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A Huge Emotion Sandwich

Monday, April 16th, 2007

The following entry is a brief summary of a period of about 12 days. Day one and 12 involved crying, and sandwiched in between was Laughing, Cracking Up, and a fresh slice of I Just Peed a Little.

The trusty guidebook recommended reserving train tickets out of Bangkok at least a week in advance. We basically crumpled up the advice and tossed it in the garbage, showing up at the train station to purchase tix 2 days before our departure. This was a grave error in judgment. A week before the advent of Thai New Year celebrations, our only option was to book tickets in third class…for the overnight journey.

We figured that hey, it couldn’t be that bad. Our confidence slowly eroded by the reactions of people we told. Travelers laughed at us and wished us luck, Thai people gave us funny looks and retorted “Why you go third class?”. We boarded the train and were met by the same confused looks. Seating in third class is grim…basically two straight-back benches facing each other designed for 6 passengers. Six short passengers. We crammed our bags on and settled in, with both our hips and knees in constant contact with someone else’s hips and knees. This arrangement lasted approximately 10 minutes, and JR discovered the food & beverage car, where we hung out sipping Singha beers with a techno-banger German guy who kept recommending we try LSD and a few male employees who launched a fashion show with a sarong down the catwalk/train car aisle. The fun & games ended at midnight and we returned to our cramped uncomfortable hot seating arrangement for another six and a half hours of hell. Nine hours later, the train was broken down 5 miles from our final destination. The woman directly across from me (whose legs were constantly touching my legs) began a very high-pitched speech at around 3am… and was still going strong. (Literally she didn’t take a breath for over 6 hours) I was imagining ways to gag her, and finally resorted to saying “STOP TALKING. PLEASE STOP. CEASE. QUIT.” On the verge of a complete possibly violent breakdown, we decided we had to get the heck off the train immediately. [read on]

Wild On Nepal

Friday, March 30th, 2007

The Lonely Planet Nepal book describes the Bhoti Kosi river as “the best two day rafting trip in the world…you will be paralyzed with fear” (or something like that…I don’t have the book on me at the moment). Perfect for us, considering the closest thing to white water in our handbag of adventure sports experience is Six Flags Hurricane Harbor. So we signed up with our UK partners in crime from the Andamans, Bev & Dan. We left Kathmandu in the wee hours and after whip lashing bus ride arrived at the river. The first day was practice. Our guide Laxmon briefed us on the rafting commands and we set off. The rapids were mainly class 2 and 3, exciting but not enough to tap into adrenaline reserves. In life vests & helmets Laxmon had us all jump in the ice cold river…another practice session in case day 2’s unforgiving river tossed anyone overboard.

Day two was a completely different river. Pick up a thesaurus and look up the words ‘insane’, ‘panic’ and ‘oops I crapped my pants’ and this will paint an accurate picture. In other words I loved it, and so did Beard Man Beshore. Class 4-plus rapids involve a lot of huge boulders that our raft kept getting stuck on. Laxmon would yell “Jump Left!” and we’d all slide over to the left side of the raft and bounce up & down. The height of the fury occured when our raft was banked sideways on a rock in the middle of a mad waterfalling rapid. With the left side stuck, water started filling the boat from the right side. Laxmon, our super laid back Nepali guide for the first time flashed a look of “Oh shit” in his eyes. “OUT OF THE BOAT, EVERYBODY OUT!” So here we are, 7 of us plus Laxmon balancing on a slippery slime covered boulder the size of the front hood of a VW Beetle. The boulder wasn’t level, and there was a bit of water streaming over it. He then instructed us all to pull the ropes of the raft in a heave-ho motion, to break it free. The water was rushing so loudly that it was difficult to even hear his Nepali-accented English commands, so everyone took to repeating his every word in a full volume shout. (the sort of shouts that Mom’s use when their trying to round up children for dinner) We were all balancing on the shaky slippery rock, trying not to bump eachother in the least bit. One tap of the shoulder would have sent me flying off the rock, consequently taking others down with me. The class-4 rapids down river was riddled with huge rocks, falling off our rock meant inevitable panic and pain. After tugging at the raft to no avail, one of our two safety patrol kayaker assistants appeared on the left hand bank of the river and tossed the rope. He tugged the raft free and we all dove off the river rock back into the raft.

This situation went down exactly 14 seconds after I saved JR from going overboard. I should rephrase, my nose saved him. He came flying accross the raft and assaulted my face with his helmet…I immediatly let go of the ropes and held my nose waiting for blood to gush. I was about to really have a good cry, the slow motion kind where the tears precede any peep of a whimper. JR interrupted my emotional commercial to remind me that we were still crashing through whitewater with a shout “Brooke frigging hold on!” Now I’m sporting a slightly swollen schnoz, but no bruising.

Oh man. It was seriously intense, but a heck of a good time.

After spending a few more days in Kathmandu, we’ve now just arrived in Bangkok. Tune in for further weirdness.

Where the Wild Things Are

Monday, March 26th, 2007
Appropriatly, we reunited with our wild friends Bev & Dan at Chitwan National Park, Nepal's oldest national park at the foot of the Himalayas. Our package trip included canoeing through the park, a guided jungle hike, visit to the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trekking in Nepal

Saturday, March 17th, 2007
After 2 hours of writing, the power failed and I lost everything. (welcome to Nepal) Here is a brief synopsis of what I had...along with the photos: After spending a few days in Kathmandu relishing in cuisine choices and the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oh Calcutta!

Monday, March 5th, 2007
When traveling to a city for the first time, everyone has a preconceived perception of what they expect to find. People expect Paris to be romantic and possess an almost pastel quality, New York you assume will be fast ... [Continue reading this entry]

Andaman Islands

Friday, March 2nd, 2007
Contrary to popular belief, we are still alive. I'm not sure if anyone actually reads this blog besides for our mothers and the occasional bored CH Robinson employee...but if there are avid readers out there I do apologize for ... [Continue reading this entry]

Indian Road Trip: Munnar & Fort Cochin

Friday, March 2nd, 2007
Roadtrip We hitched a ride from Kodaikanal to Munnar with 3 other Indian couples. A bit of a tight squeeze, but a great chance for conversation. We of course had to lie and say ... [Continue reading this entry]

News from afar…

Friday, February 23rd, 2007
Greetings fans of Brooke and JR. This is a courtesy update from Brooke's mom, for any of you that are following their adventures and log in, only to find no update. Not to worry. Brooke sent me ... [Continue reading this entry]

India Photos: Round 1

Monday, February 12th, 2007