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The Tough-isimo-ocity of our Fearless Heroines

Wednesday, November 29th, 2006

There is a natural hot spring outside of Xela called Fuentes Georginas. We were there over the weekend. We stayed the night with our friends Zil, Cori, and Trika in the little bungalows that dot the perimiter of the springs and at night we were the only people there. It doesn´t need any help being absolutely gorgeous… but, being human, we tried anyway. We turned off the lights, lit candles, and floated to our hearts content under a starry sky. It don´t get much better than that.

There´s another natural hot spring outside of Xela called Aguas Amargas (we are in volcano country, after all). We went there today. Here, the pool is lukewarm, but there is the promise of calientísimo (super freaking hot) baths just up the hill. Since we´re tough-isimo (super freaking tough), we decided to take “the plunge.” Well, it turned out our plunge was more of a “toe-dip.” They weren´t lying about the -isimo of the caliente. When our big toes took their first timid venture into these baths, we were surrounded by the older Mayan folks who run the place. They were very amused at our feeble attempt and suggested that we go get a bucket of cold water. Three buckets later, we were bathing away. Later, a woman by the lukewarm pool applauded our efforts, only half-sarcastically. Who´s tough(isimo) now? Dulce.

-Las Dos

A Guatemalan Thanksgiving

Friday, November 24th, 2006



San Marcos on Thankgiving Day

Originally uploaded by skavanagh.

The turkey was locked in the bathroom. It had pooped everywhere. But we´re getting ahead of ourselves… let´s begin from the beginning.

Pete and Pete, our two new friends from Minnesota, bought a live turkey at the market for 175Q (about $25). It spent a happy day living in their bathroom, nestled under the sink.

Pete and Pete had killed chickens, pheasants and even a dove before and explained to us that they had learned this skill from their fathers who had learned it from their fathers, who had learned it from their fathers. They are very Minnesotan.

We arrived at their (and Zil´s) house just in time to say our last goodbye to the bird, whom they had dubbed San Marcos. The three of us (Megan, Zil, and Sarah) huddled outside the bathroom with our cameras as Pete and Pete soothed San Marcos by stroking its feathers before tying its legs together. Then they put the little poppet in a bag and brought it outside. As we all hovered over the Petes and San Marcos with our cameras, the boys wrung our feathered friend´s neck. It was like wringing out a wet towel. Then, since it hadn´t quite bit it, they cut off its oxygen supply for several minutes. This all resulted in San Marcos becoming quite dead.

Or so it seemed.

Pete #1 started to string the bird up by its legs in order to aid the loosening of the feathers… or some such thing. As he stood holding the bird, which had been really quite dead for about 5 minutes, the bird let out a final frenzy of wing-flapping. It´s poor snapped neck hadn´t quite killed off the brain´s desire to flee from danger. It was like in those horror movies when someone has been dead for several moments when suddenly their grayish hand grabs the pretty girl and everybody in the audience screams. In this case, Zil screamed and ran away. Sarah didn´t scream, but did run away. And Megan stared intently.

The next morning, Thanksgiving day, we ran into Zil on our way to school. She showed us a picture of a freshly plucked San Marcos and informed us that Pete and Pete had been working on derobing our friend all morning. They had done a magnificent job.

We then spent the afternoon listening to an ex-guerrilla talk about the Guatemalan civil war, shopping in the outdoor market for camotes (yams), and then whipping up some scrumptious candied camote surprise to bring to the evening´s festivities.

All in all it was a wonderful Thanksgiving. We ate with a bunch of other language students from different schools who all had a connection to someone who lived with Pete, Pete, and Zil in “Yoga House.” We ate stuffing, mashed potatoes, pies, green bean casserole topped with funyons, gravy, and, of course, San Marcos, who was particularly tasty.

So, here´s a final “thank you” for good food, good pheasant like creatures, and all the very good people that we´ve met on our travels.

-Megan and Sarah

When It Rains, It Pours

Sunday, November 19th, 2006
This is the story of Yesterday, when we hiked up a volcano and a lot of things went wrong: On Friday night, Irma, our incredible host mother who has never let us down, told us to leave her a note about ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Day in the Life

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006
So sorry for the delay in posting. Time flies when you´re stumbling through Spanish phrases at the rate of a small turtle, or, I should say, a tortuga pequeña. Here´s a run-down of the day-to-day here in Xela: ... [Continue reading this entry]

Madonna´s Hamburgers

Tuesday, November 7th, 2006
So I suppose it´s my turn to discuss Spanish school and the frustrations of learning a new language. For example, my teacher today asked me if I ate McDonalds´ hamburgers. I thought he asked me if I ate ... [Continue reading this entry]

Yo estoy estudiando español.

Monday, November 6th, 2006
This morning I learned my alphabet. Megan learned about the history of Guatemala. I learned the names of the days of the week. Megan learned about traditional Guatemalan healing practices. I learned how to say ¨food.¨ This is going to be a long month. Other than ... [Continue reading this entry]

Ten Things That Have Happened To Us In The Last Week

Friday, November 3rd, 2006
1. All three of us, Megan, Sarah and Zil, rode a ferris wheel in Todos Santos. The ticket booth indicated that the ride had, at one point, lived in Chicago (like Zil). We were on the ferris ... [Continue reading this entry]