BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the '2008/09' Category

« Home

we’re so hot we overtook a Ferrari

Friday, August 14th, 2009

carpark beside the river in Aulla, Italy

It’s true!
We’re hot. High thirties hot and humid with it.
And we did overtake a Ferrari. This one:

I guess you know it was not going at top speed.
When we were in the early days of driving these vehicles, Rob kept saying over and over, “Hold your line. They’re expensive, they’ll move.”
This time we were in the middle of Riviera madness, a constant stream of vehicles careering along the highway and I was determined to not get separated from The Bear Cave. So I took on the yellow Ferrari, held my line and discovered again Rob was right. They’re expensive; and they do wait.

Driving along the Riviera beside a Ferrari….sounds not bad eh!
Will you believe it was one of our most unfavourite days?

If you came in to port on a cruise ship, the green-shuttered pink and yellow buildings climbing up the hills would look quite pretty. If you disembarked and were whisked away to an umbrella on the beach or a ristorante just off the promenade, it might all seem quite pleasant. But we were in vans, crawling along in traffic from one town to the next, all identical and not a spot to stop anywhere. Carparks with their 2m high barriers were all off-limits to us, roadside parking was already all taken and so it was literally impossible for us to find anywhere to stop for dozens of kilometres. Turning left into the “towns” was also a no-go; the streets were impossibly narrow and had to be going nowhere as we could see the mountains rising up directly behind them. To our right, the sea was tantalisingly close, but we could not get to it.
The umbrella-ed beaches made a pretty picture, but we were unable to snatch more than a glimpse down through the trees, across roadside barriers. Fortunately there were so many, that our many snatches built up quite a picture in our minds eye! The entire stretch of road that we covered along the coast was identical…..umbrella beach followed by a wriggle through tall tatty colourful plastered buildings. Everywhere there were motorbikes overtaking, cars weaving in and out, pedestrians zipping across the road, oppressive heat blasting down, buildings, buildings, buildings, and we could not stop.
Strange noises came from The Bear Cave. It was just Rob wondering aloud how to say, “I’m out of my mind” in Italian. You see, it wasn’t just the ongoing beach issue. We had already had a demanding morning in a mountain meander. Spectacular, but hard driving. The adrenaline can only keep pumping for so long on those narrow winding roads! The constant appearance of signs warning of falling rocks and others indicating it’s about to get windy (as if we haven’t just spent two hours going round the bend bends), starts to wear away at you after a few days of it!

 

Back beside the sea, Grandpa informed me he is not fond of beaches at the best of times and this type with lines of changing rooms and merry-go-rounds and inundated with people is the worst  of all – Brighton on steroids. We drove on; mostly because we had no choice, partly because we didn’t really want to.  
We just kept driving and driving and driving and always it looked the same. Always there were the crowds, cars and condos. We got hot. We got hungry. At the top of a hill we found a place to pull over. It turned out to be a bus stop! So we moved on again. Then right next to the sea, we found our lunch spot. We couldn’t actually see the sea, because there was a seven foot high fence, but we know it was there. Getting out of the vans to cool off was not an option: the only shade was roadside. So we squished around tables eating prosciutto and roma tomatoes on ciabatta. It wasn’t all bad! Soon afterwards, when we re-entered the fray, we passed our Ferrari.

Desperate to get out of the mayhem, we did not object in the slightest when the road wound away from the beachfront and up a hill. The hill turned into a mountain. On and on we went. Up and up. Views across the orange-topped houses and dark green trees were undeniably amazing, but hard to appreciate when negotiating the road, and when already tired from morning mountains and the Riviera Rampage.
Just like earlier in the day, there was nowhere to pull over. We started wondering where we would stop for dinner and bed. We eventually found a spot right underneath the toll motorway. What an irony –  we had been avoiding that road all day. We had been watching it streak across valleys on bridges and through tunnels in a straight line while we rounded curves and topped mountains on the old main winding road. We had spent the hottest hours of the day in dense traffic while the motorway tauntingly drifted just beyond us. And now we were going to sleep under it. We had spent all day either beside the sea or in spectacular mountains and now we were going to sleep under the motorway! It was not the best spot for kids getting out to stretch legs, so we decided to press on and use the daylight for travelling – another half hour today would be half an hour less tomorrow. We ended up beside a river, squeezed into a carpark, a school in front of us, police station through an adjacent mosaic-ed archway, the town sleeping right there with us.
We didn’t fire up the laptop. We didn’t grab a book from the shelf. We just collapsed into bed and slept soundly. Not what we expected of the Riviera; we’d thought we were going to the beach for a few days!
But we did overtake a Ferrari.

mama mia!

