krakow, where my train arrived into, on my last trip around Eastern Europe and was keen to see something different so I skipped through and caught the first train straight up to the capital Warsaw, it had been a long journey on the train to get there and I was tired and hungry by the time I got to Krakow. This probably didn’t help me miss the fact there is actually a one hour time difference which was a bit confusing when trying to buy a ticket and I tried to argue with the ticket lady about it until she politely pointed out the time was in fact 3.30 not 4.30. But it was amazing how the train station people were helpful and spoke English! I managed to get a train leaving immediately and somehow ended up with a bag of M&M’s to eat…another healthy addition to my day of train station bought junk food. I had taken a slow train so arrived in Warsaw about 10.30pm, a long 16 hour day on the trains. I walked to my hostel and went straight to bed. I only had a day in Warsaw as I would leave on the evening on a night bus so I headed out alone for a mega day of walking and seeing a lot of stuff in a short space of time. It was actually really nice to be in a western style city, probably the most western place I had been so far.


I managed to get my bus ticket and walked around the wide streets and parks eventually getting to the Warsaw Rising museum which was about the fight against Germans and the Soviet invasion. Basically Poland was screwed by everyone, being in a bad location in terms of other people wanting your land. It’s always sad to learn more about how so many of these eastern European countries were screwed by both Germany and Russia for so long with one bad regime following the next. The Warsaw Rising was when Warsaw tried to hold out against the Germans but lost, the museum was really interesting and really well put together with lots of interesting information also lots of horrific scenes from the fighting and the concentration camps which are mostly around Poland. Very sad but a good museum,  and made my walking around the city more interesting as I learnt a bit more about the important sites. Heaps of the city was destroyed but there is still a very impressive but touristy old town that I checked out with a really good market square.

I had a nice healthy lunch at a vege café to have a break from the incredibly stodgy Ukrainian food. As my bus wasn’t until 11 that night I went to a mall and window shopped in H&M and some other clothing shops, not that I can actually carry any more clothes, but it was nice to look around and not just look at churches and old buildings!


(The big building dubbed Stalin’s Birthday cake)

Back at the hostel I got chatting to an English guy and went to a jazz bar for a quick drink then it was time to get my bags and jump on the 9 hour bus to Vilnius, the Lithuanian capital. So a short but action packed day in Warsaw, I actually liked the city, not many people do but I guess it was a nice change from other places I had been, and had people who were actually helpful and friendly! Like they actually wanted to serve me! Amazing!

The bus ride was actually good as there was an Aussie and an English travelling together-Tom and Hal and another Aussie guy, Joe sitting near me, plus a group of Romanian girls who spoke perfect English so I had a cool journey chatting to them and got a bit of sleep arriving nice and early in Vilnius where the 4 of us headed to our hostel.

Ukraine-an intro to the real Russia

Sunday, September 14th, 2008

The 20 hour journey towards Lviv (or Lvov in Russian) was a frustratingly slow and altogether soviet experience, it was probably the most eastern European feeling, no other tourists, lots of big ugly apartment blocks scattered through the country side, lots of abandoned factories and a few villages that probably haven’t changed for years. With my lack of Russian or any useful languages I made friends with the 2 year old in the next section and we had fun checking out the cows out the window. I was in the open plan carriage, similar to trains in India with an open corridor type thing along one side with 4 beds on one side then 2 next to the window, I actually prefer it to the closed 4 berth cabin type trains as there is more room, more chance to walk around and more people about. The attendants on the train cranked up their small cassette player the whole journey with Justin Timberlake, ABBA, M people and other sweet 90’s hits. Not that they spoke any English, but I had fun singing along to myself trying to keep myself occupied as I had no book and only limited ipod battery. Eventually we rolled into the beautiful train station of Lviv, full of more unhelpful staff. I finally changed a few euro’s and got enough money to take an awesome old school tram into town which threatened to stop at any moment, but I guess its been working for the last 40years so why stop now.

It was a lot colder in the Ukraine and finally I fished out my shoes and jersey, which I have been lugging round since I left home and barely used. Time for the cold north and the end of summer which was winding up with the beginning of September, it will only get colder from here and already I was wishing for the same hot weather I have been complaining about for the last 2 months. I found my hostel OK, a cool little place all kind of soviet kitsch style with a great kitchen and big table, and….other backpackers! Amazing after too much time alone on the train and in Chisinau.

Lviv is picked to become the ‘next big thing’ in Europe as it a beautiful old town pretty much untouched by the wars, lots of historic buildings and churches.

