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Ten Things That Have Happened To Us In The Last Week

Friday, November 3rd, 2006

1. All three of us, Megan, Sarah and Zil, rode a ferris wheel in Todos Santos. The ticket booth indicated that the ride had, at one point, lived in Chicago (like Zil). We were on the ferris wheel for, I kid you not, 1 hour.

2. We successfully navigated our way through the Guatemalan hillsides using only a map drawn on a napkin. We dubbed this map our “mapkin.”

3. Sarah and Megan both became ill and spent some quality time in the bathroom.

4. Megan met John, an attorney from San Francisco, who had previously been law partners and close personal friends with Bob Lieff, of Lieff, Cabraser, Heimann & Bernstein, Megan’s last place of employment. Megan has never met Bob Lieff personally, though she has seen him in the elevator on two occasions. He wears expensive cuff links and, according to John, recently married his sixth wife. John, unlike Bob Lieff, knows Megan’s name.

5. Since then, we have met more than 5 people who live in San Francisco. It seems that there are far more Americans in Guatemala than in Mexico.

6. We watched the coronation of the Queen of Todos Santos, in which several young women paraded up and down a high-school auditorium floor and an announcer spoke into a microphone so muffled that absolutely none of the event was intelligible to us gringos. The only part we understood was the dancing.

7. We watched the All Saints Days festivities in Todos Santos, during which incredibly drunk men attempt to stay mounted on their horses as they raced back and forth. All day. In red striped pants.

8. Megan and Zil entered a Todosantero bar to escape from the horse races, where they encountered Julia, a small Mam woman who’s father had passed away. Since it was the eve of Day of the Dead, Julia was celebrating her father’s life by drinking and dancing. Julia proceeded to dance with Megan and Zil, grabbing tightly onto their index fingers, until her relatives took her home. Since Julia was about half the size of both Megan and Zil, things got interesting whenever she attempted to twirl them.

9. We took 2 buses on a 5 hour journey from Todos Santos to Xela, paying only $4 U.S. each. Each of these buses let us off at the bus station, which, conveniently, is on the Lonely Planet map.

10. Last but not least, we signed up for a Spanish school at Sakribal to start on Monday. The tuition, room and board comes to a whopping $145 U.S. per person per week.

-Megan and Sarah

In Which Sarah and Megan Watch Footage of a Placenta Being Burried

Thursday, October 26th, 2006

Megan Discusses the Morning
We just made it back to our hostel, hustling, as a gigantic rainstorm rolled in from the hills. Sarah has a sixth sense about these things — I wanted to press on.

Today was filled with activity. We started off at Museo Na Bolom, the former home of a couple of anthropologists who worked extensively with the Lacadonians from the 1950s til today. Trusting in our guidebook one more time (even though it has so often led us astray) we arrived at 11 for a tour only to find that the tour only happened at 4:30 or if you had 4 or more people. So, we wandered aimlessly for half an hour trying to decipher the exhibits, cursing Lonely Planet, until we spotted a charming restaurant located within the hacienda walls. For less than 5 American dollars, we got fruit, orange juice, coffee, homemade bread, and the best huevos I´ve had in México. We even spotted a hummingbird.

Sarah Discusses the Afternoon
Sated and content, we wandered further north, past the municipal market, towards the Museum of Mayan Medicine, which, if I do say so myself, was totally awesome. It was run by an NGO whose mission is the preserve and promote Mayan medicinal practices. The museum is a series of six life-size dioramas of different healing practices, and your last stop is a video about how Mayan women give birth, on their knees embraced by the father of the child. I didn´t understand a word of the video, but there was a lot to see just looking at the footage: labor, newborns covered in blood and goo, and a placenta. Good times. Anyway, I´d recommend this museum to anyone who´s in San Cristobal de las Casas, definitely a must see.

While we were there we ran into our first true American travellers (I´m not counting the young man who we met upon our arrival to San Cristobal who is in Mexico to play for a pro-basketball team in Guadalajara. He lived the first six years of his life in Nigeria and I think he´s a liar… I don´t think there is a pro-basketball team in Guadalajara, plus he was kind of short, but what do I know?) So, now we know where the American travellers go… to the coolest, most socially-responsible spots. Once again, we´re number one.

We´ve set up a transport from our hostel to Huehuetenango on Saturday morning. There we will meet our college friend Zil who´ll spend the Guatemala portion of the trip with us. In the words of Max Hodes, here´s to Good Friends and Friendship.

-Megan and then Sarah

P.S. Click here for our latest pictures

Eat Your Bananas

Monday, October 23rd, 2006
As the daughter of divorced parents who lived five hours apart from each other during my high school years, I like to think of myself as an experienced bus rider. I was, however, unprepared for the glory of first ... [Continue reading this entry]

Would you like some Zapatos with your Zapatistas?

Saturday, October 21st, 2006
Our last few days were spent in Tulum, Mexico, a once important Mayan trading port and currently a huge hit with the tourists. In the late 19th century to early 20th century, Tulum served as the symbolic center of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Size Matters

Thursday, October 19th, 2006

Isla Mujeres 001
Originally uploaded by skavanagh.
I've ... [Continue reading this entry]

It starts… in Cancun!

Monday, October 16th, 2006
We have arrived in Cancun where the keyboard is only slightly different from the keyboard in the U.S. So every time I try to capitalize anything I end up typing a bunch of ¨<¨´s. Bear with me. We awoke ... [Continue reading this entry]

Naps: In Memorium

Tuesday, August 15th, 2006
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WMDs, Executions, and a good place to buy “Annapolis” before it’s out on DVD

Saturday, August 12th, 2006
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A Fond Goodbye to the Adrenaline Pumping Through My Veins

Wednesday, August 9th, 2006
I spent last night reading my Lonely Planet Central America Guidebook and getting happy. I've been a gigantic ball of stress for the past week or so, thinking about all of the stuff that has to get done before ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Capsule that Cares: Musings on Immunization

Monday, August 7th, 2006
At the moment, I am looking at a pamphlet entitled "Vaccine in a Capsule." On the cover of said pamphlet, there is a capsule. The capsule is sitting on top of a refrigerator with its legs, yes, its ... [Continue reading this entry]