Thursday, August 13th, 2009

ended up next to a cemetery in Briaglio, Italy

It was a demanding day; driving-wise, parenting-wise, emotions-wise, new-country-wise. And it is exactly those first impressions that you need to capture before they become familiar. Things like not knowing how to use the gas station (turns out you pay your money, fill up and then get your change back!) Things like the momentary realisation that you have no words other than musical ones to speak, and neither crescendo nor fortissimo is going to cut it with the beggar who has just come up to you to ask for money. Things like the first few towns being rundown and full of rusting corrugated iron roofs…..even by the day’s end, this impression had been washed away by the beautiful paintings on buildings making flat surfaces look like three-dimensional altars and window frames. Speaking of altars, things like a myriad of roadside ones. Things like pedestrian crossings being painted red and white and almost everyone driving with their lights on. Things like everybody being dressed immaculately – all clothes look brand new, women’s shoes are either little strappy numbers or high heels (it has made us feel decidedly tatty after almost a year of wearing the same two sets of clothes!) Things like the couple sitting outside their front door – their chairs didn’t quite fit on the pavement and so their feet were hanging on the street, the main road through town that was so narrow we barely fit, let alone needing to swerve to avoid running them over! Things like Cuneo’s massive town square surrounded by buildings with a wide shade-trapping arched overhang; and the main street too…..roads onto the square cut under the archways. Shops filled with gelato and fancy pastries and lacoste and shiny black boots and CDs and sweets and truffles (not the chocolate ones, but the pighunted ones that cost thirteen euros eighty for a mere 30 grams!) Things like funeral notices glued to public boards and men who talk with their hands.

 

 

And let’s not forget the day’s beginning. Yesterday’s mountains were child’s play in comparison to today’s struggle. Not only did today’s road go up, but it snaked in hairpin bends, a few on the up and nineteen on the way down again. The view is likely to have been spectacular, but I was petrified of the drop away from the winding road and was tempted to squeeze my eyes tightly till it was all over. Instead, I sat hunched over the steering wheel, shoulders tense, foot flat to the floor, straining upwards. We pulled over in the hopes of not overheating. We pulled over again when The Bear Cave’s temperature gauge reached the fiery red warning stage. We called it lunchtime. It would have been nice to call it a day and stay put, to spend the afternoon wandering up the slopes, observing the wildlife (in our two short stops we saw a myriad of beautiful butterflies and enormous cicadas and so many dragonflies we lost count), but we were heading for Savona, 190km away, and as we had only traversed 30km by lunchtime, putting the brakes on so early in the piece would certainly not have got us any closer.

 

As it was, we did not get anywhere near Savona.
We pulled in to Cuneo just after 2pm. If we’d been in France, the shops would have been starting to open again after the midday closing. But this is Italy and they would remain closed for another hour and a half! So we waited. Keen to get another fancy stick doodad that will allow us internet access, there was no choice but to wait. Fortunately the wait was worthwhile (even if pricey – GULP – don’t ask how much), but it meant we were not hitting the road again until 5:30pm.
We are busy avoiding a toll road and unlike France, the alternative routes are not major roads – they are steep narrow winding under-maintained strips linking every small village on the map. Italians like to overtake on these roads, and when they perceive there to be not quite enough room for them to squeeze past they give you a toot to move you over. The Italians are zippy in their cars….the rule for roundabouts does not seem to be “give way to whatever is already there”, but “if there’s a little gap, try your hardest to fill it before someone else does”. Being bigger does not seem a deterrent at all – if anything they are extra-eager to make sure they get in front of us (possibly due in part to the comments about the roads above).

Such are initial impressions. I wonder how many will prove to be generally incorrect.

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 148km

onwards and upwards

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009
Barcelonnette, France From the foothills we climb. There are hills ahead of us, nay, mountains and we need to get over them to make it to Italy. We hope the vans are going to cope! The morning’s drive is rugged. ... [Continue reading this entry]

celebration and recreation

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009
by….I think I’ll stop saying who’s writing – if it’s not me, I’ll let ya know Nyons, France Happy Birthday to Mboy-now7!

What a good place to request a chocolate cake!! Just a pity the fancy ... [Continue reading this entry]

now we know

Monday, August 10th, 2009
by Rachael Nyons, France We haven’t exactly left France yet, but our tiny taste is drawing to a close. We were just contemplating (read: blog post author just grilled everyone for ideas <wink> actually, the contributions flowed thick and fast and ... [Continue reading this entry]

you want the whole truth, don’t you?

Sunday, August 9th, 2009
by Rach (hope you’re not getting bored with only one author!) Nyons, France It’s an ugly morning complete with arguing, skinned elbows and a route taking in every industrial estate in the south of France; even the sunflowers are sad, their ... [Continue reading this entry]

slow travel

Saturday, August 8th, 2009
by Rach industrial estate just past Montpellier, France the wind still blows; not a whisper, not a howl, just sufficient to render the beach unattractive we move on the map indicates about 170km, not too far so we stop and shop, a whole week’s ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mediterranean Moment

Friday, August 7th, 2009
by Rachael Narbonne-Plage, France

wind: blowing fiercely a-l-l   d-a-y   l-o-n-g demanding trees bow low, forcing sand along the beach, whipping washing to stand at attention completely U-P-R-I-G-H-T on the clothesline, never-a-moment-stopping hot ceaseless blast the mistral blows

It blows and makes a day at ... [Continue reading this entry]

things that go bump in the night

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

 

“It’s going to be a great spot to catch the sunrise,” Jgirl14 correctly informed us before going to bed last night, and in preparation she set the alarm and kept the camera at the ... [Continue reading this entry]

in search of shade

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009
by Rach hovering just above the coast near Narbonne, looking out at the Mediterranean Sea It doesn’t seem that long ago that we were desperately in search of sun. Today we, with the rest of the population in the south, looked ... [Continue reading this entry]