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the untold story of italy

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Bacoli – virtually Naples, Italy

Have you ever watched those travel documentaries or family-goes-to-find-their-dream-property-in-Italy programmes or read books of the same ilk? We’d read the books, but have heard the televised version exists too. However, I’m beginning to wonder if all the literature we happened upon was actually romantic fiction disguised as travel stories. Nowhere did we ever see a comparison of Italy and Cambodia. Isn’t Italy La Dolce Vita and Carpe Diem?
Yes, it may be those things. And it is also straight lines of olive trees marching up a rocky mountain. It is grapevines and deep blue sea beaches. It is pasta and pesto and wonderful gelato. But it is more than these things.
Today it reminded us of Cambodia.
We ended up taking photos to do a comparison. If only we had got snaps of the big fishing nets hanging across the river – Just The Same. If only we had thought early enough to take one of the chickens we saw scratching round in a yard. We got these ones though….can you tell which is Cambodia and which is Italy?

In both countries mansion-like buildings are surrounded by high concrete walls punctuated with spikey-pronged solid metal gates.

In both countries it’s easy to find houses that are disintegrating.

Both countries sell an abundance of cheap fruit – actually even more in Cambodia, but the peaches here are kissed by God Himself. And only 50 cents a kilo.

Both countries suffer under intense heat.

Neither country has a road system to be proud of. Admittedly, Cambodia’s is far worse, but Italy’s is not exactly a smooth ride if you’re off the autostrade. And in both countries dirt tracks protrude from the main sealed roads – yes, even in Italy. I can’t decide which country possesses the worst drivers. We witnessed more accidents in Cambodia (almost one every day), but they were mostly of the *inconsequential* motorbike-dings-motorbike variety. Directly in front of us, sliding to a stop slightly behind us, on the road to Rome we saw three cars smash into each other, totally crumpling the long bonnet of the middle one as it made that distinctive sound not unlike a thousand coke cans being crushed by a giant hand. A gut-wrenching sound that made Rob check his wing mirror to see what was happening (he was just in front) and me to check my wing mirror to see if we had room to escape if any of the cars would swing towards us after impact. The further south we have ventured, the worse the driving has become. Today we realised these guys do not drive with fierce aggression, they drive with complete abandon. I’m not sure you would believe the tales we could tell of the total idiot manouvres we almost got tangled up in today. Too often my heart was racing and our vans swerving. Maybe Italy takes the prize for maddest drivers!

It feels uncharitable to make such comparisons, especially when books-n-blogs and other people’s reality shows are about romancing the good life, but this is a record of our experience and so we tell our tale….we saw some similarities.

follow the fountain

Sunday, August 23rd, 2009

Rome, Italy

When the temperature gets up to the high thirties…and even creeps up into the forties…these little kiwis feel HOT. Fortunately, a fantastic place for this to occur is Rome with its over 1,500 fountains constantly spurting fresh cool deliciously sweet water. We trudged around the city, creeping from shadow to shadow, snatching glimpses again of the Coliseum and Roman Forum, looking up longingly at Palatine Hill (remembering filling water bottles and splashing faces there yesterday), admiring the Pantheon (how can a building so large seem so un-overpowering? yet how can such a huge crowd of people waiting outside it for a service to finish, so suddenly be swallowed up inside it so that it did not seem full?), poking nose’s into Pinnochio workshops, eating sandwiches but remembering yesterday’s pizza, discussing Vivaldi and Carnival, watching an artist at work, giggling at a dog transporter….all the while stopping at almost every fountain we came across to sip and splash….to throw a coin in the fountain that would apparently ensure our return to Rome……

 

Our goals for the day completed. By 2pm.
We try not to do too much in a day, preferring to take it slowly and not send the kids over the brink. But, as I say, it was only 2pm (the time of day when sensible people would retire to their hotel swimming pools for a couple of hours, leaving the heat to do its thing) and being neither sensible, nor staying in a hotel, we continued walking. When you’ve only got two days, you want to make the most of it. Besides, when we had voiced Rome plans to friends and family at home…plans that omitted the Vatican City….we received a flurry of emails in our inbox. You’ve got to get at least to St Peter’s. You can’t go to Rome and not visit da Pope. Who will crack the da Vinci code if you don’t go?
So we kept walking. Down beside the Tiber River, under the bridges, over the bridges. Right on up to the basilica. It was too hot to go find the spot where all the columns line up. We just tacked ourselves on the end of the entrance line and hoped the shadow cast by the building would quickly gather us in.

 

We spent so long in this, the biggest church in Christendom, that it was late when we came out. Too late to consider the trek to the Sistine Chapel, too late to admire any more art work, no matter how famous. Too late to invite the Pope to share our last bunch of grapes. Time only to stop at one more fountain before finding a bus to get back to the tram that would take us to our final bus (you can only walk so far in the heat, and the bus trip extended our tour of Rome!) When you’re only in Rome for two days, you push the kids just past their limits….and on the odd occasion are rewarded with them coping. Maybe it was the fountains.

when in Rome….

Saturday, August 22nd, 2009
….let your imagination run wild.

I scurry from shadow to shadow, snatching what cool I can, evading the fierce rays beaming down from the eternally blue canopy. I wait in line at one of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

all roads lead to Rome

Friday, August 21st, 2009
Rome, Italy yea, even the bumpy, patched, pitted, potholed ones. At least that’s the one we came in to the great city on. Not that we have made it right in to town. We’re basking in the shade of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

super market (second take)

Thursday, August 20th, 2009
Santa Fiora, Italy At the risk of being monotonous, the supermarket features again today. Yesterday in the supermarket, behind a glass-faced counter was a tantalising bowlful of fresh white ricotta cheese. Even better, it was inexpensive. But not so cheap that ... [Continue reading this entry]

singing in the supermarket

Wednesday, August 19th, 2009
Santa Fiora, Italy After a cooler night that facilitated better sleeping, the air was heavy with pressing heat as we sat down to fresh melon for breakfast. We acknowledged it was certainly going to be another scorcher, perhaps even the ... [Continue reading this entry]

rundown ’talian towns

Tuesday, August 18th, 2009
Certaldo, Italy While not wanting to be hasty in passing judgement, the general impression we have of Italy so far is that it is a bit rundown – apart from relatively isolated instances of painted facades, mosaics or painted tiles ... [Continue reading this entry]

Galileo just may have been here

Monday, August 17th, 2009
Certaldo, Italy….via Pisa It is said that Galileo dropped two differing weight cannonballs from the top of what is conceivably the most famous bell tower in the world. The point he was trying to prove was one that our older ... [Continue reading this entry]

good food is not restricted to france

Sunday, August 16th, 2009
Pescia, Italy According to the French, the Italians have nothing after the noodle. But that just ain’t true. This morning, having been woken early by cheerily tolling bells merely metres from our motorhomes, we were quietly minding our business, intentionally not going ... [Continue reading this entry]

how many hills will our vans cope with?

Saturday, August 15th, 2009
Pescia, Italy mountain mountain mountain hairpin bend hairpin bend hairpin bend mountain mountain mountain up and around up and around up and around down down down mountain mountain mountain It was only 120km, but it seemed a long way. It went up and up, down and ... [Continue reading this entry]