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The Great Wall…and not-so-great transport

Monday, November 17th, 2008

Of course being in China there are a few things which are ‘must see’s’, the most obvious being The Great Wall (TGW). It is one of the new wonders of the world as well so I can add it to my list of ones I have seen, only 2 more to go to complete all 7!

The wall is pretty long (obviously) so there are quite a few places you ca go and see it at. I wanted to go to  bit called Simitai which is apparently a bit less touristy, while Rdoc and Tom wanted to do a hike which went from one part across to Simitai. The LP said it was a 4 hour walk up hill which I wasn’t really interested in, I just wanted to see a bit then get back to town to get some other things done. Of course things never work out as planned and the entire day turned out to be a lesson in patience as we somehow got involved in the great ‘great wall’ trasport scam.

Of course it looks easy in the LP, although by now we should have learn’t that it never is as easy as “just change to one of the regular cheap mini buses”. We all headed together for the first part which was easy enough, get to the bus station and take a bus to a town outside of Beijing. Strangely there were some over helpful women showing us the bus but we managed to mostly avoid them and got on our way. Of course though they had lined up taxis at the other end for us and one of their associates had gotten on the bus with us. Once we were getting into this town, we asked were to get off and this Chinese lady on the bus told the driver to tell us to get off at this main road. Waiting were lots of taxi’s and the women from the bus also got off and her car was there (how convenient) and tried to organise us a taxi. We ignored them all and tried to find the shared mini buses to get there. This lady was crazy insistent and followed us around in her car for about an hour making sure we couldn’t get on to a mini bus without her talking to them and then charging us some exorbitant price. It was super frustrating but eventually we got in one for reasonably cheap, although I was charged more than the boys even though it turns out I was only going half as far. Also while the driver said he would take me to the wall he actually dropped me 10km from the wall where there were even more taxis waiting charging more money.

By this time I was super pissed off and just started walking towards the wall getting more and more angry. After a bit a guy stopped ad took me to the wall, he was a photographer and was wondering what I was doing trying to walk the 10km to Simitai. So that was really nice.

TGW was of course amazing, the only downside is that is really just looked just like the photos, I mean really just like every picture you’ve ever seen. It stretched out across he top of this hill ad then once you were up you could look out and see it zig-zagging across the hills. It was beautiful of course and very very impressive, my photos though, look exactly how you’d expect! The best part was it really was quiet, hardly any other tourists, which made a good change from the rest of Beijing. Plus it was hot and sunny with clear blue skies which made it really beautiful and great views right across the wall.

(Really only one photo is needed as it really just looks like how you would picture it)

 Once you are up on TGW you realise that the whole reason of it being a defense thing was actually a bit useless, its not very high or wide at all, certainly not something that would keep out armies. And really it didn’t as Genghis Khan easily broke through the wall a few times I think. Also recently the first Chinese astronaut was sent into space and upon returning was asked by waiting Chinese media if you could indeed see TGW from space as we have always been led to believe….well turns out you can’t. And really why should you be able to. Its long, but so are lots of roads and rivers and mountains. But despite it not really being much use in warfare, it makes a very cool thing to see. Its really steep, with dodgy stairs and crumbling sides. The watch towers break up the sections which have little rooms and windows. I ended up climbing right up the top of the Simitai section and by the time I was heading back down Rdoc and Tom were arriving, turns out it only took like 2 hours to walk ad I probably did just as much walking as them! But having 3 of us made it easier to bargain a lift back to the bus station. Of course there is some monopoly on taxis and we couldn’t get a cheap ride. We eventually found an American couple who had a mini van they hired waiting for them, but the driver refused to let us come unless we paid just as much as they had paid, super frustrating! eventually we gave in and he handed over half as commission to the taxi ‘ring leader’. Very annoying, but eventually we got there, got a bus and made it back to Beijing, quite late by now and didn’t really get to do all the other things I wanted, but despite frustrating transport TGW was very cool and well worth it. I would totally recommend people do an organized tour though as it works out to be about the same price and far, far less hassle.

I love Beijing

Saturday, November 15th, 2008

Yep, I really do love Beijing. Maybe it was the contrast of having average food over the previous 6 weeks and too much wide open space, and the unfriendly-ness, expensiveness and language problems of Russia. And lots of cold weather. Because by contrast Beijing was warm, friendly, food everywhere and good, cheap, english speaking, big buildings, ally ways bursting with character, so much to do and see. Basically it was awesome. We spent about 4 and a half days there which wasn’t enough time to see even half the stuff  there is but we did pack a lot in! For the first time we started getting up early, and actually leaving the hostel before 9am to fill the entire day with stuff and arrive back exhausted in the evening. Needless to say we didn’t actually go ‘out’ in Beijing as we were shattered every day from seeing so much stuff.

Our hostel was not exactly the ambient courtyard as described in the LP, more a hotel with a small courtyard across the road. So our windowless basement dorm wasn’t the best but it was cheap and clean as situated in the perfect location. Beijing used to be all hutongs which are little alleyways, most have been knocked down for high rises but they still remain and we were staying in the best hutong ever (I swear really its the perfect street). It was only about 15 minuted walk from Tienanmen square and pretty had everything you could need down it.

Firstly the food, which is really the best part about China. Down the hutong was full of every type of food you could want. There were little hole in the wall restaurants serving noodles and veges, hotpot places, dumpling places, a guy who made these yum omelet things in the morning. Some people who had seaseme balls in the morning and kebabs in the evening, a Muslim grill which did lamb kebabs and amazingly good bread with chilli and cumin, a place that had egg muffins, fruit shops, and of course lots and lots of duck.  Different times of the day meant different food and the morning was steamed buns, big towers of bamboo steamers overflowed onto the streets and for around a dollar you could get a big plate of vege or meat buns. In the evening the more typical chinese places would fill up with huge piles of meat and vege dishes with hilarious names on their english menus like “exploding pigs belly” and “dressed vinegar potatoes” and more which were so ridiculous I can’t even remember. So of course I love food so I was very happy.

Our first night we headed straight out to check out the Olympic park. Everywhere you look is Olympic stuff, from coke cans and snickers bars to billboards and street sellers. Everything is Olympic branded, and why not as the Olympic areas are truly amazing and you can see why Beijing is so pumped about it. We went in the evening on the newly expanded metro, the Olympic line was pretty empty but you can just imagine it being packed with people during August. Coming out into the Olympic park the huge birds nest stadium was all lit up, looking even more spectacular than on tv screens, the tv tower had different light sequences lighting it up and the swimming pool, blue bubble thing was mind blowingly cool. There were still a lot of people hanging around taking photos and buying merchandise. The whole thing was really really amazing. Hard to see how any other Olympic city could compete with this. And it wasn’t tacky over-the-top amazing, it was all well done, stylish and just cool. Despite the fact they probably made thousands of people homeless to build it, it was very impressive.

On the way back to our hutong for dinner, I suddenly felt very, very hungry and a bit dizzy, mostly because I had hardly eaten anything all day as we were on the train and back in Mongolia I was too lazy to go buy train food. So feeling a bit faint I had to sit down on the subway platform for a rest, while I said to Tom and Rdoc that I really thought I was going to faint. Well turns out that I did faint, I just couldn’t remember the last few minutes. So as I lay on the ground spinning out a bit and getting funny looks, Tom ran off to get me some coke.  Coke made me feel a lot better and soon we were back, sat at the first restaurant we saw and had an awesome dinner with duck, spicy veges, tofu, beer, tea, all for about $5 each. Awesome.

(Before)

(After)