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Goodbye Russia

Thursday, November 6th, 2008

From Olkhon Island it was another long 7 hour journey back into Irkutsk where we picked up our passports (complete with Mongolia visa!) and made use of the rest of the day which was an amazing 16 degrees (the warmest since Lithuania). I had a wander around the big food market where I picked up some vege’s for dinner. I really love shopping in markets, it’s so cool and such a great way to buy stuff, its like real life, all these people out buying food from the same old lady...it’s a fun time. There were lots of old babushka’s with tiny tables just selling a handful of goods, like a couple of tomatoes and a few bunches of herbs. I brought my vege’s off a friendly lady who even had a semi conversation with me about where I was from (in sign language of course). It was fun.

On the way out you could also get your photo taken with giant taxidermy bears….part of Russians strange obsession with bears. Back at the hostel there were loads more people around and we cooked dinner and hung out for a bit until bed. The next day was our last day in Russia before our train later that night, crazy to think how the month went by so fast and a little bit sad as after a month you kind of get a handle on how things work, although in Russia its pretty much impossible, but you do learn a few things, then it’s time to leave again, off to a new country with a whole new set of rules and customs. Of course it was freezing our last day, like glacier cold so didn’t get up to too much, just did a few jobs, did some train shopping and managed to track down some Russian dolls to buy (souvenirs basically don’t exist after Moscow).

Then we were packed up and headed off to the train station to meet up with Janinna, Juliet, Paulon, plus half our hostel and a whole lot more backpackers on the train. Actually the ‘train’ to UB was really only a carriage, about 70% westerners, the carriage got attached to lots of different trains over the course of the 36 hour train journey.

So it was time to leave Russia…I feel like I could write a whole book on thoughts about Russia and travelling there, perhaps one day I will. But for now here are a few thoughts….

Russian oddities

Fashion

Although the boys tend to disagree with me on this one, every single female traveler I have met has always pointed it out or thought the same. Basically most girls in Russian dress….well like prostitutes, OK maybe not most girls, and maybe not quite like prostitutes but leaning that way. Pretty much everyone wears high heeled boots, and not just normal boots like knee and thigh high patent shiny leather boots, with mini skirts. And jackets that are so shiny and tacky they could be made from plastic backs. Then there’s the fur which is rather practical for the weather but just all so tacky, I mean whole white fun coats are just not cool. So you see why guys like it, they can check out all the girls in their tight clothes. And I guess its not too bad for most of the girls who are all tall and thin and beautiful but problems really start when the above 40’s start to urmm…express themselves with tight, tight clothing. The further you get away from St P’s the less classy it is and more tacky. Its all just a bit strange and seems to be way to much effort for every day wear, I mean stiletto boots down to the grocery store??

Queues

Like many non-western countries, queuing is not something that is ingrained in society, Mc Donalds was apparently the first place to teach Thai’s how to queue and the Chinese have been getting lessons in the lead up to the Olympics. Russia seems to be trying to get crowds to queue but in fact have the worst queuing systems ever invented, I mean even in management science 101 I learned more about queuing. Its odd. Most queues form sideways, along the counter, which eventually runs out of space, or there is no queue and pushing. Or there is 3 different places to queue to get a tickets to give to someone to get some then to pay for it. Lots of time the queues are just set up badly leaving little room for people to actually wait, only opening one ticket window at a time or not setting it up so people can actually use all the ticket windows. And one people make it to the front of the queue because they have waited so long they will make sure they ask every question and make full use of the service making queuing a long drawn out process. Queuing is a surprisingly strange process in Russia

Old ladies

Pretty much old ladies or ‘babushkas’ rule Russia. Whatever they want, they get. You can always tell a babushka because of her stooped walk, angry face, with a head scarf and always carrying two plastic bags full of stuff. They push in front of you in every queue possible, push you out of the way to get pasty, steal your bed in the train or sleep all day on the bed you’re supposed to sit in. As you can tell by the end of Russia we no longer like old women

