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compleating the trans-siberian

Friday, November 14th, 2008

So came the end of our Mongolia trip. 2 weeks, mostly spent out in the country side…which really is most of the country. Pretty much UB is the only city in the country with the rest being mostly the odd Ger dotted around and a few towns. The food wasn’t as bad as I thought as I was able to eat happily every day by picking out the bits of floating mutton. However I was keen for a bit of spice and flavour which I was expecting from China.

Once we arrived back to our guest house I was just way too tired to cope with doing anything. After showering and washing some clothes (so dirty….) I watched BBC and we ordered pizza to be delivered. So lazy! Turns out I should have gone to change money as I am now stuck with about $15 of useless tugregs (Mongolian currency) which I can’t change in China. I am really keen to come back to Mongolia to see more of the country and try to do something where you spend a bit more time with local people as most places we stayed we didn’t have that much contact with the families. Although from speaking to a few people who did family stays it sounds a bit intense, as in slaughtering the animals and preparing it…might have to train myself to like mutton before then.

I think in the summer it would be good to come back and take a tent and go camping and hitchhiking around as there is not really anything as private land so camping is the best way to do it. Paulin the french guy we had meet in Russia was pretty much doing this, although he is much more hardcore than I could ever be. Him and another guy were trekking and hitchhiking through the snow and finding Ger’s along the way which would take them in. Randomly we came across them in one of these towns along the way were they were waiting for a lift. Very funny to see someone you actually know in the middle of Mongolia!

Our train for China was leaving the morning after we arrived at 8am. So we just got ourselves together and went to bed, thankfully picking up our passports compleate with Chinese visa’s. The train in the morning was another forcibly expensive train in 2nd class. A big train this time, lots of foreigners but all spread out and we were the only foreigners in our carriage. The train ride took us back south through the Gobi then a long drawn out border crossing where they had to change all the wheels (or whatever trains have) as Russian/Mongolian trains have a different gauge than China so every carriage has to be lifted up and changed. It was around 5 hours in the middle of the night at the border before heading off into China, we arrived in Beijing at 2pm the following day and in the morning had great views of the Great Wall as we followed it along for a bit then through some amazing mountains. Beijing started far before we arrived into the station and high rise apartment buildings and highways lined the tracks. Finally pulling into the station we stepped out into the amazingly warmer Beijing air and went head first into the mass of people that is China.

mega trip part 2

Thursday, November 13th, 2008

(for a more complete and probably better written account of our trip check out Rdoc’s blog here)

We survived our 13 hour drive through the mountains to arrive in a small town. Petty exhausted from the drive we didn’t leave till late the next day. The drivers spent most of the morning practically rebuilding the vans, when we asked what was wrong our driver said “too much Gobi!”

We wandered down to a local shop to stock up on chocolate and bread for the next few days. It was freezing cold, and very windy so we spent a long time in the shop trying to avoid going outside. he town was another non-descript, dirt road, big fences type place. Soon we were back in the vans and driving to our next destination. There was still lots of snow on the ground and we drove past (and through) lots of frozen rivers.

That night was spent in an amazing location set in the hills all covered in fresh pure white snow. The snow in Mongolia is the whitest most powdery snow I have ever seen. We were close to a waterfall which was totally frozen in motion, very cool. We also loaded up on horses and went for a bit of a token ride around which was kind of cool. Generally I am not a big fan of horses but Mongolian horses are different in that they are strangely small so not so far to the ground if you fall. We rode our horses around a bit, even getting them running for a bit. But I was glad to get off after an hour as my butt and toes were getting numb. Eventually we were on the road again stopping via a monastery in the hills.

During Stalin’s rule most Buddhist monasteries in Mongolia were destroyed but recent years has seen lots of them restored. This monastery is really in the middle of nowhere, then a hour walk up a hill to where i is built among snow covered hills with amazing views. A young shy monk lead us up to the buildings and let us in the rooms where they pray. We climbed right up some vertical cliff face to a big rock pile covered in blue ribbons then back down where there are some tiny caves a guy lived in for 11 years. The whole place was beautiful, mostly because of its remote location. Back down the hill it was a long drive to the next town of Karakhrum, the old Mongolian capital.

Now its just a small dusty town, but it does have a big monastery which we checked out in the morning. Lots more monks around, and some nice buildings. The other van load left us at the point to head back to UB while we pushed on through for another 4 days. It was day 9 by this stage, that is 9 days with no shower, no running water, toilets that are really just holes in the ground. I can’t say I wasn’t a little jealous when the other group headed back to civilization. But of course the next 4 days were great.

(our whole group on some random fake yak’s)

We headed north towards the white lake stopping on route at our drivers family house. We picked up some bottles of arag to try, which is fermented mares milk. People sell it all along the road for a couple of dollars a bottle. It was pretty disgusting, although not quite as bad as the fermented camels milk we tried on the first day. We also picked up some yak cream which kind of had the consistency of cream cheese and tasted surprisingly good. Over the next few days we came up with multitudes of uses for it. Yak cream and jam on biscuits. Cream on chocolate, in coffee, on bread….it was good and a bit addictive.

We had 2 nights at the White lake which was a beautiful big lake, partially frozen over. We were supposed to go horse riding again on our full day there, but the horses never turned up…apparently they didn’t know where they were. But we walked over to a volcano crater instead which was pretty cool. From the top you could see where the lava had spilled out and spread over the country side.

(Our van load with our awesome driver)

From the white lake it was a 2 day drive back to UB. 2 very long days. Our last night we stopped at a place known as small Gobi because of its sand dunes and gobi like scenery. The man whose Ger we were staying in was really funny and kept coming to check on us. In the morning when we asked to take a photo he disappeared inside to put on his ‘photo jacket’. We had picked up Gana (our drivers) wife who was coming back to UB. On our last day we all stopped at some Mongolian restaurant on the side of the road where the boys all ordered big plates of fatty mutton…I stuck to a salad.

Finally we arrived back into UB, back on paved roads, back in traffic. UB was even uglier that I remembered after 13 days of amazing scenery. It took us an hour to navigate the traffic back to the hostel.

A shower has never been so good

13 day mega trip part 1

Tuesday, November 11th, 2008
Space is likely to be the thing I most remember about our 13 day Gobi trip. Lots of flat, open space. While beautiful not altogether helpful if your a female trying to find a toilet spot. Through our guest house we ... [Continue reading this entry]

Into Mongolia

Friday, November 7th, 2008
Leaving Russia was a 2 night train ride into the heart of Mongolia, our next destination. As I mentioned before the train was really just one carriage that was attached to different trains across the two countries and well over ... [Continue reading this entry]