I spent the day wandering aimlessly, seeing about 8 weddings taking place (they seem to be following me round), drinking coffee, getting lost trying to follow a map with English street signs when really everything is in Cyrillic. There was much more Cyrillic than in Bulgaria and Moldova, everything is Cyrillic and so a bit daunting trying to figure things out, plus no one speaks English and like usual no one wants to help you if you are a tourist! I managed to find a book market and found an English trashy book which was really better than nothing! My evening was pretty quiet as not too many people around the hostel. Late at night I met an American chick who arrived so we hung out the next morning in an attempt to buy train tickets.  But the women refused to help us and we ended up dragging this Ukrainian guy staying at the hostel down to the ticket office to translate. It was hilariously frustrating as the women refused to try to help us. I mean come on, a train ticket is not that hard to sell if you speak different languages! Eventually I got a ticket and ended up with the Ukrainian guy, a Hungarian guy and a French guy and we did a bit of a tour around the city, seeing some churches and climbing up a hill.

It was great actually having this Ukrainian guy with us, he was just visiting for the day and could actually ask directions which was oh so helpful. For lunch we stopped at this awesome place called Phaza Khata which was a huge canteen type thing where we had delicious potato dumplings and beetroot soup, everything covered in sour cream, so unhealthy but so so good.There are lots of cool cafes and bars around and a group of us headed out to a cute place later on for ice cream and coffee which was hidden down an ally way.


(inside the blue bottle)

(outside the entrance way to the cafe)

We actually used my phrase book and deciphered a bit of the menu which was exciting!On my last day around the city myself and the American girl somehow ended up in a university class as guest speakers to an English class. The teacher had overheard us on the way to the post shop and gotten us o come speak to her class as it was the first day. It was random but really nice and lovely students. The university is in an amazingly old building, there are lots of students around the town and we had arrived in the first days of class. I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the streets getting a few jobs done then meet up with some others for more delicious Phaza Khata for lunch then a bit of a hunt around for a nice café, we ended up at strange place with dodgy pictures on the menu and crazy wallpaper and our bill coming inside a high heel shoe. Again my phrase book came in handy and I managed to order chocolate mousse which was excellent. I really enjoyed my few days in the Ukraine and am a  bit gutted I didn’t get to spend more time there as there seems like lots of other cool places to go to. It was a bit of an introduction to just how difficult Russia will be with Cyrillic alphabet and unhelpful people. But very cool place.


(a very random pig lying on the road)


I left early the next morning on a train bound for Krakow in Poland, which would have been a short journey if not for their strange way of changing the wheels on the train as the soviets have different tracks than the rest of Europe. So we had a long 4 hour wait at the border while we did that but eventually we got going and headed into Poland.

time to bring out the thermals

Thursday, September 11th, 2008
Well just to let you all know for those who rely on my blog as the only source of contact....I am alive and well and just getting a bit slack! Have made it up to Tallinn in Estonia, right up ... [Continue reading this entry]

Back to Soviet days: Moldova

Saturday, September 6th, 2008
Coming in at the number one most random country I have visited, Moldova is about as far off the beaten track you can go in Europe and lives up to its (non) reputation of a strange, soviet country with no ... [Continue reading this entry]

thats not yoghurt

Thursday, September 4th, 2008
So like I mentioned before Dracula is based on some guy called Vlad who would impale people, still he's the closest thing to the Dracula we know so of course towns connected to him capitalize on the Dracula thing, a ... [Continue reading this entry]

our unsuccessful castle visit

Tuesday, September 2nd, 2008
Brasov is the perfect place for day trips around transylvania so a few us headed out for the day to Sinaia to visit the Peles castle that was there. I was with Pete who is an english guy spending 2 ... [Continue reading this entry]

You know you’re in Eastern Europe when…

Sunday, August 31st, 2008
  • All females are wearing high heels, miniskirts and low cut tops at all times of the day
  • Leopard print is still in fashion
  • there is a street named after a date in 1989, ie. "31 August 1989"
  • there is a lot of fountains
  • Beer ... [Continue reading this entry]

Transylvania-without the vampires

Sunday, August 31st, 2008
Awhile ago I watched this truly awful movie called 'Vlad" set in Transylvania about vampire hunting and weird things about Vlad...it was probably the worst movie ever, luckily in reality Transylvania is great! And not really at all dark and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bucharest

Friday, August 29th, 2008
Arriving into Romania, myself, Sam and Jess all split off towards our different hostels. Already the train station was a lot more developed than  Bulgaria, it was big and busy and lots going on.

[Continue reading this entry]

Veliko Tarnovo

Friday, August 29th, 2008

Bulgaria was turning out to be a cheap country so I ended up staying 3 nights at Veliko's Hostel Mostel-which also happens to be the best hostel this end of Europe, it has an almost cult status ... [Continue reading this entry]