BootsnAll Travel Network



what the heck is this blog about?

This blog is for me to share with you all about the exciting adventures I am having while spending all my money on travel. When not sleeping in train stations and lugging a pack around you'll find me wishing I was, in the garden city of Christchurch, New Zealand. I'm an 20-something, wishing-I-still-was-one student, worth around 100 camels according to that guy in Morocco. Lucky enough to have already been on lots of global adventures but still looking for more countries to go to with unpronounceable names. On the right you can see my progress around the world. Blogs posts are grouped in countries and in different trips. The first block is from my 2006/2007 RTW trip, below that is my 2008 'overland trip', then lay travels since then. There is also links to all my photos, video's and trip expenses. Have a look around and please leave me a comment if you like what you read! *update* I am now living in London with a job that I love and taking a break from the travelling life, one day I will return but till then...

Hill tribe trekking

December 16th, 2008

I had signed up for a 3 day trek through my guest house, struggling to wake up, eat breakfast and fit everything into a day pack I managed to get everything together by the 9am pickup. Lots of people had told me it would be cold so I took my sleeping bag which took up most of the room in my day pack then tried to fit a few more things around it.

Unlike NZ where tramping (trekking) means 20 kg’s on your back, carrying your gas cookers, all your food and possibly a tent, plus gear for anything from snow to sun, and stumbling along a bush path marked by intermittent orange triangle. Trekking in other parts of the world, usually means a guide, places to stay each night with all food provided along the way. I think when I describe NZ trekking experiences to other people they either a) think I am crazy and wonder why I would do anything so painful sounding or b) think I am super hard core outdoors where in reality I am neither, or though maybe slightly crazy when I think about it. So really this trek wasn’t exactly the hardest thing I have ever done, but a few hills to make it challenging enough to feel like you’d achieved something.

In my trekking group were Donald and Malieka from Holland, Ivan from France, Henry from Canada and 4 British guys traveling together (how anyone can travel in a group of 4 for a year is beyond me, I have bet that by the time they get to NZ they will have gone separate ways). We also had 2 guides who were really cool. Firstly we stopped by a market to pick up supplies then drove an hour or so out to the elephant camp where we went for a short ride, by now I have ridden a lot of elephants, but they are just so cool! I brought some banana’s and fed them to our elephant along the way then had to fight off his trunk as he was looking for more.


When we were walking over to the elephants we noticed that it was mating season and a couple of elephants were *ummmm* enjoying themselves a bit, kind of looked as though the male had an extra leg…..after charging through the bush and knocking down a few tree’s we had some lunch where Edd thought it would be a great idea to eat a huge spoonful of chilies…even the Thai ladies serving lunch felt sorry for him.


Then it was about 3 hours walk mostly up hill to our village on the side of a hill (it is hill tribe trekking after all) with beautiful views of the valley around us.


We stayed in a raised bamboo house where we had delicious food and played the guitar by candle light all night with a family and our guides. Although we could really only manage a handful of songs: Let it Be (although only the chorus) Wonderwall, and that annoying “mia-hee, mia-haa mia-hoo” song….hilarious repeating those all night before it was under our mosquito nets for the night only to be woken bright an early by roosters who seem to have the skill of sounding like they are inside your head.

Back on the trail it was a steep climb for the first bit but then easier for the rest of the day. Fro lunch we stopped at a waterfall, cold and way too much waterfall but nice for a dip and a relaxing lunch then lying in the sun for a bit.


Our camp for the night was a similar house but in the jungle, not a village, again a nice dinner then we lit a campfire and sung a few songs and talked before heading to bed.


Our final day was a short walk to the white water rafting base where we rafted down the river for about an hour, I was a little scared as my last white water rafting experience in Peru had almost killed me, but we managed to stay inside the boat this time and the rapids weren’t quite as life threatening. Then we transferred into a bamboo raft which floated half sunk down to where we had lunch, hung out in the sun where the boys played football for a bit.


