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Articles Tagged ‘Kosovo’

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What for, KFOR – We continue through Kosovo

Monday, September 26th, 2005

Sep 26, 2005

Anti-Serbian sentiments are not too hard to come by. Blatant lies about where to find Serbian monasteries, and taxis that refuse to bring you anywhere in the vicinity. We visited two significant monasteries during the course of the day. Gracanica and Peja.

Both monasteries had a significant KFOR presence. The Swedes at the first (Gracanica) seemed relatively relaxed, reading to pass the hours and barely acknowledging us as we passed their checkpoints.

Gracanica
Gracanica monastery

Gracanica
Perhaps a peacekeeper from times past

Gracanica
Modern equivalents

At the second, Peja, the Italians seemed to take their jobs a lot more seriously. Maybe because the second one is actually inside a Serbian enclave. Although occasionally referred to as a ghetto, this enclave has none of the negative conotations of ghetto, being in the countryside. Due to the negative attitudes we had encountered, and the warning that taxis would refuse to take us, we walked from town. Around one bend in the road, we encountered a bunker, rows of razor wire, and heavily armed soldiers. Our passports were examined, our presence was radioed through, and permission to enter was granted. Our passports were held until we had left the zone. Inside, initially it felt like some sort of boot camp. Soldiers jogging in tee shirts, others erecting buildings and fences, tanks and other heavy vehicles lined up along the outside of the monastery wall. And just by monastery entrance, yet another armed checkpoint and bunker. Once inside those walls, the tranquility and contrast was amazing. Old ladies tended immaculately beautiful garden beds. And the triple church, centuries old, with on-going restoration and preservation works, held some beautiful paintings.

Comedy relief was provided by one soldier we spotted, using the mirror from his jeep, and oblivious to all those around, who spent at least a minute making slight adjustments to his beret until it sat just right. Of course he was Italian.

And meanwhile, can anyone explain this:

Strange sign
?????

Posted in Architecture, Kosovo, Travel | 1 Comment »

Coffee keeps the peace in Prizren, Kosovo

Monday, September 26th, 2005

25 – 26 Sep, 2005

We were ready for the KFOR presence. Peacekeepers, keeping peace. However, I think they are now a significant minority group! Not just the occasional vehicle, but maybe 1 in 20! Peacekeepers sipping coffee on the waterfront. Peacekeepers taking photos of each other in front of sights. Peacekeepers wandering the streets armed to the hilt. Peacekeepers chatting on street corners. Generally, nothing to do, but just be ready.

We caught a television sketch while on a bus. Santa Claus was travelling through Kosovo, and was now in trouble. A beret sporting soldier told the interpreter, “You tell him: only the United Nations can grant wishes in Kosovo, and once he admits he is not the authorised wish-bringer, we will let him go.”

A beautiful, though scarred, town. The mosques and the bridges, the shops and water-side cafes, the restaurants and the fountains; all contrasting sharply with the shells of burnt out houses and churches, the consequences of rioting in 2004.

Prizren

After visiting the 16th century mosque in Prizren’s centre, we were invited to climb the minaret. The steep winding stairs could be expected. The darkness could be expected (yes, despite the windows, which are every second rotation, it is pitch black in between, treachorously so). The pigeons were the unexpected hazard. Each step was ankle deep in pigeon shit and nest remains, not to mention occasional eggs. Disturbing the pigeons in the dark led to terrified birds trying to get to windows through the tight stairwell, flapping against the walls, squeezing through legs, hitting me in the face without warning, and tangling in my hair. Oh, and no free hands to hold ones nose! Nice view from the top, though…

Posted in Architecture, Serbia and Montenegro, Travel | No Comments »