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Back to Soviet days: Moldova

Saturday, September 6th, 2008

Coming in at the number one most random country I have visited, Moldova is about as far off the beaten track you can go in Europe and lives up to its (non) reputation of a strange, soviet country with no tourists. Actually not no tourists, there were 2 others in the ‘hostel’ I was staying at, which was really an old couples front room with a few bunk beds in it.

From travels 08 blogphotos

Our train pulled up to the capital, Chisinau around 9am and I found this dutch backpacker wandering around looking lost. He didn’t have a hostel or anything so followed me as we walked through town to get to this place. We dumped our bags and grabbed some cheap breakfast at a cafe/bar around the corner which amazingly has an english translation on the menu, therefore becoming my new favourite place in the city. I have mentioned before that in Eastern Europe girls tend to dress a bit more….umm…’nice’, well you could say that they dress a lot like prostitutes….and well, Chisinau was a whole new level, at already by 10am there were girls in tiny dresses and high heels wandering the streets.

Chisinau isn’t exactly bursting with tourist sights, actually there is basically no tourism industry at all because there are no tourists. People are really unfriendly and not at all interested in helping you, so doing anything is difficult. Me and dutch #4 (again…forgot the guys name, I am terrible) decided we would try to hire a car for the following day to get out to the country side as it sounded like it would be cheap. We followed the LP map to where there supposedly was a car hire but no, nothing there, so we walked across town to find a couple of places which had no cars left as apparently they were all rented out (to all the imaginary tourists I guess). Seeing as it had taken most of the day to actually get this far we gave up on the car idea and began a bar crawl back towards the hostel stopped on route at lots of bars and drinking beer and liquored coffee…yum.

From travels 08 blogphotos
From travels 08 blogphotos

The town is actually quite nice, you can tell it is poorer than a lot of places in Europe, as a lot more homeless on the streets and things. But the main road is nice, a big wide boulevard with shops, 2 big parks with of course lots of fountains in them. It really is just a bit strange though and feels like you are living in 1992, kind of like going back in time, although with cell phones…lots of cell phones and the unfortunately named ‘Moldcell’

From travels 08 blogphotos
From travels 08 blogphotos

By 8pm after a few too many beers and bottles of wine (Moldova has amazingly good and cheap wine, thats there one big thing) I very sleepy, we headed back to the hostel and picked up the english guy who was staying there and headed out to dinner on a street side cafe where we got followed by an old drunk lady with very little clothing on who wouldn’t leave us alone and kept stroking the guys arms (I still think she was a prostitute but who knows) eventually she passes out on the ground but some how gets hold of more alcohol and we keep having to switch tables to get away from her. Food was pretty terrible, I had some sort of salad drowned in mayo. Although Chisinau is a huge party town I was shattered and we headed back to the hostel after stopping at a bar.

The next day the english took off and dutch#4 went for the day to visit Trandsinester, the country that doesn’t exist, they have tried to separate from Moldova but no-one will recognize them, Russia gives them money and they are still very much communist with their own border guards and currency. Basically the fun of going is the crazy border situation to try and get away with not paying too much bribe money. I figured I have had enough border fun in the Middle East so gave it the chop to spend the day catching up on internet stuff and sitting in nice cafes. I did try to visit a museum but it was closed that day. By the evening I was alone in the hostel with no book to read, I went for a bit of a wander around the town then headed back to bed. There are some great wineries close to the city but to get to them for the day is just so difficult with transport and the most unhelpful people ever. So I actually would like to come back and do some tours around these amazing wineries which have huge underground networks of cellars. To make up for not visiting I brought a couple of bottles which are only about 2 euros each, so am saving them till I meet up with the boys.