Great 3 days, not too hard, lots of different stuff to do and great people, plus very cheap, only 1500 baht ($75NZD) for everything for 3 days, almost cheaper than not doing it! Back to Chiang Mai I said goodbye, a little sad as everyone was meeting for drinks later, but I had a bus that night so had a quick shower, some food then it was off to an overnight bus to Bangkok where I learned that the airport had re-opened (yay) and everything would be all good for my flight home. Actually 6 of the 8 people are heading to New Zealand in the next 6 months so hopefully I’ll catch up with them all.

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cooking school

December 10th, 2008

My full day cooking class was through the Pad Thai cooking school, we selected 6 dishes on the way that we were going to cook during the day. There were about 16 of us, mostly from my guest house, and while we learned lots about cooking, mostly we were eating.

The day started off with a visit to the food market where our instructor Pat told us a bit about Thai vege’s and spices before we were left to wander around and check out the crazy stuff on offer. Then it was off to the cooking school, a nice big space with lots of woks and a big table to eat at.

(Dragon Fruit at the market)

Our second instructor Meow (like the cat), got us underway with Thai name tags then it was on to the cooking. It was really pretty relaxed as they did most of the preparation work for us, cutting and cleaning. For each dish there were a few different options so we were in smaller groups for most of the time.

(our group enjoying our 3rd lunch) 

I cooked Kao Soi a yum chicken noodle dish, Tom Yum soup, fish cakes, Penang curry, stir fry (over big gas flame) and black rice pudding. After each time we made something we all sat around the table eating and sharing what other people had made.

(Tom Yum soup) 

They also showed how to make curry paste, but lets be honest, buying it is a bit more practical. We finished up around 5pm so a full day of eating. Definitely didn’t need any more food for the day.

(Big flame!) 

The people on the course were really cool and we all meet up at this funky rooftop bar later on during the night, where even though I was just going to have a quick drink and get to bed early as I was going trekking in the morning, we ended up buying buckets and staying out till about 3am. Fun night and very good times, although hard to get up in the morning!



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Eating and shopping in Chiang Mai

December 8th, 2008

It was good to be in Thailand again, people are so friendly and things are jut so easy! People speak English, the hostels are helpful and will book everything for you and things are just very very cheap! The only thing is that it presents no sort of challenge, but I think I have had enough of that on this trip so was ready to just enjoy easy 2 weeks in Thailand.

So trying to put the frustrating Laos experience behind me, I enjoyed my double room at Josies (or maybe Jodies?) guest-house for the night, probably one of the more flash places I’ve stayed at, and at only $12 I thought I could probably justify it (and it was the only room left and I couldn’t be bothered finding another place). After one night I swapped into the much cheaper dorm room for only $3.50 a night. The guy at the desk look worried when I asked for a dorm and said to me “But are you sure? You have to share with 4 other people, they could be boys” Um, yes I am quite aware of what a dorm is given I have been in them for the last 5 months….

Turns out my dorm had girls in it anyway, and met Jen a English chick, who, like me is aways in need of company so we spent the next couple of days together where we ate our way around the city and went to lots of markets. First we went up to see one of the main temples in the area. Now I like temples but have pretty much seen enough to last me a life time but thought I would just do one while in Chiang Mi. This one was up a hill about 45 minutes drive from town, we took a shared taxi which is like a ute with sideways seats in the back, great for getting around town but not so great for an almost hour journey up a winding hill. By the time we arrived Jen was looking a bit green so we recovered in the shade for a bit then climbed the stairs to the temple.

It was pretty cool, on a hill overlooking Chiang Mai, lots of gold, lots of Buddhas and lots of people, both Thai and Farang. Interesting to see the difference between Tibetan Buddhism and Thai Buddhism, lots of more gold in Thai land and a very different feel. It was a nice place to walk around for a bit. Very busy, lot going on with food vendors, shops and taxis all crowding around the entrance. On the way back down we made sure we sat in the front facing forward which helped quite a bit.

After some typical food like Banana pancakes, Pad Thai and Mango sticky rice we headed down to the night market to check out all the stuff to buy-which is a lot. As Thailand is my last destination before home I thought it was OK to start buying up large and filling my pack. And really what better place to do that than Thailand! I got a few things before we were exhausted from shopping and headed back home for bed.

