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the weirdest day ever

Thursday, August 28th, 2008

It seems that I cannot cross a border without everything being strange. Crossing into Bulgaria was no different, although just one part of my very weird and possibly life threatening day.

It began with my 3am bus, after trying to get an hour or so sleep before. The bus arrived in the border town around 7.30am and I set about trying to get a bus to somewhere in Bulgaria, no one really spoke english but a guy wrote the name of something down on a bit of paper and sent me on a local bus…I assumed I was heading to another bus station to get a bus to Bulgaria, however after changing buses I was dropped off at the edge of an industrial waste land which happened to be the border.


(what I was dropped off in front off…so welcoming)

“Bulgaria?” I questioned weakly and was pointed in the direction of rows of cars. So I began the long walk through the border which is not set up for people walking at all and I dodged the cars and got a lot of funny looks. It took me about 45minutes to walk through the whole thing hoping that there would be a bus at the end of it all. I had to show my passport about 20 different times and to loads of different checkpoints as I wasn’t really sure where I was supposed to be going. Eventually I emerged at the other end to find out there is in fact no buses anyway. I was about 15 km from the closest town, Svlingrad where there would be buses but had no way of getting there.

I was pretty tired from the early start and sat on the side of the road to consider my options. Once I stood back up with still no clues about what to do a truck driver who was pulled up said something to me in Turkish, I replied with “Svilngrad?” and somehow I worked out that he would take me there. At this point I realised that getting into a truck with a strange driver who spoke no english could possibly be dangerous but also that I had no other option.

Anyway, he seemed nice.

So I jump in this massive big truck, he is actually driving to Belgrade and through Sofia (the capital) and decided to take me there, although I don’t really get this until we drive past the turnoff to Svlingrad. So begins my very strange 5 hour journey to Sofia with the truck driver who spoke no english. We stopped at a few truck stops where the other old men looked at me very strangely and the driver brought me breakfast. It was all very very weird. He was also insistent that he could drive me to Belgrade and then to Germany where he was eventually heading, really I kept saying that Sofia was fine.

After a long long time we were getting close to Sofia, however the turnoff to Belgrade was before the city so I am dumped on the side of the motorway again, with no clue about what to do. I asked some policemen about a bus and they said it was a kilometer down the road so I picked up my pack and started to head off down the motorway. At which point a car pulls up and a chick who speaks perfect english, is like “what are you doing?” I kind of explain to her that I am going to Sofia and she looks very concerned and tells me to get in the car and ends up taking me right to center of town, telling me that I really should not take lifts with strange truck drivers and Bulgaria is too dangerous to travel around alone!

After a 10 minute walk I find a hostel, its 5pm and a good14 hours since I left Turkey, its was a long and bizarre day.

Next time I will check the bus schedule

Gallipoli and the Anzac’s

Friday, August 22nd, 2008

My bus ride over to the base town for visiting the Gallipoli peninsula was around 5 hour long. I chatted to a lovely Turkish girl on the way who is studying English and off to visit her friends for the weekend. It was nice to be able to talk to a female for a change and interesting talking about Turkey and the future and the past. The country has had a crazy history and interesting now with becoming more modern and things. So it was a nice journey. Our bus drove onto a boat for the last bit and we crossed the Dardanelles to Cannakale.

I had booked into a hostel which unsurprisingly had a lot of Aussies there to visit Gallipoli, the town is also the base to see the historic site of Troy, however I gave that the chop as I have enough ruins to get me by. I went for a bit of a walk around the town before it got dark, a nice place, not really any tourists which was great and no one harrasing you to eat or buy stuff. I grabbed a pide (turkish pizza) for tea and spent the evening watching the Aussie movie Gallipoli with Mel Gibson at the hostel. I’ve never seen it before and while apparently its very bias it was a good way to get a bit more of an overview of the battles.

I booked in for a day tour of the peninsula with the hostel, as the area is too big to explore on foot and I thought it would be good to have someone explain. Obviously for Kiwis and Aussies, Gallipoli is a really important part of their history but also important for British and Turkish. So there was a bit of a mix on the tour but mostly Aussies. We had lunch included at a restaurant made for your groups then jumped on a our big air-con tour bus with our guide on the microphone…despite being everything I hated about traveling it turned out to be really good and our guide was able to explain lots of things. As we were fighting the Turkish I did wonder how a Turkish guide could be sympathetic towards Anzac troupes when they killed thousands of their own soldiers but he was really goof at explaining how lots of people died on both sides and the whole thing was a tragedy for everyone and really pointless in the end and its not really about who won or lost but that it was a terrible thing for all involved. One memorial had a quote about those allied troops who died now rest in a friendly country and they are important to Turkey and things. We visited the cemeteries of the soldiers as well as Anzac cove where the solider landed. A tiny strip of beach with an almost vertical cliff face, which was of course, the wrong beach to land at.

We saw the Aussie memorial as well as the kiwi one which was at Chunuk Bair, the highest point of the peninsula which was the aim to capture and the kiwi soldiers were the only ones who made it there. All the old trenches are still there and at some points they are only about 8 meters between the two sides. So during trench warfare basically you would just die, and thousands from both sides just went and were killed instantly.

During points of no fighting the Turkish and Anzac soldiers shared food and tobacco and had concerts. Its a strange way of thinking about that one day then killing each other the next. I am not normally very interested in war and things but this was very interesting and educational, it made me really proud to be a kiwi but also how terrible war is and how depressingly sad that we never learned from those 2 major wars. Altogether from both sides if you add up people killed on site and also after from injuries the total casualties was 500,000 over the 8month campaign. Terribly sad.

By the time we got back to the hotel it had been 6 hours so I had a rest and tried to get some sleep as my bus the following day left at 3am, towards Bulgaria which was I was hoping to get to in one day

cruises and goodbyes

Wednesday, August 20th, 2008
It had quickly come to the end of my time with mum, we had covered a lot of ground in 4 weeks and while moved quickly, we didnt see everything but we saw enough and some really cool things. Mum ... [Continue reading this entry]

Istanbul

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008
Our hostel in Istanbul wasn't exactly the nicest place to be spending 4 nights so we chopped it after one night and up graded to a nice place with our own room and bathroom. The hotel and backpackers area in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kaş-our savıng grace

Saturday, August 16th, 2008
Getting to the town of Kaş was a bıt dıffıcult because all the buses were full, we had to change a couple of tımes and I was feel very average at this stage. Luckıly I was wıth mum  otherwise I ... [Continue reading this entry]

The european beach holıday

Friday, August 15th, 2008
I'm not one to make generalısatıons...well actully I am. But there ıs a stark contrast between the kıwı ıdeal of a beach holıday and the classıcal European one. Europeans seem to prefer the nıce, fancy organısed beach. Sun looungers set ... [Continue reading this entry]

cave dwellıngs

Monday, August 11th, 2008
Turkey ıs ımmedıately very dıfferent from the rest of the ME. Fırst of all ıts expensıve, damn expensıve after Syrıa. Really ıts about the same cost as home and cheaper ıf you were comıng from € countrıes. However for us ... [Continue reading this entry]

Border smugglıng

Saturday, August 9th, 2008
Our mega long day to Turkey began at 5am. Ever trustıng the lonely planet which said that buses across the border left between 5-8am we arrıved at the bus statıon at about 5.30am to fınd that actually all the buses ... [Continue reading this entry]