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The Pottages

Tuesday, January 30th, 2007

We’re in Riobamba, Ecuador anxiously awaiting our train ride down “the devil’s nose.” A trip during which we get to ride on top of the train. Whooo hoooo!

While waiting, we did something we do almost everyday. We ate lunch. It was a nice restaurant with white tablecloths and dessert spoons and waiters wearing white vests (although our lunches, which included bread, soup, entree, dessert, and juice cost us $1.70 each). It was also one of the funniest lunches either of us have had in a long time. Why? Because of the menu. Someone had translated it into English so that under each Spanish food item lay an English translation. Here are some of the best dishes they offered (word for word):

– Crema de Hongos (It Cremates of Mushrooms)

– Crema de Espàrragos (It Cremates of Asparaguses)

– Pechuguita a la Plancha (Breast to the Iron)

– Costillas a la BBQ (Ribs to the BBQ)

– Las Menestras (The Pottages)

– Costillas de Res a la Parnilla con Guarnicones (Head Ribs to the Grill with Gears)

– Cerdo en Salsa de Vino y Ciruelas Pasa (Pig in Sauce of Wine and Plum Happens)

– El Chuletero: Duo de Chuleta de Cerdo y Res (Duet of Pig Chops and Head)

– Lengua con Salsa Parreillera (Fillets of Language with Sauce of Garlic, Oregano, and Other Spices)

At first we thought, uh oh, someone made a translation mistake, but then we realized that language really had been filleted… and spat up on the menu.

-Las Dos

Lunch with Manuelo

Monday, January 29th, 2007

Today we hiked up a mountain. It was a much nicer experience than the rest of the hiking that we’ve done on this trip… in Ecuador they seem to have discovered the glories of the switchback. Hooray! We made it up to the mirador that looks out over the city (upon which stood the obligatory cross) and then decided to continue up the mountain to a small town that supposedly lay at the top. Along the way we were able to catch great views of an active volcano covered in ash (but we stupidly had taken our memory card out of our camera before the hike and so had no way to document the view. oh sad).

Reaching the teensy town of Runtun, we sat on the side of the road to eat our lunch of crackers, avocado, and queso fresco (cheese). While packing up what was left of our lunch, a man, who seemed to be somewhere between forty and fifty, approached us, whipped out some fresh herbs from his pocket and invited us back to his house for some tea. We accepted. His name turned out to be Manuelo and his house was only a few feet away. It consisted of a small room with a bed, a stove, a small end table, a bench, and a chair. We took the bench. He picked more fresh herbs (called cedrón, we later learned) and lit the stove. Soon, he had offered us heaping portions of meat, potatoes, rice, bananas, and bread. We tried to decline the food, since we’d just eaten, but he was having none of it. So we ate.

We spoke of his wife and two kids, who lived at the bottom of the mountain in Baños, the family cow business, and the reawakening of the Tungurahua volcano in 1999. The entire town of Baños, over 16 thousand people, was evacuated, He had had to sell all four of his grown cows for cutrate prices. Since most people’s livelihood is tied to the land, even three months away from their homes, animals, and farms meant tremendous economic loss. Manuelo said there was a lot of crying and a lot of merchants taking advantage of people who had to sell their belongings. We were a little frightened to hear that in the past five months there’s been a lot of rumbling and ash spewing. Lovely.

About halfway through our lunch with Manuelo, he walked over to his stove, drawing our attention to the only wall adornment (aside from the obligatory angel calendar) in his house: a mask of, get this, Richard Nixon. He took it off the wall, put it on, gave the double handed peace sign, and said “Yo no soy un ladron!” (I bet you can guess what that means). We had a good laugh. Turns out he owned it for holidays like Carnival and New Years. He agreed with us that both Nixon and Bush were locos. Good man.

After responding to all of his encouragements to “eat, eat!” we were so stuffed we started to doubt if we could make it back down the mountain. So we gave him some money for his troubles and said our goodbyes. Goodbye Manuelo… good luck with your cows.

-Las Dos

Quilotoa Loop

Sunday, January 28th, 2007
We spent the last few days traipsing around Ecuadorian mountains. It was, however, somewhat difficult to traipse since we had to wear so many clothes. Who knew it gets so cold 4000 meters above sea level? Leaving Quito, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Top Ten, Ecuadorian Style

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007
Quito is a marvelous city: it has great public transportation (a trolley!), walkable streets, a beautifully kept-up colonial district that has managed to remain a center of daily Quiteño life instead of a tourist trap, and hot showers. But, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Fun Cab Trips

Saturday, January 20th, 2007
Cab Ride Numero Uno: Our adventures in Panama City started with a little help from an eager Peace Corps volunteer. Apparently, the Peace Corps can place you in a Caribbean archipelago to work on sustainable agriculture even if you have ... [Continue reading this entry]

Two Weeks of Cyber Space and Trivia

Sunday, January 14th, 2007
Our lives for the past two weeks have been centered on a specific Internet cafe. They now know us there and surely, must find it strange that two gringas came all the way to Nicaragua just to spend all ... [Continue reading this entry]

Zip-a-dee-doo-da

Wednesday, January 10th, 2007
Megan’s birthday was spent on the shores of Lago de Apoyo, a crater lake near Granada. We spent the weekend at a lake-side hostel swinging in hammocks, reading, floating in tubes, kayaking, and jumping off docks again and again ... [Continue reading this entry]

Happy New Year

Thursday, January 4th, 2007
If I do say so myself, this has been a wonderful start to the new year. To think that one year ago today I was in San Francisco, about to start a new job at Lieff, not even able ... [Continue reading this entry]