The next morning I went for a walk while Jen was sorting some stuff out to a big indoor market where they sold loads of spices and food and through all the street stalls packed with Thai’s doing their shopping. Back at the hostel me and Jen kind of sat around not doing a whole lot until about 5 when we headed out to the Sunday market, which has lots of different stuff from the night market. We ended up spending a good few hours wandering the stalls, eating a lot of food we came across, buying a lot. There was loads of great food at the market, we had Kao Soi for dinner, a yummy coconut soup with noodles and chicken, the moved on to coconut dumplings, garlic bread, tea in crazy bamboo cups, mango sticky rice, some sort of ancient ice cream…Eventually after 4 or 5 hours of easting and shopping we pushed our way out of the crowds and recovered with a beer before heading back.

(Jen with a big bamboo cup fillled with tea) 

Jen was off the next morning for a week long elephant training thing and I was off on a day cooking class. In Chiang Mai people all do the same thing go to the night markets, do cooking classes and go trekking. Well I did all of them as well, cos they are really just good things to do!  Ad all so easy to book, I booked everything through my guest house who organised the whole thing with pick ups and everything, hurray for Thailand!

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A short expensive detour through Laos

December 8th, 2008

As my boat wasn’t going I was forced to detour through Laos, which isn’t in itself a bad thing. I love Laos and had an awesome time there last year, its cheap ad fun. But when I was just passing through trying to get to Thailand it wasn’t so cool. Made worse by the fact it didn’t turn out to be cheap at all…but I won’t get ahead of myself.

Bright and early I made a start for the border hoping to get as far towards the Thai-Laos border as I could that night. The day invovled a looong series of taxi, bus, tuk-tuk, taxi, bus, bus etc etc.

First job get to the border town. There I meet Danial and Anushia, a German/Malay couple and a Japanse guy heading the same way so we made it to the border and crossed out in Laos together. Paid my $35 USD visa feee, a little frustrating as only there for 24 hours!

We waited on the Laos side and had some food until bus took us to another town where we said goodbye to the Japanese guy then continued to yet another bus station to try get a final bus to our last destination that night. Of course the last bus had left but maybe there would be another one passing through at 2, or 3 or 4…hmmm typical Laos attitude. Deciding to wait it out and hope for the best we sat around a drunk some BeerLao in the sun. Laos is super chilled out and already it felt just like I remembered south east asia. We had been driving through beautiful jungle all day and waiting for the bus we looked out over banana tree’s and green fields.

Eventually the bus did come and we piled onto the old bus, we had to literaly climb over the luggage piled up in the asiles but once we were settled we started the 5 hour journey east to Huay Xia, it wasn’t so bad.  Also in the bus we discovered a furry little creature tied up under the seats, very strange, we have no idea what it actually was or why it was there.

(Our furry bus friend) 

Our drive was really scenic as we passed through faded green fields dotted with thatched huts. A massive gleaming gold stupa rose out of a hill in the distance. Definitley a lot different than China, a lot less developed although luckily the road we were on is new and cut the travelling time down from 8 to 4 hours. Eventually we pulled into the town at around 8pm, a long day of travelling but not a bad one.

Huay Xie is really just a tourist destination, one street packed with cheap guest houses, internet cafe’s and street side restaurants. After finding a box like room for $5 I meet up with Daniel and Anushia for some food and to find a mini bus leaving the next morning for Chiang Mai in Thailand. All sorted, got where wanted to go, everything easy…well so far

The next day proved to be difficult. After discovering at the border that I couldn’t leave as I didn’t have an entry stamp in passport, apparently I was supposed to check this at the border and go to a different line after I had gotten my visa which had about 5 stamps on it anyway. Surely it would be their fault for letting me into the country without a stamp, but no its my problem and I would have to travel back to the chinese border to fix it…or pay $100 USD, made even worse by the exchange rate which means this is $200 NZ. Well I was super pissed off, and lost it a bit, for the first time on any of my travels and just could not see a way out of this horrilbly unfair situation. I sat at the border pleading and with guards to let me though, aware that any extra moey would have to come out of my home fund. I ended up bursting into tears and really losing it, enough to make some nice people come ask me if I was OK. Turns out Daniel and another girl had the same problem and it was a very stressful morning on the phone to the embassy trying to sort out options which was basically pay them. It was frustraiting because it was essentially just a bribe. I tried to sneak around and use my British passport just to buy another visa which was only $35 but the officals saw me and took me to the back office where I thought I might be arrested! But no, jut  told me again that I needed to pay the $100.

