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A Guatemalan Thanksgiving

Friday, November 24th, 2006



San Marcos on Thankgiving Day

Originally uploaded by skavanagh.

The turkey was locked in the bathroom. It had pooped everywhere. But we´re getting ahead of ourselves… let´s begin from the beginning.

Pete and Pete, our two new friends from Minnesota, bought a live turkey at the market for 175Q (about $25). It spent a happy day living in their bathroom, nestled under the sink.

Pete and Pete had killed chickens, pheasants and even a dove before and explained to us that they had learned this skill from their fathers who had learned it from their fathers, who had learned it from their fathers. They are very Minnesotan.

We arrived at their (and Zil´s) house just in time to say our last goodbye to the bird, whom they had dubbed San Marcos. The three of us (Megan, Zil, and Sarah) huddled outside the bathroom with our cameras as Pete and Pete soothed San Marcos by stroking its feathers before tying its legs together. Then they put the little poppet in a bag and brought it outside. As we all hovered over the Petes and San Marcos with our cameras, the boys wrung our feathered friend´s neck. It was like wringing out a wet towel. Then, since it hadn´t quite bit it, they cut off its oxygen supply for several minutes. This all resulted in San Marcos becoming quite dead.

Or so it seemed.

Pete #1 started to string the bird up by its legs in order to aid the loosening of the feathers… or some such thing. As he stood holding the bird, which had been really quite dead for about 5 minutes, the bird let out a final frenzy of wing-flapping. It´s poor snapped neck hadn´t quite killed off the brain´s desire to flee from danger. It was like in those horror movies when someone has been dead for several moments when suddenly their grayish hand grabs the pretty girl and everybody in the audience screams. In this case, Zil screamed and ran away. Sarah didn´t scream, but did run away. And Megan stared intently.

The next morning, Thanksgiving day, we ran into Zil on our way to school. She showed us a picture of a freshly plucked San Marcos and informed us that Pete and Pete had been working on derobing our friend all morning. They had done a magnificent job.

We then spent the afternoon listening to an ex-guerrilla talk about the Guatemalan civil war, shopping in the outdoor market for camotes (yams), and then whipping up some scrumptious candied camote surprise to bring to the evening´s festivities.

All in all it was a wonderful Thanksgiving. We ate with a bunch of other language students from different schools who all had a connection to someone who lived with Pete, Pete, and Zil in “Yoga House.” We ate stuffing, mashed potatoes, pies, green bean casserole topped with funyons, gravy, and, of course, San Marcos, who was particularly tasty.

So, here´s a final “thank you” for good food, good pheasant like creatures, and all the very good people that we´ve met on our travels.

-Megan and Sarah

When It Rains, It Pours

Sunday, November 19th, 2006

This is the story of Yesterday, when we hiked up a volcano and a lot of things went wrong:

On Friday night, Irma, our incredible host mother who has never let us down, told us to leave her a note about when we were leaving the next morning and when we would need breakfast. We did. But when we woke up (at six am), there was no breakfast. Oh sad.

No worries, on our way to the volcano, we stopped at a Texaco and spent way too much money (by Guatemalan standards) on donuts for breakfast and cold, pre-made sandwiches for lunch… oh, and coffee that we sipped through a straw. Tres chic.

On the way to our volcano we passed the scene of a car accident and saw a dead woman lying in the street. She was not covered up although there were police everywhere. I don’t think I have ever seen anything quite as disturbing. I still can’t really stop thinking about it.

Then, after all of this, we had to walk up… a mountain… Why did we think this would be an enjoyable activity? What were we thinking when we decided that we wanted to spend our Saturday climbing a steep hill for three hours?

But at the top we were able to dig in to our Texaco feast. I’m not quite sure why we hadn’t anticipated the fact that lunch from Texaco might be especially unappetizing. However, it came as quite a shock when my chicken sandwich, made of those breaded chicken patties that make my mouth water when in the States, had ground up chicken bones in it. I did not take more than three bites. Thank God… because on the way back down the mountain, it became quite clear that the chicken wanted out. And it wanted out NOW.

“Now” happened to occur right when we were approaching a small village and I enlisted Megan to help me find a bathroom. Our first stop was three nine year old boys. I leared something important from these boys: no matter where you are in the world, when you talk to nine year old boys about something that relates to a bathroom, they will find your conversation very funny. And often I agree with them. But on this particular occasion, I was not seeing the humor. Luckily, our guide, Luisl had been on the banyo hunt as well, and he was much more successful. A bathroom was found. Actually, it wasn’t quite a bathroom that was found, it was a wooden hut that had a pot sitting on the floor and lined paper covered with other people’s feces. But hey, when you gotta go… Luckily our friends from Australia had those little “wet one’s” napkins with them. They’re doctors. I like having doctors around.

So we hopped into the van that was taking us home and drove for, I kid you not, about two seconds before getting a flat tire. When it rains it pours.

However, all was redeemed when we ended our day by going to a Buena Vista de Corazon concert where Megan and I danced the night away. The group is made of a the living members of the Buena Vista Social Club and some other incredibly talented young Cuban musicians. I guess there’s always some kind of rainbow after a storm.

Needless to say, we went to sleep exhausted.

-Sarah (Megan helped by speaking to nine year old boys about bathrooms, salsa dancing, and finding all my spelling mistakes)

OH… we’ve got more pictures up. Go here to see them!

A Day in the Life

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006
So sorry for the delay in posting. Time flies when you´re stumbling through Spanish phrases at the rate of a small turtle, or, I should say, a tortuga pequeña. Here´s a run-down of the day-to-day here in Xela: ... [Continue reading this entry]

Madonna´s Hamburgers

Tuesday, November 7th, 2006
So I suppose it´s my turn to discuss Spanish school and the frustrations of learning a new language. For example, my teacher today asked me if I ate McDonalds´ hamburgers. I thought he asked me if I ate ... [Continue reading this entry]

Yo estoy estudiando español.

Monday, November 6th, 2006
This morning I learned my alphabet. Megan learned about the history of Guatemala. I learned the names of the days of the week. Megan learned about traditional Guatemalan healing practices. I learned how to say ¨food.¨ This is going to be a long month. Other than ... [Continue reading this entry]

Ten Things That Have Happened To Us In The Last Week

Friday, November 3rd, 2006
1. All three of us, Megan, Sarah and Zil, rode a ferris wheel in Todos Santos. The ticket booth indicated that the ride had, at one point, lived in Chicago (like Zil). We were on the ferris ... [Continue reading this entry]

Our First Off-The-Map Adventure

Tuesday, October 31st, 2006
I don´t even know where to start. Just the past few days have given us so many stories... try we must. Crossing the border from Mexico to Guatemala was a study in complexity. We hired a van ... [Continue reading this entry]

Politics, Religion, and Coca Cola in Chiapas

Friday, October 27th, 2006
Do a google search of San Juan Chamula, the small Mayan town that we visited today, and everything you´ve ever learned or experienced about the stereotyping and demonizing of native people of the Americas will be on display. But ... [Continue reading this entry]

In Which Sarah and Megan Watch Footage of a Placenta Being Burried

Thursday, October 26th, 2006
Megan Discusses the Morning We just made it back to our hostel, hustling, as a gigantic rainstorm rolled in from the hills. Sarah has a sixth sense about these things -- I wanted to press on. Today was filled ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lost Days

Wednesday, October 25th, 2006
San Cristóbal de las Casas is an impossibly beautiful colonial town tucked away in the mountains of Chiapas. Unfortunately, we didn´t get to see any of it today. We did, however, have a rocking good time last night. Yesterday started innocently ... [Continue reading this entry]