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back to Dahab

Sunday, July 27th, 2008

Going back to Dahab I wasn’t keen on another 9 hour bus and because we were short on time we decided to fly to Sharm which is only an hour from Dahab. We got a taxi in the morning and almost missed the flight because flights to Sharm for some reason leave from a separate terminal which is impossible to get to and true to Egyptian style no-one will give us any information. But we made it and flew over the red mountainous expanse to Sharm-El-Sheik, a resort tourism spot. We were going to wait the 4 hours for the bus to get to Dahab but ended up in a taxi which was pretty cheap to take us the whole way. The taxi driver actually convinced us to let him take us and offered a price, however upon getting there he decided he wanted an extra, very large tip. A bit of arguing before our hotel guy came out and got rid of him.

The hotel ended up giving us separate double rooms for the same price because there were no rooms left with 2 beds, so we had nice flash rooms all to ourselves. Again in Dahab we spent the rest of the day and the following day lying around eating and reading with the occasional swim. Nice after the madness of Cairo.

After our day of laziness we got on a minibus to take us up the coast to the town of Nuweiba where we would catch the ferry across to Jordan. The process it took to get the 2 hour ferry was totally ridiculous, but what can you really expect from Egypt? On the minibus heading the same way were two American guys I had meet on a minibus tour in Aswan about 10 days so it was kind of random to see them again. So together we tried to get on this ferry.

First we got tickets after walking to the wrong place, so back to buy the most expensive tickets ever at $80USD, which was totally stupid but you have to do these things sometime. So we go through some sort of customs, walk around some docking yard for ages, no signs or anything. Eventually we find an office stamping our passports and get on a bus on the ferry. We probably get on the ferry at 12.30 but don’t end up leaving until around 5pm, we just had to sit and wait while the whole thing filled up and they were ready to leave. It was pretty frustrating. Eventually we got going and made it across to Jordan where there was a special bus for foreigners waiting to take us to do passport stuff. We were the only foreigners so the bus only took us leaving the hundreds of other passengers behind. Kind of strange. They had taken our passports on the boat so we waited (getting good at that by now)  in some sort of arrivals lounge which was only half built until we got our passports back with a free visa and exited out in some back alleyway climbing over rubble to be greeted (read accosted) by taxi drivers. But this stage it was about 7pm and we hadn’t eaten all day. We negotiated a taxi to take us the hour and half to Petra for 35JD (about $70), however after driving onto the town area another taxi driver who spoke english turned up and told us our driver didn’t want to take us and he would take us for 40JD, the whole thing was a bit strange and I am sure they were scamming us but it was late and we were tired so we got in the taxi, just wanting to get there. The driver turned out to be pretty nice and drove us around different hotels until we got a nice place with a tv in our room! Bliss….so we all grabbed some food from down the road and finally got to bed at 11pm, 13 hours after leaving Dahab, for a journey that should have really taken 4 hours!

Jordan is much more expensive than Egypt, about double the price so we need to be careful with money! But I think I needed to get out of Egypt as I was getting a bit cynical and pissed off with people!

and finally…the Pyramids!

Saturday, July 26th, 2008

I had another night in Dahab before heading back to Cairo to meet Mum, it was also Brian’s last night so we meet up and watched a bit of fightclub at one of the bars then both headed to bed as we were shattered from the climb the night before. I said goodbye in the morning as he headed off to Jordan and I jumped on a 9 hour bus ride back to Cairo. So ended our group, great to have good people to travel with but time to go separate ways and move into the next part of my trip with my lovely mother.

I didn’t arrive in Cairo till late at night, and mum didn’t fly in till 3am so I saw her briefly when she got in but soon fell asleep enjoying my first night with air-conditioning. Our hostel is on the 5th floor of this big old building with the most old school elevator of all time, literally straight from the 18th century, I cannot believe how it keeps going, but a you can see its very cool looking. It just goes straight up the middle of the stair well, crazy times

(our amazingly old but still working hostel lift)

That morning we headed off to do what everyone does in Egypt, go see the Pyramids! We took the metro half way then ended up in a taxi with possibly the only driver in Cairo who didn’t know where the pyramids were, a lot of asking questions and suddenly, there they were! The pyramids are actually in Cairo, like in the city, not in some huge dessert in the middle of nowhere, so out from being apartment buildings and hotels the points of them stick out in a kind of surreal way.