 Also my atm card wouldn’t work so I couldn’t even get out money, ended up using my credit card to get a cash advance and evetually gave in, talked them down to $80 and crossed the river into Thailand. It was so frustraiting and should really hve just walked through to begin with but I asked something and after they looked at my passport they woruldnt let me go. A mini bus would have got me to Chiang Mai in 5 hours but by bus it took about 8 hours swapping buses in Chiang Rai.


(Thailand on the left, Laos on the right. Crossing the river border)

It was late and I was well over it by the time I arrived in Chiang Mai. I took a private room with my own bathroom to make myself feel better and collapsed into bed trying not to think about the huge amount of uneccesary money I spent.

Laos=Bad times

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the Thai side of China

December 7th, 2008

My sleeper bus into Jinghong was long and painful, mostly because I was just a little too big for the beds and also I was in the middle row of bunks and had people on either side of me camped out in the aisles. But after 15 hours we pulled into Jinghong, main city of the Xishuangbanna autonomous region which is home to the Dai people plus lots of other tribes. Down in Banna it basically feels like South-East Asia and is very Thai-like with temples and buildings all reminding me of the Thai wats. Life is also a lot slower than the rest of the china, its warm humid and loads of tropical forest filled with hill tribes which cross over a lot with Northern Thailand. So lots of fresh fruit and coconut curries, very good!

But of course underneath it all it’s still China. On the bus I had met 2 American guys, Ben and John who were studying Chinese so I happily stuck with them as they translated everything. We grabbed a taxi to a guesthouse with raised bamboo huts and spent the day wandering around trying to adjust to the new heat and humidity. Along our street was Mei-Mei’s cafe which we quickly worked out was the cool place to hang out with other tourists, there I met Stuart who I had shared a room with in Dali and the other guys had trekked Tiger Leaping gorge with so we hung out together for the next few days. In the evening we visited the night market and had a few cheap beers and dinner out and about and sorted out hiring a car and driver for the following day to go to a waterfall.

So the next day we bundled up into our car and about an hours drive through lush green jungle we pulled up to a village and hiked the hour or so to the waterfall, we got lost a few times trying to find the totally unmarked path which surprisingly had very few people on it.


But we eventually made it to the totally secluded and remote waterfall after following along the hills. It was really beautiful and we swam a bit and jumped off the rocks before drying in the sun and heading back to the car.

Great day trip and good to be able to share the cost with the boys, went through amazingly beautiful jungle and hardly anyone around which is rare in China, walk was good, not too difficult at all so good day, we just should have taken food with us as we were starving by the end. Back in town we ate more food, drunk more beer and stalked a guy who Stuart swore was an English paedophile who had escaped prison.

 The Americans took off the next morning to Laos and Stuart was leaving in the afternoon to another village so we spent the morning biking around. Apparently there are lots of villages and things close to bike to but we didn’t quite make it there, saw the Mekong and dodged a bit of traffic and carried our bikes through a few bits before finding a nice quite path through scenic fields.


Stuart had to leave on his bus after lunch so we dropped the bikes off and I spent the afternoon sorting out money and bus tickets for my early morning start the next day heading into Laos. I was actually in Jinghong because there was supposed to be a boat that went down the Mekong right into Thailand, but of course it wasn’t runing the week I wanted and with m visa about to expire I needed to get out and Laos was the easiest option to get into Thailand quickly…well so I thought… 

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the economic crisis is lame

December 6th, 2008

OK, so really I am just complaining but found a graph of the NZ dollar against the USD today.

