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the Thai side of China

Sunday, December 7th, 2008

My sleeper bus into Jinghong was long and painful, mostly because I was just a little too big for the beds and also I was in the middle row of bunks and had people on either side of me camped out in the aisles. But after 15 hours we pulled into Jinghong, main city of the Xishuangbanna autonomous region which is home to the Dai people plus lots of other tribes. Down in Banna it basically feels like South-East Asia and is very Thai-like with temples and buildings all reminding me of the Thai wats. Life is also a lot slower than the rest of the china, its warm humid and loads of tropical forest filled with hill tribes which cross over a lot with Northern Thailand. So lots of fresh fruit and coconut curries, very good!

But of course underneath it all it’s still China. On the bus I had met 2 American guys, Ben and John who were studying Chinese so I happily stuck with them as they translated everything. We grabbed a taxi to a guesthouse with raised bamboo huts and spent the day wandering around trying to adjust to the new heat and humidity. Along our street was Mei-Mei’s cafe which we quickly worked out was the cool place to hang out with other tourists, there I met Stuart who I had shared a room with in Dali and the other guys had trekked Tiger Leaping gorge with so we hung out together for the next few days. In the evening we visited the night market and had a few cheap beers and dinner out and about and sorted out hiring a car and driver for the following day to go to a waterfall.

So the next day we bundled up into our car and about an hours drive through lush green jungle we pulled up to a village and hiked the hour or so to the waterfall, we got lost a few times trying to find the totally unmarked path which surprisingly had very few people on it.


But we eventually made it to the totally secluded and remote waterfall after following along the hills. It was really beautiful and we swam a bit and jumped off the rocks before drying in the sun and heading back to the car.

Great day trip and good to be able to share the cost with the boys, went through amazingly beautiful jungle and hardly anyone around which is rare in China, walk was good, not too difficult at all so good day, we just should have taken food with us as we were starving by the end. Back in town we ate more food, drunk more beer and stalked a guy who Stuart swore was an English paedophile who had escaped prison.

 The Americans took off the next morning to Laos and Stuart was leaving in the afternoon to another village so we spent the morning biking around. Apparently there are lots of villages and things close to bike to but we didn’t quite make it there, saw the Mekong and dodged a bit of traffic and carried our bikes through a few bits before finding a nice quite path through scenic fields.


Stuart had to leave on his bus after lunch so we dropped the bikes off and I spent the afternoon sorting out money and bus tickets for my early morning start the next day heading into Laos. I was actually in Jinghong because there was supposed to be a boat that went down the Mekong right into Thailand, but of course it wasn’t runing the week I wanted and with m visa about to expire I needed to get out and Laos was the easiest option to get into Thailand quickly…well so I thought… 

Dali-more old towns and city walls

Saturday, December 6th, 2008

Apparently the bus ride from Shangri-la to Dali is beautiful but I slept most of the way, just waking up as we approached the lake which Dali is close to, driving round the lake was nice with green fields and big mountains. I jumped off the bus close to Dali old town, as the bus heads into the 20km away Dali real town. Ignoring offers of taxis I decided to try to walk to my hostel, getting hopelessly lost of course and trying to figure out whether I was actually inside or outside the city walls.

(Dali city walls)

Eventually I made to the ‘Jade Emu’ hostel, brand new and run by a Aussie/Chinese couple, an excellent place with an amazing ensuite bathroom on the dorm, best shower I’ve ever had and they even give you towels and shampoo! Plus lots of books, movies and just a generally great place.

Recovering from my mission to get there I hung out at the hostel fom the afternoon making use of fee internet and dvd’s and sharing hotpot with an American guy for dinner. For only 15 yuan you can get hotpot at the hostel with unbelievable amounts of food, good times indeed and a bit less spicy than the last one. My next full day I did what I usually do in new places, wandered around and ate food….saw the city walls, lots of shops, lots of tourists. I like Dali a lot better than Lijang, still lots of tourists but a bit more ‘real’ feeling, as in not only existing for tourists. Its more laid back and in beautiful location with big hills behind it.


So after eating and shopping I headed back to the hostel where I met up with Ian in my room and we grabbed some dinner in town and walked around the streets for a few hours before bed time.When I was driving in to Dali we went through some really nice green fields between the hills and the lake so I hired a bike for the day and set off on what turned out to be a bit of an epic 7 hour bike ride. I just kept biking and then eventually realised I had to get back still which was a lot harder with a head wind. By the end I was over it, but the first part was great, biking through green vegetable fields, saw the huge 3 pagodas, lots of other people cruising around on bikes. Really relaxed and nice and went through a few villages.


 On the way back I went down the main road which was a bit flatter, this was a lot more busy with lots of buses and cars going back and of course a head wind. Finally I made it back exhausted but at least having done some exercise! The hostel was doing another hotpot and this time there were a load of people including the owner so we had a massive dinner with never ending food, it was great!My bus to Jinghong was leaving the following night and after my mega ride the day before I just relaxed for the day, I went out for lunch with Ian and we sat in the sun and wandered around a bit, then it was time to leave, another night sleeping bus with too small beds, for 15 hours south again to Jinghong, my final China destination

finding my Shangri-la

Friday, December 5th, 2008
Shangri-La was first a fictional place described in the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by British author James Hilton. It was a mythical Himalayan paradise where everyone was happy and things were sweet. Since then Shangri-la ha been used as ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Monday, December 1st, 2008
This 2 day trek through a gorge close to Lijang has become one of China's top things to do. And its not for Chinese tourists either, there is no paved road and music, just a gorge and a path. I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kunming to Lijang

Saturday, November 29th, 2008
Kunming was my 4th Chinese city so I was a bit over it and keen to get into the rural areas quicker. It is a pretty nice city though and if it was the first place I had been I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Holy mountains with fist fights

Saturday, November 29th, 2008
Our final days in Chengdu we decided to get active and headed off bright an early to climb Mt Qingchensan, a nearby holy Taoist mountain. Now when I say climb, I don't really mean climb, more like walk. As with ... [Continue reading this entry]

Why panda’s are the worlds most useless animals

Wednesday, November 26th, 2008
Chengdu is very famous for panda's, basically the only remaining wild ones live close by and there is a big panda breeding center in the city. The government has thrown a lot of money into panda breeding the last few ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sichuan spice

Wednesday, November 26th, 2008

So my train to Chengdu wasn't nearly as flash as the one to Xian, same class but just a bit crappier. I was settling in for a long night of train crazy-ness, which is a bit more crazy than ... [Continue reading this entry]

Xian and the terracotta warriors

Saturday, November 22nd, 2008
Sometimes things are famous for the sake of being famous, much like many 'famous' paintings, statues, buildings etc, I have often wondered, why, out of all the things there are, is this particular thing famous? I mean why is the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sight seeing madness

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008
The rest of our days in Beijing we saw a lot. We actually began to get up early and ever got back till after dinner after massive days of sightseeing. its actually amazing how long the days really are when ... [Continue reading this entry]