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Where’s my passport?

Saturday, February 10th, 2007

So we arrived back in Vientiane with no money, since the only ATM in the country was here we were planning to head straight there. We just had enough money to get a tuk-tuk to a cheap nasty hotel. We dumped our bags and were about to go get some money when I suddenly realized I didn’t have my passport. It was in my daypack. Still on the bus.
Not only my passport but my air-tickets, laptop and every other important thing I have. I had put my bag up on the shelf above the seats and somehow just completely forgotten about it, you would think that by now I would be a bit smarter but obviously not. So I completely panicked, dropped everything and ran out of the room with Tash running after me. I must have looked hysterical as the guy at reception changed some money for us (the little we had about $4 worth) and we got a tuk-tuk driver to take us back to the bus station for half the normal price. The whole journey there I was making back up plans in the likely event that everything was stolen. We arrived and I ran to the office trying to act out to the non English speaker how I’d left my bag on the bus. Not too much help but we found the bus being cleaned in the car park and there was my bag, just where I’d left it. The cleaner who was cleaning it when we arrived hadn’t even noticed. So Laos’ ‘not caring’ attitude had worked out very well for us! I’m pretty sure that in any other country in Asia my bag would have been stolen even while I was on the bus. We got the tuk-tuk driver to take us to the ATM which of course wasn’t working, a bit paranoid that we were truly screwed with no money we found out it actually was working so we paid the rest of the money to the driver and took a bit of time to relax after a very stressful hour! We only had one night so we just had a walk around and had dinner down by the river and headed to bed.

Up early in the morning for a quick journey over the Thai-Laos friendship bridge into Nom Kai, a relaxed border town on the Thai side. We brought overnight train tickets for that evening and spent the day waiting. Walked to a giant Buddha statue and then had lunch at a very relaxed guesthouse. It was one of those super hippy places, with advertisements for yoga and meditation courses and the American guy on the desk was frustratingly calm. But good food.

For our last couple of hours we went out to a statue park which had a lot of very big Buddhist and hindu statues. The coolest being this big circle of life which we had picked up a guide for at our hippy lunch place. First you climb through the jaws of life, as sperm (we took photos swimming through the entrance) and go round looking at different statues representing different stages of life with a big thing in the middle with something to do with reincarnation. Really interesting especially with our guide. We also feed some giant ugly fish then headed back to the train station for an 11 hour train ride down to Bangkok. Pretty nice train, and despite the fact that they kept the intense fluorescent lights on all night it was a good train ride and actually got some sleep.

Monk Stalking

Tuesday, February 6th, 2007

Luang Prabang would have to be one of my favourite spots in Asia, its beautiful and clean, streets are actually paved, its Laos so everyone is friendly. Unfortunately its everyone elses favourite place and we had a tough time finding a room under $15. Normally we don’t pay more than $6 so we weren’t too happy with paying double but after asking over 10 places we settled with a $10 average room with rats running around in the roof. Luckily we found a much nicer $6 place in the morning for our last 2 nights.

In the evening there is an amazing night market so we checked out that and made shopping lists, so much to buy! We had a pretty low key day our first full morning there, cheap baguettes for breakfast which is always good. Walked up a hill to have a look at some important temple thing. It’s a really small town so didn’t take long to walk around, really beautiful buildings and lots of temples. The town is a full of monks so every so often there are flashes of orange robes followed by tourists with cameras, myself included. I don’t know what is about monks but they look so cool wandering around in groups, unfortunately its actually really offensive to hover around taking photos, and while some people seem to think its fine I feel too bad, so I spent most of the time trying to secretly stalk them. Tash thought I was crazy but did end up getting a few good photos. Early in the morning is the alms ceremony where the monks all walk down the street collecting food offerings from people. So I made us get up at 6am 2 mornings to sit in the coffee shop across the street and secretly take photos of the monks. Its really cool to watch but some tourists get a bit carried away despite the signs everywhere with ‘rules’. But anyway we did get to see lots of monks.

We did a lot of shopping at the night market (all very cheap) and ate at some excellent street buffets, with various meat on sticks. We spent our other full day on a tour, first out to see some caves with lots of statues of Buddha in them. It was OK, it just took over an hour on a boat to get there which wasn’t so fun, and we had to do cultural village visits on the way. We tried to find a tour company that didn’t do village visits as they are inevitably awkward but no, all of them proudly advertise it.

After our cultural morning it was straight into a mini van and out to these amazing waterfalls. Set in beautiful forests , first you walk past bears and a tiger in cages…weird. The falls are amazing, you can swim in them but unfortunately I had forgotten my togs. Still was really amazing to see, all these little waterfalls coming from a big one into these aqua pools, the colour of waterfall was really incredible, looked like a swimming pool. In true Laos safety you could basically stand at the very edge of a massive drop. I somehow talked Tash into climbing up a massive hill to the very top of the waterfall. Not the best track and came down mostly on our butts just in time for our mini bus ride back to town, via a village of course.

(food on sticks, yum)

After 3 nights we were off again. We were planning to go across to Chang Mai in Thailand. Apparently there was a bus but for some reason it wasn’t happening at the moment so there were boats, either a 2 day slow boat or a 10 hour fast boat. Both cost heaps, especially the fast one but we didn’t really have time for a 2 day boat ride. So we’d asked a few places the day before about the speed boat and went back to book it but now…no speedboat. Why not? Pollution, apparently….something didn’t seem so right. Another place we asked at had one of those guys who just couldn’t lie and when we asked him, he tried to avoid the topic and eventually told us there had been a crash! They hadn’t died but just “got very wet, very very wet”
So no speedboat, probably a good thing!

So we were back on the bus back down to Vietianne, over the worst road ever again. I’d heard stories about this stretch of the road being one of the most dangerous because of bandits and up until a couple of years ago they recommended you didn’t drive on it. But I didn’t think it was that bad until we had an armed guard on the bus, just sitting across from us…a little disturbing but we made it back to the capital safe.

Tubing with Friends

Saturday, February 3rd, 2007
After lugging our bags around the small town we settled in at a nice guest house over looking the river. Had a very long lunch break in the sun and walked down to check out some of the caves Van ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vientiane: Country town Capital.

Saturday, February 3rd, 2007
Laos is not a huge country, about 6 million people, but still you think the capital would be more than a few roads and some big banks. It does kind of seem like a small country town and the capital ... [Continue reading this entry]