I left in 07/08 which is precisely when the NZ dollar started falling…dramatically, making my money worth a heck of a lot less. Why did I choose to travel during a freaking economic crisis!? Oh well guess I am almost home and managed to survive….just wanted to complain a bit

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Dali-more old towns and city walls

December 6th, 2008

Apparently the bus ride from Shangri-la to Dali is beautiful but I slept most of the way, just waking up as we approached the lake which Dali is close to, driving round the lake was nice with green fields and big mountains. I jumped off the bus close to Dali old town, as the bus heads into the 20km away Dali real town. Ignoring offers of taxis I decided to try to walk to my hostel, getting hopelessly lost of course and trying to figure out whether I was actually inside or outside the city walls.

(Dali city walls)

Eventually I made to the ‘Jade Emu’ hostel, brand new and run by a Aussie/Chinese couple, an excellent place with an amazing ensuite bathroom on the dorm, best shower I’ve ever had and they even give you towels and shampoo! Plus lots of books, movies and just a generally great place.

Recovering from my mission to get there I hung out at the hostel fom the afternoon making use of fee internet and dvd’s and sharing hotpot with an American guy for dinner. For only 15 yuan you can get hotpot at the hostel with unbelievable amounts of food, good times indeed and a bit less spicy than the last one. My next full day I did what I usually do in new places, wandered around and ate food….saw the city walls, lots of shops, lots of tourists. I like Dali a lot better than Lijang, still lots of tourists but a bit more ‘real’ feeling, as in not only existing for tourists. Its more laid back and in beautiful location with big hills behind it.


So after eating and shopping I headed back to the hostel where I met up with Ian in my room and we grabbed some dinner in town and walked around the streets for a few hours before bed time.When I was driving in to Dali we went through some really nice green fields between the hills and the lake so I hired a bike for the day and set off on what turned out to be a bit of an epic 7 hour bike ride. I just kept biking and then eventually realised I had to get back still which was a lot harder with a head wind. By the end I was over it, but the first part was great, biking through green vegetable fields, saw the huge 3 pagodas, lots of other people cruising around on bikes. Really relaxed and nice and went through a few villages.


 On the way back I went down the main road which was a bit flatter, this was a lot more busy with lots of buses and cars going back and of course a head wind. Finally I made it back exhausted but at least having done some exercise! The hostel was doing another hotpot and this time there were a load of people including the owner so we had a massive dinner with never ending food, it was great!My bus to Jinghong was leaving the following night and after my mega ride the day before I just relaxed for the day, I went out for lunch with Ian and we sat in the sun and wandered around a bit, then it was time to leave, another night sleeping bus with too small beds, for 15 hours south again to Jinghong, my final China destination

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finding my Shangri-la

December 5th, 2008

Shangri-La was first a fictional place described in the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by British author James Hilton. It was a mythical Himalayan paradise where everyone was happy and things were sweet. Since then Shangri-la ha been used as a term for travelers to describe their perfect holiday spots, and also become a international hotel chain. Clever China thought if they renamed a small Tibetan town in Yunnan from Zongdian to the more interesting Shangri-la, then more tourists would go. It worked and I was on a bus heading to north to just-about-Tibet, the ‘real’ Shangri-la.

Shangri-la is mostly Tibetan, and was as close as I was going to get this trip to the real thing. And well, it seemed pretty much like Tibet to me. There is an old town with cobbled-stone streets and a temple on a hill overlooking the town. Its freezing cold and at high altitude, so showering is difficult as the pipes freeze and there is no water. When I arrived it was late and dark and didn’t quite make it to the hotel I wanted. But decided to stay anyway. Dead quiet being low season there is really no tourists around, and definitely no western ones.

The hostel was OK, basic and cold, no doors on the toilets. I ended up moving the following morning to  place which was very similar (but with toilet doors) but I ran into Claire who I had hung out with in Kunming, who was unfortunately just leaving but had breakfast with her in the sun before her bus. Once she had gone I had the whole dorm room to myself which was a bit strange to be in a room alone.

(Local women dressed in colourful clothing)

I ended up with 3 nights in Shangri-la and spent a lot of time wandering the streets with monks and women dressed in colourful local clothing. The old town is packed with little cafes and restaurants which I spent a bit of time in. The square in the middle is full during the day of women selling grilled veges on sticks. In the evening the square turns into this strange communal dancing space. I stumbled upon this my first night thinking it was a once off but no, every night speakers are cranked out and for hours people come and go dancing this dance that every one knows in a big circle. There are old women, kids, teenagers, parents with kids on their backs, old men shuffling round, tourists trying to copy the others. Its pretty cool to watch and it just goes on for so long, with everyone knowing what to do even though the dance and music changes all the time. At some point the music ends and people disperse as though nothing ever happened.

