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Bangkok: The Grit and the Glamour

Wednesday, September 19th, 2007

Bangkok isn’t charming. Or quaint. Or cute. Tree-lined boulevards and outdoor cafes translate to busted-up sidewalks and streetfood stands with red plastic chairs. But yet, JR and I are both border-line obsessed with this city.

Its a city “trying” to shed its image for debauchery, that has an inferiority complex. Perhaps some of the best malls, cinemas, restuarants, and hotels in the world–through the grit and the dirty underbelly lies some serious glam.

During our six months we met so many great people, made a few really good friends and spent our free time discovering the nooks and crannies where the charm of BKK exists. I can’t imagine how I’ll survive without som tom, Longcheu’s bean curd or mango sticky rice…but I guess I’ll manage. And part of the fun of living in Bangkok is complaining about it. Its a national pasttime-bitching-about traffic, pollution, corruption, the fat white male sex tourists, etc. Its kind of fun, everyone reveling in misery together. It creates a sense of solidarity.

Leaving Bangkok to continue on traveling was not easy. Typically the days leading up to a big trip I feel like an eight-year old on Christmas Eve; but prying myself out of this city was a chore.

We might be back.

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Posted in Thailand, Travel | 1 Comment »

An Old, Albeit Random Post

Sunday, September 16th, 2007

Everyday at 6pm, the Thai royal anthem is broadcast throughout every Skytrain and Metro station. And everyday at 6pm, Bangkok comes to a halt. I was walking through the turnstyle yesterday at 6, the song came on, and everyone froze. It was as if someone had hit the pause button. Talking ceased. Walking ceased. Cell phones stopped ringing. It felt like a musical come to life, choreographed and precise.

And then the song ended, and the walking, yapping, and cell-phoning continued. Does that moment cause people to pause, slow down, and relax? Or is it another programmed part of the day, one that earns no further mind-activity than applying deodorant? I’m not sure if this moment of National solitude would fly in the US. Asking someone in an El station in Chicago to stop for a moment for the National Anthem might get you punched in the face, or at least a dirty look and an expletive. (or a “F*#! George Bush man”, which is a valiant point)

But Thailand is full of idiosyncrasies that wouldn’t fly in the US. A few weeks ago I saw a man walking down the street selling sponges. Not Elaine-sponges, just the regular kitchen variety. The odd thing was, he was carrying two enormous garbage bags full of them, in the event a customer was interested in buying 6,000 sponges. At first I didn’t even think twice, then I realized, “Wait. That is freaking bizarre.” Imagine walking down the street in Anytown USA with 6,000 sponges in tow.

The other night an 80-year old man at McDonalds struck up a conversation and asked for our phone number so we can go out for dinner. When is the last time an 80-year old scored your digits amidst quarterpounders and McChickens?

I’m trying to think of other weird things. Hmm. Well I just hung up the phone with a tarot card reader specializing in predicting the futures of gay men, that’s sorta weird. And I ate a delicious dish today which had fermented pork as an ingredient.

p.s. I wrote this post a month ago…but never clicked publish. Oops. More updates to follow soon…we’re leaving Bangkok on a jet plane in 27 minutes…tear. Tear.

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To Whom it May Concern:

Monday, July 16th, 2007
To whom it may concern: Several weeks ago, I put a request in for an update on your "blog". I was assured that an update was pending and that everything would be "fine". Unfortunately, this was not the case, and you seem ... [Continue reading this entry]

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Workin’ Class Bangkokians

Tuesday, June 12th, 2007
After some offensive emails regarding my recent writing hiatus, perhaps its time to indulge readers in another sexy and riveting tale. Except, we haven’t been up to much. We’ve again extended our stay in Bangkok…a week turned into ... [Continue reading this entry]

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Home Sweet Bangkok

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007
Last night we went to an Irish pub in our neighborhood. To my left was an impeccably dressed and red-lip-sticked Thai woman in her late fifties. She was a prostitute. To JR's right was an overweight American ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Thailand, Travel | 5 Comments »

A Huge Emotion Sandwich

Monday, April 16th, 2007
The following entry is a brief summary of a period of about 12 days. Day one and 12 involved crying, and sandwiched in between was Laughing, Cracking Up, and a fresh slice of I Just Peed a Little.
The trusty ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Thailand, Travel | 5 Comments »