From travels 08 blogphotos

An amazingly beautiful church we stumbled upon

From travels 08 blogphotos

Soviet style buildings
Waking up the next morning I was a bit like what the hell am I doing in this country, I was feeling a bit sorry for myself and not excited about the 20hour train journey ahead of me (which the LP said was only 8hours!). I packed my bag and found it was pouring with rain outside. I went to the supermarket with spectacularly rude staff and managed to get some food before trying to change the last of my money and having the guy try to rip me off, untill I asked for a receipt and then he decided to actually give me the rest of my money. Then I tried to catch a tram to the train station which ended up in the middle of nowhere with the ticket guy ignoring me and my attempts at asking wehre the train station was. At one point I tried to get off so I could go back into town but he was like “no no no, train, da” so I stayed on to find myself in some bus park in the middle of nowhere and the ticket guy just took off and left me there! I was worried about issing the train which only leaves every second day and stranded in the middle of nowhere with people literally just ignoring me. Eventually someone was nice and took me to where I could get a taxi and I made it to the station where I got my ticket (cheaper than I thought) brought more junk food for the train and got on in time for he long journey to the Ukraine. A very frustrating morning and I was well over it and wanting to get out of this crazy country! thats what happens when you get ‘off the beaten track’ its just frustrating! haha…but good experience.

thats not yoghurt

Thursday, September 4th, 2008

So like I mentioned before Dracula is based on some guy called Vlad who would impale people, still he’s the closest thing to the Dracula we know so of course towns connected to him capitalize on the Dracula thing, a lot.

So being the tourists that we are, we headed of to Sighisoara to Vlad’s birth place to check it out. Again it was me and Pete joined by Martin (Dutch guy #3) but not #1 and 2 as they were still in bed. After spending an hour or so arguing with them about if they actually wanted to come or not, we finally got to the train station and caught the 2 hour train and I managed to book my next train ticket for the following day to Chisinau.

So Sighisoara…a nice town, actually a really beautiful little spot with an old town on a hill with lots of nice churches and old buildings.

From random blog photos

The centre was a little bit touristy but not so bad. It was all original building from back in the day and we checked out the tiny torture museum and read about how they would torture and hang people, then we past the main square where they would burn witches….pleasant. Its seems all so crazy that that sort of stuff actually happened. the clock tower was really beautiful and the whole place seemed authentically old (because it is I guess!).

From random blog photos

For lunch we headed away from the old town to track down a little shop selling food, we got some bread,cheese and yoghurt. My yoghurt was apricot, the boys got plain. However when they opened it, it looked remarkably unlike yoghurt and much more like sour cream….because it was….oh the joys of not speaking the language. My yoghurt was good, Pete was sad. The best thing is how the lady just let us buy 2 tubs of sour cream when clearly we were trying to get yoghurt. Oh well.

We also climbed up to a church and saw an old cemetery and some views across the valley then we tracked down Vlad’s statue and brought vampire teeth to get our photo with it. We thought we were hilarious with our plastic vampire teeth made for children, not sure other people walking past thought it was quite so funny.

From random blog photos

We caught a late train home as it was much cheaper and hung out in the park for a bit playing on Disney ‘princess’ cards we picked up in the market. The train back to Brasov was empty and half way started cranking up music realy loud…it was a bit strange in this old train with no one around with really loud music, some sort of communist style and other stuff like ‘Cotton Eye Joe”…it was bizarre.

Back home we cooked up..PASTA! yep so creative and headed to bed.

The next day was my last before heading to Chisninau at 4pm, me and Pete were going to go check out Bran castle, the real Dracula castle but left it a bit late so ended up chopping it in favour of walking through the bear infested woods up to the Brasov sign in the hills.

From random blog photos

We had a late lunch then it was time to leave. I had to take a train back to Bucharest then change onto my overnight soviet era train to Chisinau, needless to say I didnt see any other tourists. the train was great, it was 4 berth cabis with sheets with roses that said ‘I love you’ and carpited floors and frilley curtins, excellent.

From random blog photos

So began my long, and hot journey into Moldova, probably the most random country I have visited yet

our unsuccessful castle visit

Tuesday, September 2nd, 2008
Brasov is the perfect place for day trips around transylvania so a few us headed out for the day to Sinaia to visit the Peles castle that was there. I was with Pete who is an english guy spending 2 ... [Continue reading this entry]