(Dancers n the main square)

One of the major sights in town is the big monastery,about an hours walk through town. On the way I walked through the town beyond the old town, which was nice to see the rest of the place. A bit busier, lots of people selling things and shops packed. The wind is freezing and once the sun goes down its deathly cold but when the sun is high its very hot. So a strange combination of beings really hot and really cold all the time. Once I made it to the monastery entrance I took a bus over the hill to the huge complex which built over a hill.

Even from the distance it is beautiful, a massive area with huge temples on the top. At the entrance way are colourful women selling jewellery, prayer beads and local costumes. You can even sit on a real yak and get your photo taken.

Inside I climbed all the way to the top of the stairs, to the temples on top. The place is beautiful and over 300 years old with 600 monks living there. You can’t take photos inside the temples which is unfortunate because inside is the stuff which travel photographers seek out, young monks in crimson robes lighting butter candles in dark corners, old monks with missing teeth and wrinkled faces chanting from ancient scrolls piled in front of them while spinning silver prayer wheels. Teenage monks are sitting in the sun drinking pepsi, their camo clothing under their robes showing through. Old women with wind burnt red cheeks dressed in pink and blue. It’s a very cool place and with only a handful of chinese tourists.

I wandered through the temples with are filled with giant gold Buddhas and prayer flags and down some little side streets before making back down to the front and them back into town.I had brought a ticket for a 9am bus to Dali, so after 3 days of checking out monks, eating brownie and vege’s on sticks I jumped on the 8 hour bus back down south to warmer weather, but now even more determined to get to Tibet proper…next trip I guess.

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Tiger Leaping Gorge

December 1st, 2008

This 2 day trek through a gorge close to Lijang has become one of China’s top things to do. And its not for Chinese tourists either, there is no paved road and music, just a gorge and a path. I took a mini van from the guest house with a Dutch couple, Lois and Sieber and 2 hours later we arrived at the beginning of the walk and proceeded to follow the yellow and red arrows marked along stones.

(Lois taking some photos)

The first days walking took a leisurely 7 or so hours, the first part being mostly up hill as we climbed to the top of the hill along the edge of the gorge, amazing snowy mountains were along the ridge on the opposite side and far below we could see the brown river gushing along. It was really nice weather and a great day for walking, while it was up hill it wasn’t too bad and we soon made it to the top up the difficult ’28 Bends’ part of the track.

(Corn drying in the sun and our lunch break)

Along the way we passed women selling fruit and marijuana (??) and a few guesthouses, one where we stopped and had lunch. It had beautiful views of the mountain and it was just nice to be out of the noise of cities and towns and finally being somewhere in China where there aren’t a million people. There are tiny villages along the way so not totally remote and down below you can still see the road but nice enough.

Finally we arrived at the half way guesthouse which is incidentally, about half way. It was a beautiful stop and after we dumped out bags we sat on the roof to catch the last of the sun and enjoy our snickers bar and a beer. It was really one of the nicest places I’ve stayed in China and it was in the middle of a gorge! Soon after we arrived we were joined by Phil and Tomer from UK and Israel who had walked the day just behind us. There were are a few other people at the hostel as well but us 5 ordered a massive dinner together, had a few beers and played games all night. Down in our dorm room we had to deal with mice running around all night and actually woke to find one had got caught in a trap and dragged itself to the middle of the floor and was still trying to get away…not cool at all.

(Me and Lois relaxing at the half way point)

The second day turned out to not be so hard, we all walked along the ridge for a bit then down to a guesthouse where we could leave our bags then continue right the way down to the bottom of the gorge. The path down was very steep and a little dodgy in parts but we made it to the bottom right on the waters edge, huge rapids and massive boulders, it was really amazing and sad to think that there are plans to damn it and it will all be gone in a few years.

