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interrogation

Thursday, January 8th, 2009

by a lone female
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

He pulls out his red and white striped truncheon and with his other hand pointing down towards the ground, fingers scooping the air as if they’re doggy-paddling, signals me to come closer.
Great.
It’s the first time I’ve been without passport, having just left them all at the Chinese Embassy, and that’s the time a policeman decides to investigate. I flashback to one of Rob’s first outings in Poland….he ended up in a police cell for a morning when caught without his passport. He even got a uniformed escort back to our apartment…and it happened to be the day he had lent his key to a student, who was coming to live with us, so he couldn’t get in – yeah, likely story the police obviously thought.
I press my hands together in polite greeting and use up a quarter of my Khmer vocabulary in one hit! Never mind, one of the other two policemen standing behind the tree, speaks English.
“Where baby?”
Huh?
He plays charades, indicating a baby in a wrap on his hip.
Oh! Yesterday I had walked this road with ER2, looking for the embassy, which was marked incorrectly on the map. This morning I was returning with filled-out visa applications, but without the “baby”.
“Guesthouse.” I’ve taken to just using important lexical items.
“Good baby?”
“Yes.”
“Where from?”
“New Zealand.”
“Very much.”
Huh? again. Maybe he’s saying it’s far away and so I nod.
Am I free to go?
It would appear not. Mr Policeman has some advice for me.
“Go motorbike. No walk. Much easy.”

He’s right; it would be easier to hop on the back of the motorbikes that stop every few metres along the road offering a ride. But our insurance covers everything EXCEPT motorbike accidents and every accident we’ve seen so far has involved at least one bike.
I walk on. No-one else walks. Everyone else either drives their 4WD or shares a bike or tuktuk with a few others or lets an old man cyclo them wherever they are going.

For the second time in one morning I’m signalled at by a downward-pointing hand. This time by a group of tuktuk drivers congregating on a street corner. They were there playing cards when I walked past both times yesterday and today they’re equally busy.
“Hello Madame. Where from?”
“KHMER GREETING. New Zealand.”
No more time is wasted on pleasantries. He cuts straight to the chase.
“Why you walk?”
“I like to walk.”
“You hot.”
“Yes, but walking is good for me.”
“Good for you, but not for us.”
Everyone laughs and I’m free to continue on my way.

Photos all taken by Rob.
I had said, “Could you get a picture of a cyclo while you’re out?”
He wasn’t gone long and I haven’t even used all his pictures!

PS  When we go to pick up our visas, Mr Plod the Policeman is at his post. He smiles and waves and shakes hands and hugs, saying “New Zealand. Good baby.” We request permission for a photo and he happily obliges….here he is….the actual man…..

would you like to come for breakfast?

Wednesday, January 7th, 2009

by Rach
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
 

We’re just popping down to the market.
We leave our guesthouse…..

and walk down the road. Nothing spectacular, just a fairly typical street.

At the corner there are two sleeping beauties. The other tuktuk drivers on the opposite corner laugh as we photograph this one – I’m sure they’ll tell him later!

The second sleeper is harder to see – can you spot his feet?

Stepping back, I snap again so you can see “the bigger picture”.

And the other side.

At the end of the street, this guy appears. That’s one serious load he’s hauling! We walk down here every morning and there’s always something interesting to see!

Most days we get a “doughnut” from this stall and then some fruit.

But today we’re having rice noodle soup. Over a dozen men and women crowd around to watch us eat, ask us questions, help us learn some more Khmer. We wish the H’s were still with us – obviously people figured we were two medium-sized families when they were here….now we can’t walk down the street together without people stopping us to check how many and where from. Our “Two families” answer to the then-occasional question was too short-lived! Ah well, the “brahmbai gon” and “pee chnahm” (eight children, two years) rippled round the market this morning. Tomorrow might be quieter and quicker for us!

We find bread for lunch and dinner (for dinner we’re stuffing the rolls with BBQed meaty sausages and gherkins and tomatoes – the sausages we’ll get from a stall tonight, the rest we pick up at the market).

We buy bananas and oranges.

We get pepper to go on the tomatoes.

We pass by the chickens.

We don’t bother the butcher, either.

And we cross the road to head home. Hang on, it’s a bit busy, we’ll wait a moment.

Still too busy.

OK, step out now!

Cambodia Quiz

Tuesday, January 6th, 2009
by one who can't help but teach Phnom Penh, Cambodia You want to buy bread rolls. You look for:

two weeks together

Monday, January 5th, 2009

by a friend Phnom Penh, Cambodia 

we have experienced so much....

from bustling Bangkok to the unnerving border crossing, from the eerie grandeur of Angkor to the fire and the almost-stampede, from the even-busier-than-Bangkok Phnom Penh to Kampot, from dogs ... [Continue reading this entry]

*thankful*

Sunday, January 4th, 2009

by Rach Phnom Penh, Cambodia 

 

Today I am thankful for running water. For a toilet that flushes without you having to pour the water in from a bucket. For hot water coming from the shower. That most ... [Continue reading this entry]

loaded

Saturday, January 3rd, 2009
by Rach, who convinced the others to try to squeeze in! Kampot to Phnom Penh, Cambodia To save a bit of time we investigate hiring a minivan for the return trip to Phnom Penh. It's even cheaper than the bus! How ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kampot Connections

Friday, January 2nd, 2009
by Rach Kampot, Cambodia

 

It's a run-down ramshackle dilapidated town. It ... [Continue reading this entry]

food in our tummies and a roof over our heads

Thursday, January 1st, 2009
by a surprised traveller Phnom Penh to Kampot, Cambodia  Expecting to be picked up just before nine, we were cutting into our breakfast watermelon at a quarter to eight when the guesthouse staff apologetically announced at our open doorway that the ... [Continue reading this entry]

rubbish!

Wednesday, December 31st, 2008
by someone with questions Phnom Penh, Cambodia It's four hours later and my eyes are still stinging, there's still that catchy taste lingering at the back of my throat, despite having eaten an ice-cream and a plate of rice noodles. Where's the ... [Continue reading this entry]

culture of corruption

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008
by someone, who hasn't quite got over it yet Phnom Penh, Cambodia

 

Unfortunately it makes us suspicious and a little cynical. Way back at the border, the tuktuk drivers tried to tell us that Cambodians are ... [Continue reading this entry]