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Toma Tu Teta

Thursday, December 28th, 2006

If anyone besides my father has been following our route on a map, they will be surprised to learn that we´re now in León, Nicaragua. It seems like only two days ago that we were two countries away in Guatemala. It seems this way because it´s true. We arrived in León last night after two full days of bus, boat, truck, and colectivo-ing our way through Honduras — which we skipped altogether. And here we are.

Though we had planned to summarize our experience in Guatemala into a neat top ten list of some sort, we realize that our time there was unsummarizable. Well, that and the fact that we´ve already written about all our most interesting Guatemalan experiences. (Except for this: Ricardo Arjona, Guatemala´s favorite son, has a new hit single entitled “Ayúdame Freud” (“Help Me Freud”) — it is a song about his mother.)

Time to move on.

Today we went to the Museum of Legends and Traditions in León. Museums are a great way to re-introduce yourself to travel, since they offer a nice, encapsulated slice of knowledge about a new place and almost immediately make you feel more connected.

Nothing could have made us feel more connected to León than the fable of the “Toma Tu Teta” woman. Loosely translated, this means, “Take Your Tit.” Once upon a time in León there lived a woman who had the large arms of a man and gigantic breasts. (This was illustrated in the museum by a life-sized woman wearing a black dress and exposing her right breast. She and her giant breast were made of paper mache.) Being formed in this way made her unmarriagable, a fact that drove her to insanity. Her insanity manifested itself in nocturnal ramblings through the streets of León in search of nice-looking men. Making use of her surprising stature (the very stature that made her life so difficult), she would catch these men, throw them to the ground, and shout “¡Toma tu teta!” while forcing her victim to suckle her massive boobage. When she was “satisfied” she would let the man up and go in search of new prey.

How weird is that?

Well, now we know. Thank you León.

-Both of Us. Equally.

On the Road Again

Sunday, December 24th, 2006

We have just finished a very fast-paced week of travel which we will now attempt to recap. At the moment we-re in Livingston, a community reachable only by boat… but how we got here is the real story.

SEMUC CHAMPEY

We left Antigua on Tuesday morning at 4am. This meant that we had to wake up at 3:30am. We did this willingly, I know not why. Thus began the long trip to Semuc Champey: six hours by minibus to Coban, two hours to Lanquin (an hour of which is on a long bumpy dirt road), and then half an hour in the back of a pickup truck to the one hotel that sits on the banks of the Cohabon River. Semuc Champey is a Guatemalan national park, one of the few natural rock bridges in the world (I assume, since I´ve never heard of another). I want to attempt to explain exactly what it is, but since I read a lot about it beforehand and completely didn´t understand any of it, I assume that my attempt will be feeble. But here it goes: A raging whitewater river encounters the rock bridge and goes underneath it into a cave. However, on top of the bridge some water remains and creates unbelievably beautiful turquoise pools perfect for swimming. Or, as it turns out, perfect for slipping and falling and almost breaking your arm, in the case of Zil. Ow.

As beautiful as the pools were, they did not hold a candle to the spelunking that one can undertake in the nearby caves. Unfortunately, I was the only participant of our small crew, as Zil´s arm was still in recovery from her slip and fall, and Megan´s back was angry with her after our days long journey. Yes, I spelunked. I spelunked with three Israelis just out of the army, a Spaniard who was afraid of heights, a young man from Brighton, and our guide, Luis. We were given candles and commenced swimming through water filled caves with one arm while holding the other above our heads to light our way. We swam, walked, climbed, and shimmied two kilometers into the cave before heading back out again. I only got lost once. In a little room with water up to my chin and seemingly no way out. But fear not, there was a way out, and I found it. Thank god.

TIKAL

The next morning we let ourselves sleep late… until 4:30am, and left for Tikal: two and a half hours to Coban, four hours to Flores, and fourty five minutes to El Remate, a little lakeside town just outside of the Tikal national park. There we slept, sleeping even a little later, until 5am. We arrived in the main plaza of the ancient Mayan ruins slightly after the sunrise, before the tourists flooded in. We sat on the old stone steps and watched the mist drift over the two thousand year old buildings accompanied in our meditation only by peacocks rooting around for breakfast. Pretty rad.

Later we hired a guide (which was TOTALLY worth the ten American dollars that it cost us) named Miguel. He was an ornthologist by trade and can recognize over five hundred bird species. We put his training to use and saw several toucans, woodpeckers, countless other birds that I can´t remember, spider monkeys, howler monkeys, and coates (funny anteater type furry rooting creatures). This is all in addition to the human engineering marvel that is Tikal: 65 meter high pyramids peak out over the immense expanse of jungle, which is always threatening to envelop the city. Truly breathtaking and awe-inspiring.

Now we are in Livingston, planning to rest and relax over the Christmas holiday. It´s not hard to do when it´s about 80 degrees in the shade.

Happy Holidays to all.

-Sarah (and Megan who wrote the last three paragraphs.)

Spiders and Scorpions

Sunday, December 17th, 2006
Lago Atitlan is beautiful. Sarah´s pictures do not do it justice. The volcanoes are imposing towers of green overlooking the clearest water I have had the privilege to swim in. We spent a wonderful weekend eating at ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Very Full Weekend

Tuesday, December 12th, 2006

Xela Flags
Originally uploaded by skavanagh.


[Continue reading this entry]

CUMPLEAÑOS ADIVINANZA

Friday, December 8th, 2006
I am in the middle of hunting for my birthday present. Megan has constructed a scavenger hunt through the city of Xela and I just figured out that I had to visit the blog in order to get one ... [Continue reading this entry]

Weekly Re-Cap

Tuesday, December 5th, 2006
1. When stuck in traffic in an old American school bus covered in slogans like "Jesus is my co-pilot" in Spanish, it is hilarious to change the words to American pop songs so that you end up with lyrics ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Tough-isimo-ocity of our Fearless Heroines

Wednesday, November 29th, 2006
There is a natural hot spring outside of Xela called Fuentes Georginas. We were there over the weekend. We stayed the night with our friends Zil, Cori, and Trika in the little bungalows that dot the perimiter of ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Guatemalan Thanksgiving

Friday, November 24th, 2006

San Marcos on Thankgiving Day
Originally uploaded by [Continue reading this entry]

When It Rains, It Pours

Sunday, November 19th, 2006
This is the story of Yesterday, when we hiked up a volcano and a lot of things went wrong: On Friday night, Irma, our incredible host mother who has never let us down, told us to leave her a note about ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Day in the Life

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006
So sorry for the delay in posting. Time flies when you´re stumbling through Spanish phrases at the rate of a small turtle, or, I should say, a tortuga pequeña. Here´s a run-down of the day-to-day here in Xela: ... [Continue reading this entry]