(Our little trekking group)

After spending some time at the bottom we began the long climb back up which was the hardest part, especially once we got in the sun and had the heat as well! The climb up included a very steep and scary ladder attached to the side of a cliff, a little worrying but we all got up and finally made it back to the guesthouse where we had some lunch and then relaxed in the sun waiting for our transport back. I was continuing on to Shangri-la while the others all heading back down to Lijang. So I was dropped off and said goodbye to the others while I waited on the side of the dusty road until a bus pulled up going my way. Jumping on it and avoiding the entire bus pressed against the window staring at me, I went the 3 hours north to Shangri-la, as close to Tibet as I was going to get.

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Kunming to Lijang

November 29th, 2008

Kunming was my 4th Chinese city so I was a bit over it and keen to get into the rural areas quicker. It is a pretty nice city though and if it was the first place I had been I would have really likes it but as it stands I left after a day.

(Kunming, another big Chinese city)

I had met Claire, an Irish chick on the way to the hostel so we hung out for a bit and grabbed some food for lunch and dinner. I slept most of the afternoon feeling a bit sick from too many overnight trains and moving too fast. Despite this I still booked myself into an overnight bus the following evening to Kunming. This gave me a full day to explore the city, which really was quite nice, heaps warmer than any where else and lots of cool alleyways and markets to check out. I had some cheap food for tea then headed to the bus station. I got a bit lost trying t o find it but a policemen walked me all the way there and made sure I got on the right bus, super nice. However I somehow got scammed into paying an extra 40 RMB for ‘luggage tax’ which made me angry as the bus was already really expensive. In China overnight buses are “sleeper buses” so are actually fitted out with beds, tiny beds of course, made for Chinese people so really anyone bigger than me would not fit in at all. Still it was a heap of a lot better than a seat for 10 hours. We arrived early into Lijang at 6am where I got overcharged by a taxi driver then when arriving at the guest house they charged me for half a night stay because I came so early. I was a bit pissed off by this stage after a string of extra costs. But really was too tired to care so just paid the money.

Lijang is one of Yunnan’s top towns for tourists but mostly Chinese tourists who like, well a different sort of tourism than most. You know the only way to describe China is like it really- an Asian country with all its intensity, pushy people, curiosity about foreigners, heaving crowds- has suddenly got the disposable income to put all this into tourism. Which is of course precisely what China has done. Unlike India where people simply stare at you, Chinese people all have cameras and all subtly (or not so subtly) try to take your picture.

Famous sights and places like Lijang are not overrun with American tour groups but masses of Chinse groups dutifully following waving flags held by a tour lead yelling through a megaphone. In China there is no such thing as peace and quiet- there is just simply too many people. Given the amount of people busy-ness is just a fact of life, packed buses, surging train stations and traffic jams are the only way and no one seems that bothered by them. Which is nice to see people getting angry all the time.

Lijang is like this, packed full of Chinese tour groups, relatively few westerners. And Chinses just love the disneyland type tourism with people dressed in native costume and tacky souvenirs and the crowds don’t seem to be a problem. Lijang is home to the Naxi people who are a matriarchal society and still dress in traditional clothes. Its all historical area and really is quite beautiful, just full of people. There are public notices everywhere warning you about everything from “smoking is bad for your health” to “wine and dine healthily and quietly, do not waste food” and my favourite “leave the flowers in the plants and everyone will know what a true gentlemen you are”. Chinese people seem to love being told what to do.

The problem is that there aren’t many street side food vendors so food can be a bit more expensive. I had 2 days and was still feeling a bit wiped out from a cold so didn’t do too much and felt OK about spending a bit more money on some nice food. I was staying in the Panba guesthouse which was a lovely place to relax so did a bit of reading and relaxing. I wandered around in the sun for most of the days, splashing out on scrambled eggs on toast at a very western cafe, and tried a naxi pancake which was sweet and yum. There was though only so much wandering the historical streets you could do and both days ended up back at the hostel reading and chilling out. Lijang is nice, and I think if I was feeling a bit more energetic I would have hired a bike and seen a bit more around the town but it was OK, not amazing, very beautiful but just OK. 2 days was definitely enough then it was time to move on to trek the nearby Tiger Leaping gorge

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