Photo’s

People love to take photos of themselves in Russia, particularly girls. Everywhere you go are groups of chicks posing for each other in photos. So you can kind of fit in as a tourist taking photos everywhere. Although it is a little weird, all these girls full on posing with these weird angry faces I guess trying to look ‘good’ or something. People also like to dress up and go do photo shoots of themselves in parks and things, in the typical cheesy style, twirling under leaves, leaning seductively against a tree…its all a bit weird. Wedding photos are even stranger as we arrived in the wedding month so every city from St P’s to Irkutsk had wedding parties having photos shoots in public spaces, the groom never really having anything to do with it, always just stuck in the photo as an afterthought while the bride is always in her element. Its all strange

Other bizarre things are the useless traffic management system, a strange tendency to continue building ugly cold war apartment blocks while over half the city still has unfinished buildings…and well about a million other things. Russia is definitely an interesting place to travel in and while it was hard I did really enjoy it and keen to fight the visa bureaucracy once more

Birthday fun on a big big lake

Saturday, November 1st, 2008

Making it to Irkutsk was a pretty big milestone as it was our last destination in Russia, we had made it across Siberia and were hoping things were going to get a bit easier as there are actually tourists in Irkutsk. Most travellers on the trans-sib only stop in Irkutsk before heading on the Mongolia so there are a few hostels and actually other tourists, which was a bit of a novelty. It was kind of funny though as you spend so long not seeing any other backpackers and thinking you are the only ones in Russia when suddenly there are all these other people who have been doing the same thing as you and it doesn’t feel so adventurous any more. We had a couple of nights in Irkutsk which is a nice town close to lake Baikal, the world’s biggest lake. Baikal is so big it contains 20% of the worlds drinking supply, and if the world ran out of water it could provide enough water for the entire population for the next 40 years. We are talking about a big big lake here. Which is why Irkutsk is so popular, although it’s not right on the lake it’s a jumping off point for lake side towns. We were going to head out to Olkhon Island but had a day in Irkutsk to look around. It was however, freezing cold and at one point started to snow. I was over it so after we dropped our passports off to get our Mongolian visa’s and handing over money for the most expensive train ticket so far to Mongolia, I hid back in our dorm room in the warm. It was nice to be in a hostel again and meet some other travelers to hear stories and swap tips over a few beers. There were just five of us on the second night there, we all cooked tea together, made cookies with left over ingredients we found in the cupboard and watched a dvd. So normal but nice way to spend a night.

The drive to Olkhon Island was 7 hours so we headed out early to find a mini bus which supposedly left at 9. After ditching our tram because it got stuck in the most ridiculous traffic jam ever (even I could plan Russia’s traffic systems better) we headed off on foot to find the bus station and ended up getting spotted by a driver (do we stand out that much as tourists?) and were loaded on to a mini bus. The drive over to the island was really beautiful passing yellow fields and clear blue skies. We picked up passengers along the way and the mini bus filled up and emptied out at different points. The area around the lake is home to semi autonomous region of the Buyrat people who look much more Mongolian than Russia, shamanism is big here and we passed lots of ribbons tied around trees and the two ladies in the front threw out a few coins at different holy sites along the way. After a long drive we eventually made it to the ferry to take us across to the island, of course being Russia the whole process took ages and was stupidly organized with heaps of cars and vans trying to drive on at once. While waiting though we had nice views of the lake which is extreamely clear and blue.

In a couple of months the lake will be totally frozen over and there is an ice road across to the island. Finally on the ferry it was short ride across to the island then another half an hour drive to the town which has become really popular with tourists because of this one guest house called Nikkita’s. Nikkita’s is really an amazing place, on this island in the middle of nowhere, after hardly seeing another tourist for weeks we are suddenly at tourist enclave with English speaking staff and people around.