We somehow managed to come in a back entrance avoiding getting scammed by anyone, I had heard of people ending up paying stupid amounts for guides and camels but all we had to pay was the relatively cheap entrance fee. It was hot, but not as hot as Aswan or the Luxor and they were amazing, more amazing than some monuments which are a bit disappointing in real life. We could climb up a bit of the way on the big one then wandered around the are looking at the 2 smaller ones and the sphinx, luckily it wasn’t too busy which was nice. We spent a couple of hours taking the required cheesy photos and being amazed at the enormity of them. They really were very cool.

Afterward we wandered around the streets a bit more grabbing some bread straight out of the oven then the most dangerous taxi ride ever with a driver intent on crashing his car. Luckily we made it and after a break from the heat at our hotel we walked down to see the Egyptian museum, which unlike the Pyramids, was busy-very very busy. But definitely worth seeing. All the empty tombs from Luxor had their contents here in the museum and the coolest of all, everything from king tut’s tomb including the famous death mask made from gold. It was all really amazing to see the detail and effort put into burying kings and royalty. The mummy goes inside about 4 different coffins then another 5 different box things, then inside a huge tomb with lots of stuff, gold and pots and tables and everything else you can think of. Very interesting and things are amazingly well preserved.

The other things were cool, lots of old old old things from all around the place, eventually it gets all similar, you know just another 2000 year old mummy, so we headed back home then out for a quick bite to eat, nice and cheap-around $2.50 for huge plates of falafel, bread, eggplant and salads. We then jumped in a taxi to see the Islamic area and market which I saw on my first time in the city. We wandered around the stalls almost getting talked into to buying plastic pyramids with glitter, but just couldn’t do it. Its really nice in the evening as lots of people are out and its nice and cool.

Mum of course had to see the Nile so we headed down there to see if we could get on a felucca for a short cruise. The river was packed with disco part boats, full of Egyptians, sitting calmly with terrible arab pop blaring from speakers and flashing lights all over the boat, it was incredible that anyone would actually pay to go on one. We found a plain felucca with no lights and negotiated a 30 minute cruise which ended up meaning we crossed to the other side then came back again. It was weird, I guess there wasn’t really any wind so we couldn’t go anywhere, but it was really very strange and we pretty much got ripped off. But we saw the Nile!

So a huge day with mum and packed lots into one day, Cairo was as busy and dirty as I remembered but good to be around some real culture after Dahab….however once getting mum the next day we headed back to Dahab for a few nights before crossing to Jordan

Mt Sinai

Saturday, July 26th, 2008
Exodus 19:20 The LORD descended to the top of Mount Sinai and called Moses to the top of the mountain. Mt Sinai is pretty important in terms of christian (and Jewish and Muslim) history, its where Moses received the 10 commandments ... [Continue reading this entry]

Escaping to the Beach

Thursday, July 24th, 2008
OK, so I know that I should probably be taking the opportunity in Egypt to immerse myself in amazing temples and tombs but too be honest, it gets a bit much, especially when you are in 40 degrees and fighting ... [Continue reading this entry]

tombs and more temples

Thursday, July 24th, 2008
After meeting Brian on the Felucca, me, Hugh and Brian formed a little team for the following week. Hugh, the english gap year student, extremely polite and frequently uses words such as "wonderful" and "delightful" (I know you are probably ... [Continue reading this entry]

I think I am allergic to Egypt

Thursday, July 24th, 2008
As an aside to the usual chronological adventures....I have decided I must be allergic to Egypt. Since I arrived I have been getting bites everywhere despite the absence of bugs anywhere. Not too much of a problem, just very itchy. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Up the Nile

Monday, July 21st, 2008
To go from Aswan up to Luxor you can drive, train or go up the Nile, depending on your budget this means a big fancy cruise ship, or a very basic felucca- nothing much in between. But to be honest, ... [Continue reading this entry]

temples and mini vans in Aswan

Friday, July 18th, 2008

Some people seem to deal with heat OK, despite being 45 degrees they look fine, make-up and hair still in place and charging around the streets without seeming to notice the crazy heat. I am not one of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cairo 101

Monday, July 14th, 2008
Don't stop and talk to anyone Just cross the road, even if there are 100 cars coming towards you Ignore every second guy saying "hello lovely" to you Find a good felafel shop Cairo is a pretty intense city, when flying in, our plane ... [Continue reading this entry]

walk like an Egyptian

Thursday, July 10th, 2008
this will be a very short post as internet is expensive where I am, and when I say expense I mean $2.50 an hour...which may not seem expensive but it should be 50 cents an hour...so all relative I guess. Anyway ... [Continue reading this entry]