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Zip-a-dee-doo-da

Wednesday, January 10th, 2007

Megan’s birthday was spent on the shores of Lago de Apoyo, a crater lake near Granada. We spent the weekend at a lake-side hostel swinging in hammocks, reading, floating in tubes, kayaking, and jumping off docks again and again and again. We stargazed and marveled at the rising of the moon over the crater. We made delicious fruit salads and smoked fine cigars. All in all, a good way to celebrate 25 years.

Today we flew through the air attached to cables and carabineers and ropes. Needless to say, it was slightly less relaxing, but equally as fun.

After following the bumpiest road I have ever been on in my entire life for about an hour, we reached the coffee finca above which our “canopy tour” (basically a ropes course) was to be held. This road is was definitely intense enough to warrant some blog attention. It was as if someone had haphazardly strewn boulders across a rocky beach and then decided to dig trenches between said boulders and then out of spite or malice decided to call his creation a road. It was that bad. It was so bad that it was kind of like another ride that we got to go on before and after our main event. So really, we got more for our money.

The course itself was fab. It was just the two of us — I think because we were supposed to do it yesterday but they forgot us, so they felt like they owed it to us to squeeze us in today even if no one else was signed up. We donned super stylish equipment and dragged ourselves up into the trees where we proceeded to slide on zip lines from one tree platform to another attached to pulleys for about an hour. About halfway through we began discussing how we weren’t scared at all and that even people who harbor a fear of heights would probably be okay since the guides make sure that you are, at all times, attached to a rope or cable. Directly after bragging to each other about our bravery, our guide non-chalantly said “hey look, there’s a gigantic spider!” Oh how we spoke too soon. He wasn’t joking; it was, without a doubt, a gigantic spider. Luckily, we were able to quickly zip away. The course ended with a 60 foot rappel, which you can choose to do kind of like a free fall. I told them I wanted to free fall it and then proceeded to scream bloody murder when I fell. Who knew that free falling out of a tree would be so scary?

-Sarah (with help from Megan who is now a year older)

P.S. In unrelated, but even more fantastic news Brick by Brick: A Civil Rights Story, the latest film by Bill Kavanagh (fabulous father and documentarian) will be airing on prime time in New York on channel Thirteen/WNET February 2 at 9 PM. Right after NOW with David Brancaccio. Remote controls at the ready, my friends.

Happy New Year

Thursday, January 4th, 2007

If I do say so myself, this has been a wonderful start to the new year. To think that one year ago today I was in San Francisco, about to start a new job at Lieff, not even able to conceptualize a long-term travel adventure. And now, here I am in Granada, Nicaragua — we successfully navigated two bus rides without incident, found a beautiful cheap hostel, and had two conversations (not that halting at all) with Nicaraguans on the way. We’ve come quite a long way since stepping off the plane in Cancun all wide-eyed and completely freaked-out.

We spent a good deal of new years eve on the steps to the largest cathedral in Central America (in Leon), watching the night unfold for the countless young Leonesian families that frolicked together in the central square. Seven-year-old boys rode the lion sculpture to our left, a three-year-old girl to our right was treated to cotton candy, which, of course, enthralled her. “Algodone! Algodone!” (“Cotton! Cotton!”) she cried, her face all pink and sticky.

After dinner, we wandered the streets, crowded with revelers, and stopped into a few different bars to toast to the New Year. We decided to stop by our hostel for a bathroom break around 11:30 and immediately got sucked in to celebrate. A few hostel mates and the family that runs the place were clustered around a stack of cohetes (fireworks) on the sidewalk — and soon, so were we.

As soon as we sat down, the matriarch of the hostel leaned over to Sarah and me and informed us that the old man (“viejcito”) in the room next to ours was dying. “Surely you must know by now…” Now, Nicaraguan Spanish is nearly incomprehensible to me now that I’ve finally become accustomed to slow, clear, Guatemalan Spanish. In Nicaragua, they pronounce neither “s” or “d” sounds, preferring to slightly aspirate an “h” instead; they also frequently swap the “ie” dipthong for the simpler “e”, which doesn’t make understanding verb conjugations much easier. “El vehito ehta murendo…” However, I was pretty sure I knew exactly what words she was using. Unfortunately, in this case, understanding the words did me little good. Why would an old man be dying next door? Why would she tell us, her guests, on New Year’s Eve? I laughed nervously, thinking that the old man that she spoke of must be the year 2006, like those silly political cartoons with the old man year being replaced by the baby. I remained vaguely concerned after I said, “oh, you mean the old year…” and she replied “no, the old man.” I hoped that this was one of those lost-in-translation moments.

We settled down with the cohetes and had a load of fun throwing them in front of cars and scaring ourselves when they exploded. Sarah screamed each time. In between screams, I noticed that she was whispering with the mother, laughing often so that I knew she might be understanding their conversation. After exhausting our supply of fireworks (and watching one particularly short-fused cohete explode a foot away from the youngest daughter), we said our goodnights. Sarah, having successfully navigated a whispered conversation in Spanish, whispered to me that the talk about the old man was a trick on the youngest daughter, who was visibly concerned about the dying old man. The mother and two daughters solemnly approached the door behind which there (supposedly) lay a dying old man. When they reached the door, the youngest daughter paused and crossed herself before entering… only to find an empty room. She was duly laughed at by her (older and wiser) family members. We both felt a little bad for her.

So, that’s how the New Year was rung in — with big bangs, mean pranks, and of course, some really watery Nicaraguan beer. It was perfect.

Happy New Year,
-Megan (with help from Sarah)

Burning Piles of Trash

Saturday, December 30th, 2006

flower
Originally uploaded by skavanagh.
There is a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Toma Tu Teta

Thursday, December 28th, 2006
If anyone besides my father has been following our route on a map, they will be surprised to learn that we´re now in León, Nicaragua. It seems like only two days ago that we were two countries away in ... [Continue reading this entry]

On the Road Again

Sunday, December 24th, 2006
We have just finished a very fast-paced week of travel which we will now attempt to recap. At the moment we-re in Livingston, a community reachable only by boat... but how we got here is the real story. SEMUC CHAMPEY We ... [Continue reading this entry]

Spiders and Scorpions

Sunday, December 17th, 2006
Lago Atitlan is beautiful. Sarah´s pictures do not do it justice. The volcanoes are imposing towers of green overlooking the clearest water I have had the privilege to swim in. We spent a wonderful weekend eating at ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Very Full Weekend

Tuesday, December 12th, 2006

Xela Flags
Originally uploaded by skavanagh.


[Continue reading this entry]

CUMPLEAÑOS ADIVINANZA

Friday, December 8th, 2006
I am in the middle of hunting for my birthday present. Megan has constructed a scavenger hunt through the city of Xela and I just figured out that I had to visit the blog in order to get one ... [Continue reading this entry]

Weekly Re-Cap

Tuesday, December 5th, 2006
1. When stuck in traffic in an old American school bus covered in slogans like "Jesus is my co-pilot" in Spanish, it is hilarious to change the words to American pop songs so that you end up with lyrics ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Tough-isimo-ocity of our Fearless Heroines

Wednesday, November 29th, 2006
There is a natural hot spring outside of Xela called Fuentes Georginas. We were there over the weekend. We stayed the night with our friends Zil, Cori, and Trika in the little bungalows that dot the perimiter of ... [Continue reading this entry]