All the rooms are in little cottages, all built really ornately and the place is beautiful. We got a nice room with a fireplace and meet 3 others who had arrived that day, Yennina and Juliet- Dutch and German girls travelling together, and Paulon a French guy. We ended up spending quite a bit of time with them as they were on our train leaving Russia. The best part about the guest house is that is provides all meals so we got a late lunch when we arrived of soup bread and fish in the dining room. We went for a wander down to the lake as the sun was setting, we were near some rocks which have some significance and the ladies from the bus were down the end praying and doing some sort of ritual, and then a group of men close by drinking vodka, there were lots of blue ribbons ties around poles which worship the sky god, so you see those everywhere. The township is on the side of the island close to mainland so looking across it doesn’t look very big but along the side you can see the water stretches on forever.

The town is reasonably sized, but really a collection of ramshackle houses, dirt roads and a lot of cows and dogs wandering around, it’s a very slow and relaxed place but nice. The colours of the yellow island and the blue sky with the setting sun were amazing and we walked along the edge for a bit before cutting back through town and arriving just in time for…dinner! Only a couple of hours after our huge lunch, but another delicious big meal of fish and vegetables. The owner came in to play piano for a bit and we sat around drinking tea and reading before finding the other 3 where we headed to Paulon’s room to drink some vodka. Then it was off to bed, my last night being 22.

We had the full day on the island which was my birthday. It was a beautiful day, warm and sunny, we had a huge breakfast of eggs bread and porridge then hung around for a huge lunch before heading off on a walk trying to walk to the top of the hill behind the town to try get a better view of the lake, of course harder than it looked and we ended up just wandering around the forest for a few hours without really seeing anything, But no worries, we went back to the guest house and me and Rdoc braved the icy waters for a quick dip in the lake which is the cool thing to do, and apparently adds 25 years on to your life. It really was the fastest swim ever, in and out immediately as the water was freezing!

(after our swim…looks warm, but it wasn’t)


But it felt good and was very refreshing! Tom wasn’t feeling well so didn’t come down but of course couldn’t be out done so ended up getting up really early the next morning and going swimming. We meet up with the other 3 who had hired bikes and hadn’t had much success finding the other side of the lake either, had some dinner then I went with them sand they shouted me a birthday banya, a Russian style sauna complete with birch branches to whip each other with, which I got from all three while they sung me happy birthday…one of my more interesting birthdays! It was ridiculously hot but warmed me up from our earlier swim. After enough of the heat we found the boys then went out to find the one small bar on the island which didn’t have many people inside but whole groups of people outside parked up with loud music pumping from their Lada’s. Classic. We had a few beers and played a whole lot of games, thanks to Paulon who has this amazing knack of keeping people entertained.


(Rdoc, Paulon and Yennina at the super cool ‘bar’)

We walked back under the clear sky with thousands of stars. Great way to spend my birthday!

Krasnoyarsk

Saturday, November 1st, 2008

Trans-Siberian part 4: Tomsk-Krasnyarsk

Monday, October 13th, 2008
Tomsk turned out to be a lovely city, the great bargain rooms helped and the weather was perfect, so finally good enough weather to lie around in the sun. Tomsk is a university town so lots of young people around ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trans-Sib part 3:vodka filled trains

Thursday, October 9th, 2008

(Russian train station...we spend a lot of time in buildings like this waiting....)

So this leg of the journey turned out to be one of the toughest. Our train ride was 24 hours, and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trans-Siberian part 2: Kazan to Yekaterinburg

Thursday, October 9th, 2008

Trans-Sib part one: The real journey begins

Thursday, October 9th, 2008

last days of Moscow

Sunday, October 5th, 2008
Our last couple of days in Moscow before heading out east on the Trans-Siberian proper, we spent the day out in one of the "golden ring" towns called Sergiev Posad. Of course a very complicated train situation to get ... [Continue reading this entry]

Moscow? Nyet…

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008

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(St Basil's Cathedral) Nyet (No) seems to be Russian service people’s favourite word. Particularly at train stations where we write in Cyrillic what we want and hand it over, waiting in ... [Continue reading this entry]

We love St Petersburg

Monday, September 29th, 2008
We ended up with 6 days in St Petersburg which was great to stay somewhere and get to know it a bit better. There is so much to do and see so we hardly saw all of it but did ... [Continue reading this entry]